Vance Wood
Lord Mugo
Not the point of the thread
Sorry Dave I didn't mean to make you angry or defensive. I understand your purpose is to inform and educate people so they can make informed choices.
Not the point of the thread
I know people sometimes water their trees by putting wicks into water to soak it up. But some of us put wicks in the bottom of our pots for the opposite purpose. Letting the ends of the wick hang out in the air to dry pulls the water out like a siphon. It really works. I have done a side by side comparison using straight turface in clear plastic saucers about two inches deep. In about a half an hour after soaking by submerging, the saucer with the wick had no visible water on the bottom whereas in the saucer without the wick the water persisted for several hours.
Got it - I was thinking the other way round. I don't think I've ever seen this and I know I've never tried it.
But the answer is yes. I think that doing what you suggest will lower the water saturations proximal to the wick. I can imagine that there might be problems keeping the saturations uniform, and I have no idea to what distance from the wick saturations will be affected, nor do I know how low the saturations will go in the soil right next to the wick - probably all the way to hygroscopic. But I think the question was: Will a wick lower saturations? I think the answer is: Used this way, probably yes.
Scott
Sorry Dave I didn't mean to make you angry or defensive. I understand your purpose is to inform and educate people so they can make informed choices.
Thanks Scott.
I think (not 100% sure) that the water saturation will even out...not instant, but fast enough. That water table should go down evenly.
No, I should not have titled the thread as such. Not meant to start a turface war, this would happen with the same with any other medium.
Thats the most contradictory paragraph I have ever read.
I used turface for several years in different types of mixes. Turface is cheap, so why not ?
Ever since Michael Hagedorn wrote that article, it seems the anti-turface floodgates have been opened.
You do mention an interesting and potentially important point. Other than the size, the one concern I have with turface is that it is not manufactured as a soil component. It is manufactured as a field additive to soak up moisture, etc. So I do wonder about the batch to batch variability. BonsaiJack recently posted an analysis which showed turface to have a pH of 4.something. How representative is that...no idea. But perhaps some of the problems people have had with turface are due to variations in batch quality.
Then again, I keep wondering about those who have been using it for decades with no problems...and I keep coming to the same conclusion: it's the user who is causing the problems. Learn what turface does, learn how to handle it (what to mix it with, how to water) and you should be able to use it. Will it give "maximum" or "optimal" results? I don't know. But I've seen plenty of people whose plants are more than "just alive" in turface to be terribly concerned.
BTW, dry stall and floor dry are also not produced for soil components, so the same concerns about batch to batch quality apply there.
Chris
Ever since Michael Hagedorn wrote that article, it seems the anti-turface floodgates have been opened.
You do mention an interesting and potentially important point. Other than the size, the one concern I have with turface is that it is not manufactured as a soil component. It is manufactured as a field additive to soak up moisture, etc. So I do wonder about the batch to batch variability. BonsaiJack recently posted an analysis which showed turface to have a pH of 4.something. How representative is that...no idea. But perhaps some of the problems people have had with turface are due to variations in batch quality.
Then again, I keep wondering about those who have been using it for decades with no problems...and I keep coming to the same conclusion: it's the user who is causing the problems. Learn what turface does, learn how to handle it (what to mix it with, how to water) and you should be able to use it. Will it give "maximum" or "optimal" results? I don't know. But I've seen plenty of people whose plants are more than "just alive" in turface to be terribly concerned.
BTW, dry stall and floor dry are also not produced for soil components, so the same concerns about batch to batch quality apply there.
Chris
One of my arguments against turface is that its so hard to use properly.
I do not find that as true. Simple amendment is all I did. Most of my first collected trees are 70% Turface and 30% bark...all are doing great.
The 2 that I had problems have 95% Turface 5% sphagnum. The rest in various mixes but mostly Turface are doing fine.
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Edit. I'll take that back...most of my first collected trees are in OIL DRI!!! They are however also thriving but soil will be replaced with Turface mix soon.
Ever since Michael Hagedorn wrote that article, it seems the anti-turface floodgates have been opened.
Will it give "maximum" or "optimal" results? I don't know. But I've seen plenty of people whose plants are more than "just alive" in turface to be terribly concerned.
Chris
I've been mixing turface mvp with crushed granite and pine bark- and my trees are quite healthy - as long as I'm getting results, I am going to keep on using it, plain and simple.
You and many others!
I've been around the bonsai forums now for over 5 years, and I really have to say that I don't remember seeing many people (if any?) recommending planting in straight turface. I'm sure there are some out there, but it seems to be a small minority.
Again, the thread is not specifically about turface. It is more about what happens when you use a small ingredient in a mix that is made up of larger ingredients. Markyscott explained it perfectly. It has nothing to do with turface, except for its size. Nobody here is saying don't use turface. Nobody here is anti-turface. I was just documenting what happens in particular types of mixes. The larger Turface performed just fine.