Extended season starting trees indoors

[Srt8madness]

@cmeg1 Thanks to you I have some JBP that are rooted in stonewool cubes! Feels like they took a while but definitely growing

 

[cmeg1]

Zelkova 2nd attempt

These are way cool,but just need to get the bole of the little trees longer.
I have found to germinate in a heated, domed tray just indirectly under a north or slight east window on the floor the best method.
These are stretching and I will take it to the max……they are quite vulnetable at this stage and I really have to coddle them to a more lignified state after they stretch.
Excited for these though and plan a huge crop later this season through winter.

I need these trunks to be more like 5-7” tall at the bole…….not barely 2” like the previous attempt in the last pic.

 

[cmeg1]

@cmeg1 Thanks to you I have some JBP that are rooted in stonewool cubes! Feels like they took a while but definitely growing

Good…..just practice…..co2 and correct environment can really supercharge everything!!!

 

[cmeg1]

Zelkova seedling stretching…update

So here we are a few days later and the elongating stems are going over 4”…..honestly 5-7” will suffice……

I planted another batch since these look to be a good initial setup for germination.

 

[tangledtanuki]

This stretching you're controlling just with the lights? Is is the spectrum or also something to do with the distance from the saplings

 

[cmeg1]

This stretching you're controlling just with the lights? Is is the spectrum or also something to do with the distance from the saplings

Zelkova Brooms need to sprout in very week light or some shade or else the trunk will only be an inch tall and not proportional to a Broom style design.
I found in a dome under a north or shaded window the best……like indirectly away on the floor or something or light through some blinds or something.

 

[cmeg1]

ok I found the affordable alternative for my outdoor fascility!!!

I will just build it myself thanks to these nice plans I bought.
It will be a 6x12 and I will Put an 4x 8 ebb and flow table in it..plenty room!

 

[ShadyStump]

ok I found the affordable alternative for my outdoor fascility!!!

I will just build it myself thanks to these nice plans I bought.
It will be a 6x12 and I will Put an 4x 8 ebb and flow table in it..plenty room!View attachment 432593View attachment 432594

Good luck!

 

[cmeg1]

BOTH VARIETIES OF KOREAN HORNBEAM AND ALSO JAPANESE LARCH AND TRIDENT MAPLE.


I will have these for sale next season.They will grow this autumn through Winter to spring 2023!!!
Should be nice size as I will have room for heighth extension in the new co2 grow fascility I’m building.
Here are coreana and regular turczninowii ( gets a more salmon color and larger leaf with a more open habit).
Larch will be fun too as I hope to create seedling cuttings for aa more stockier and clump style effect.
Trident maple also!!!

 

[cmeg1]

2nd grow of the Zelkova Brooms have much better length to them.

I’ll make at least 3 flats of these….over 200!
These are much longer around 5”.( see the seedling).
Will let set and grow very slowly at first for maximum budding on the first shoots in low light.
Hopefully be ready for sale by Mid Autumn.
They will be fed a Motherplant formula and will air-layer quite easily by a ring bark.
I did that with the one below….way too short though.I also would not use any hormone as it lumps up the bark irregularly.

 

[win320]

@cmeg1

This one by the looks of leaf : Carpinus Japonica? [the one you posted in your post #929]
Believe this pic is from Schumacher site but I strongly believe it is a wrong pic



Pic below is from RHS (Royal Horticulture Society) Website Carpinus turczaninowii
https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/21840/turczaninow-hornbeam/details

 

[namnhi]

Do you not selling trees on ebay anymore? Haven't seen new posting since I bought these last year. Looks like you have lots of materials since then

 

[cmeg1]

Do you not selling trees on ebay anymore? Haven't seen new posting since I bought these last year. Looks like you have lots of materials since then

View attachment 435475

Thanks….take a look at cmbonsai thread……..a few more weeks…..I want them big and strong and densly rooted.

much appreciated

 

[cmeg1]

@cmeg1

This one by the looks of leaf : Carpinus Japonica? [the one you posted in your post #929]
Believe this pic is from Schumacher site but I strongly believe it is a wrong pic
View attachment 435474


Pic below is from RHS (Royal Horticulture Society) Website Carpinus turczaninowii
https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/21840/turczaninow-hornbeam/details


View attachment 435476

Oh I see……..there is definately a differance between coriana and the regular……..the regular gets a more open habit and salmon leaves while the coreana gets a tri colored fall leaf and much tighter growth……..I hope the listings are right and both varieties. We’ll see…….

 

[win320]

Oh I see……..there is definately a differance between coriana and the regular……..the regular gets a more open habit and salmon leaves while the coreana gets a tri colored fall leaf and much tighter growth……..I hope the listings are right and both varieties. We’ll see…….

Thanks Curtis (@cmeg1 ).
I absolutely agree that both Carpinus Coreana and Carpinus Turczaninowii have different growth habits, leaves, internodes and autumn leaf color.
It is just that the pic you posted of Carpinus Turczaninowii was not looking right.
I am creating a small article on the differences of the two with a botanist focussing on Carpinus's worldwide. I will keep you posted along with pics.

Carpinus Coreana is one of the best species for deciduous bonsai. I have personally seen a shohin size bonsai with leaf reduction to 1/2 inch to 1/4 inch. I will try to click pic and share.

 

[cmeg1]

Thanks Curtis (@cmeg1 ).
I absolutely agree that both Carpinus Coreana and Carpinus Turczaninowii have different growth habits, leaves, internodes and autumn leaf color.
It is just that the pic you posted of Carpinus Turczaninowii was not looking right.
I am creating a small article on the differences of the two with a botanist focussing on Carpinus's worldwide. I will keep you posted along with pics.

Carpinus Coreana is one of the best species for deciduous bonsai. I have personally seen a shohin size bonsai with leaf reduction to 1/2 inch to 1/4 inch. I will try to click pic and share.

Cool thanks!

 

[cmeg1]

HIGH HOPES FOR EUONYMOUS ALATUS CUTTINGS!!!

I figured I would give these a try.My seeds did not germinate yet……perhaps normal,not sure.

Did about 70 cuttings with about 5 seconds in some dip & grow @ 10x strength placed into Grodan AOK starter cubes in a smart tray suspended over 1/2” of water for humidity and thermostar set at 85f.
I would love to get a bunch of these going.Although slow growing,would be superp starters if they get a 1/2-3/4” trunk and some shaping and twigs.Especially to incorporate co2 fertilization if possible……or the good ole’ fashion way outdoors……nice and hardy growers aside from perhaps a few black aphids for a short while in spring on the soft tips.They are not soft for very long though.
I will not even disturb these for 10 days and hopefully the extra high heat will push some roots.Extra heat is feasable with stonewool being so steril and suspended off the bottom out of the water……can root a week or so quicker this way.

 

[Deleted member 32750]

5:2 ratio of fulvic acid/kelp powders….or simply 1/8tsp fulvic:::1/16 tsp kelp powders.

This ratio is more perfected in powders where the actual study is more closely replicated that was done by Virginia Tech for ten years showing this ratio to work 50% better than either product on its own.

a simpme soray once or twice a week is highly effective for backbudding……it has been discovered the fulvic acid will carry the kelp directly into the cell of the soft plant tissue in as little as 4 hrs.

My new plan this season is extended whole plant dunking for up to 4 hrs,but usually just 2 or so……really absorbing especcially into waxy pine leaves..
No more than once a week or it will fry the plants as the cytokinesis does create heat as a byproduct and will burn needles and leaves.
Kelp can be put on plant roots in the media drench every watering though Daily is fine.

Can you get fulvic and kelp powder from NPK technologies or kalix, their parent company which is wholesale same company.

Also one 16th teaspoon of yucca powder per 5 gallons is very very good especially when spraying to surfect the water molecule and spread onto the leaves evenly ,if Dunking it’s not totally necessary but that small amount of Yucca does strengthen the plant in desert growing ways this is all still experimental though…… The Yucca powder is also a very mild fungicide which is another reason to add it if you’re not a fan of the chemicals as I am indoors hence the reason I stay away from a lot of specific varieties I just don’t like spraying the damn things

I'm assuming the ratio is 1/8 tsp: 1/16 tsp per gallon of water?

Also do you have any tips on supplementing plants with amino acids and calcium as far as how often and what dose?

 

[cmeg1]

I'm assuming the ratio is 1/8 tsp: 1/16 tsp per gallon of water?

Also do you have any tips on supplementing plants with amino acids and calcium as far as how often and what dose?

Yes 1/8th tsp full up /1/16th tsp kelp powders and a tiny bit of yucca powder for a surfectant to break down the water droplets on waxy type leaves.
I would only use NPK brand powders or the parent company KALIX.These companies are owned by Harley Smith( some say the king of hydro).
He is largely the teacher of this Dutch Hydro method and is my teacher from his video series.
He apparently was the first pioneer to bring this bio-fungicide tech to America from the German scientists who in collaberation with Dutch growers invented these safer non chemical fungicide approaches………..which simply put is
THE EXTRA 1000 TIMES MORE CALCIUM UPTAKE.
To make the calcium pectate in plant cells and not water( which is very vulneranle to protruding tubules of greymold spores that land on plant leaves).

So the products…….On the cheap!!!

Peferably ro water or a quality water for the root zone……on leaves The same or a distilled or RO.

ROOTS::::
CALMAG
AMINO

LEAVES::::
Fullup
Kelp
Yucca

NO MORE THAN ON E A WEEK ON LEAVES OR THEY WILL BURN………..roots are fine with every watering.

NO NPK ON LEAVES AT ALL!!!

Calmag can be added to any fertilizer……..if not using RO or a Pure water….perhaps half strength………………adds more available calcium.

Only use his brands as they are more pure I believe…….no hidden sea salts………and I must admit he shares this freely……aside for the cost of the course……..he has done great research though…..he deserves it.

 

[Deleted member 32750]

Yes 1/8th tsp full up /1/16th tsp kelp powders and a tiny bit of yucca powder for a surfectant to break down the water droplets on waxy type leaves.
I would only use NPK brand powders or the parent company KALIX.These companies are owned by Harley Smith( some say the king of hydro).
He is largely the teacher of this Dutch Hydro method and is my teacher from his video series.
He apparently was the first pioneer to bring this bio-fungicide tech to America from the German scientists who in collaberation with Dutch growers invented these safer non chemical fungicide approaches………..which simply put is
THE EXTRA 1000 TIMES MORE CALCIUM UPTAKE.
To make the calcium pectate in plant cells and not water( which is very vulneranle to protruding tubules of greymold spores that land on plant leaves).

So the products…….On the cheap!!!

Peferably ro water or a quality water for the root zone……on leaves The same or a distilled or RO.

ROOTS::::
CALMAG
AMINO

LEAVES::::
Fullup
Kelp
Yucca

NO MORE THAN ON E A WEEK ON LEAVES OR THEY WILL BURN………..roots are fine with every watering.

NO NPK ON LEAVES AT ALL!!!

Calmag can be added to any fertilizer……..if not using RO or a Pure water….perhaps half strength………………adds more available calcium.

Only use his brands as they are more pure I believe…….no hidden sea salts………and I must admit he shares this freely……aside for the cost of the course……..he has done great research though…..he deserves it.
View attachment 439764View attachment 439766View attachment 439767View attachment 439768View attachment 439769

Thank you for the detailed response. I recently bought Harley’s master grower course and have been going down the biostimulant rabbit hole.

Do you think it would be effective to Foliar feed with 5:2 fulvic kelp every other week and alternate root drenches with fish emulsion/calmag on alternating weeks

so week 1: 5:2 fulvic:kelp
Week 2 fish/calmag drench
Week 3 5:2
… etc

I would also have organic cakes like a biogold on each plant in addition to this.

Do you think this would be effective or too much feeding for the duration of the growing season?