Whats Going on in Smoke's Backyard?

Impresive and inspiring .

Have you noticed any "differecies" between the mother tree and the grafted branches from the donor tree? Different timing of budding, autumn colour changing , leaf size etc?

Thank you.
 
Impresive and inspiring .

Have you noticed any "differecies" between the mother tree and the grafted branches from the donor tree? Different timing of budding, autumn colour changing , leaf size etc?

Thank you.
Nope. Try to use cuttings from the same trees for grafting purposes. I see no differences between plants I bought from central coast to plants grown here or tridents purchased in Sacramento.
 
Hey Al, do you defoliate any of your maples? If so, what does your schedule look like?
Yes. I defoliate in sections. Back one week then the front the next week. Or, side to side. or, top to bottom. Just depends how the tree looks and what shape it's in.

Each year is different based on how the spring push treats me. I have weather differences here like @abqjoe that require special attention for fungus. Anthracnose. If it sets in it will set the tree back for that season and I do not defoliate at all. Just small scissor work to keep the shape. This year I was judicious about the fungicide and really kept on top of it since we had record breaking amounts of rain, and still do. Believe it or not, last Thursday we got 2 inches in 30 minutes, which is an unbelievable amount of rain for April. More for this week as well.

I had absolutely no fungus this year. All pristine leaves. Makes a big difference when Fall color comes around.

As far as timing, if everything is good as it is this year, April, and July for me. That's it. Never more than twice and after the defol in July its just scissor work to keep in shape.
 
I picked up a maple when I was at Ed Clark's and the thing budded out like a mop in late February. Normally I would leave it for a year to get established, but it is so strong I think I may do one defoliation in April. I am going to start fertilizing this weekend and my plan was to defoliate next weekend and then just leave it for the balance of the summer. It will be under shade cloth the entire year.

We have had a lot of problems with juniper tip blight down here. I have not been too affected, but some of the guys in the study group and some of the nurseries have been hammered. When I spray my citrus trees during the winter and rainy season, I normally spray my bonsai, however this year I have stepped up the fungicide big time. I am doing a rotation of Heritage, Clearys 3336, and Mancozeb. The Clearys is a systemic and this is the first time I will have ever used it. So much rain. My citrus look great but I am seeing a lot of fungus on my hibiscus which I did not spray.
 
Yes. I defoliate in sections. Back one week then the front the next week. Or, side to side. or, top to bottom. Just depends how the tree looks and what shape it's in.
I do it differently here, in my climate. I never defoliate only part of a tree. I defoliate 100% with exception of tiny leaves just opening. If I don't do 100%, then I defoliate evenly on all branches. Why? My experience, here in my climate, has shown that defoliating only a single branch can weaken it and cause strange or limited or no growth. There are many factors that influence what occurs, so its not a one size fits all theory. For instance if its a bottom branch the tree may send more energy to the apex and damage or drop the bottom branch if only that bottom branch is defoliated. Again, many factors are at work. But for me, here, the general rule on tridents is 100% or uniform balance of energy defoliation.
Timing is usually right after the July semi-dormancy phase when the trees start to grow again and the existing leaves are weather-beaten. Then you get a new flush of growth with good, strong leaves that hold well into fall and make for a good show then.

Buergeranum are stronger than palmatum. So, its even more important, here, with respect to palmatum.
 
Yes. I defoliate in sections. Back one week then the front the next week. Or, side to side. or, top to bottom. Just depends how the tree looks and what shape it's in.

Each year is different based on how the spring push treats me. I have weather differences here like @abqjoe that require special attention for fungus. Anthracnose. If it sets in it will set the tree back for that season and I do not defoliate at all. Just small scissor work to keep the shape. This year I was judicious about the fungicide and really kept on top of it since we had record breaking amounts of rain, and still do. Believe it or not, last Thursday we got 2 inches in 30 minutes, which is an unbelievable amount of rain for April. More for this week as well.

I had absolutely no fungus this year. All pristine leaves. Makes a big difference when Fall color comes around.

As far as timing, if everything is good as it is this year, April, and July for me. That's it. Never more than twice and after the defol in July its just scissor work to keep in shape.
You don't defoliate the damaged leaves of one if it shows signs of the fungus? Or...of the ones healthy? Just curious...
 
Thank you both for your insight. I don't mean to hijack Smoke's thread. And yes, it is a palmatum.
I have one that dried a bit and lost a lot of leaves. It never reopened, it didn't die either.

Something similar happened to Sergio, let me see if I can find the thread but it was a tree going to nationals and was partly defoliated and didn't push new leaves.
 
I have one that dried a bit and lost a lot of leaves. It never reopened, it didn't die either.

Something similar happened to Sergio, let me see if I can find the thread but it was a tree going to nationals and was partly defoliated and didn't push new leaves.
Timing and environment are significant factors. Sometimes, if I defoliate too late, I get buds and no new leaves until the following season. Once, I defoliated a really old and nice trident (read: very expensive) the first week of August, and it set buds but didn't leaf out until the following Spring. The tree was fine, but I was so tightly wound I could have sat on the tip of a nail with no penetration. But those are the lessons you remember.
 
Timing and environment are significant factors. Sometimes, if I defoliate too late, I get buds and no new leaves until the following season. Once, I defoliated a really old and nice trident (read: very expensive) the first week of August, and it set buds but didn't leaf out until the following Spring. The tree was fine, but I was so tightly wound I could have sat on the tip of a nail with no penetration. But those are the lessons you remember.
same here... except of the expensive part hahah
 
We're about due for a Mr. Hanky update....

Well...had some time tonight before dinner to look at a couple new projects.

Looked at this new ficus....didn't want to work on that...
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Looked at this juniper....didn't want to work on that.....
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Looked at this Itoigawa.... want to work on that!
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First thing...cut off sacrifice branch. Fat enough!
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I work in reverse when styling a new plant. I cut off all the crap I know I won't use. Evaluate whats left and then remove again. large branch I won't use. Cut it or jin it? always jin!
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Was the sacrifice branch a root that you trained out? I guess I'm asking how did you get it that far out? I usually only see that with buried nursery junipers. But I like how you placed it, less scarring on the trunk at removal or less to Jin.
 
Was the sacrifice branch a root that you trained out? I guess I'm asking how did you get it that far out? I usually only see that with buried nursery junipers. But I like how you placed it, less scarring on the trunk at removal or less to Jin.
Don't know, didn't grow it. Ed is a firm believer in sacrifice branches to gain thickness. He is a talented fellow when it comes to growing these things.

I just cut it off....
 
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