Bjorn’s Single Flush Pine technique explained!

Why do you have to shut down the discussion?

Why always taking offense?

Unless you can prove those trees couldn't get to refinement twice as fast using another method, there is nothing for you to say.

@William N. Valavanis was this tree refined in the same manner in NY?

Sorce
But the truth is in the trees. And you never meet that challenge, to be fair. Talk is cheap, those trees are expensive!
 
One thing that Bjorn pointed out about the timing is... it depends where you live.

I suppose that when a species has adapted to local climates, its reactions to different techniques can vary, depending especially on the length of the active season (if the term "season" means anything these days).

The best technique is the technique that works with your trees in your local environment. E.G. the "hedge pruning method" for instance.

I sometimes feel like trying the "flame-thrower method", but that's only when I feel depressed...
 
But the truth is in the trees. And you never meet that challenge, to be fair. Talk is cheap, those trees are expensive!

The truth isn't in the trees without knowledge of these things we can't keep track of.
Years, ramification, health.

Expensive....that's the point.

I can apply my techniques to his collection and make it better.

He can apply his wallet to mine and I'll have different trees, that I'll make better with my techniques.

Realize this has NOTHING TO DO WITH SHOWING TREES.

A discussion can be had....
But we're to sissy for that.

Sorce
 
With all due respect,

Bjorn is a Japanese trained Maser with international reputation. Y'know, trained with the guys that developed the techniques and continue, with modern botanical knowledge, to refine these techniques... and all of whom put in a lot of road time working client's trees in every situation imaginable. I would take his word, or Boon's or Ryan's as they have worked at all levels more times than pretty much anyone here. Another sharing of this on the Book of Faces got some dude riled up because apparently he used to be curator of the BBG collection... "my methods worked for me for 30 years..."

At the end of the day you can use great technique (japanese master's), outdated technique (BBG guy) or whatever the f@#$ you want. 30 year old technique "works" but they obviously can stand a refresh... Innovation pretty much requires persistent observation(s) over a number of trees and time.

Screw the "Bonsai Rock Star" BS . No one owes you an ounce of respect for whatever fly by the seat of your pants methodology you came up with, or your opinion of others unless you have proof.

Sometimes "All due" = 0
 
One thing that Bjorn pointed out about the timing is... it depends where you live.

I suppose that when a species has adapted to local climates, its reactions to different techniques can vary, depending especially on the length of the active season (if the term "season" means anything these days).

The best technique is the technique that works with your trees in your local environment. E.G. the "hedge pruning method" for instance.

I sometimes feel like trying the "flame-thrower method", but that's only when I feel depressed...

Yes, it is best to universally understand why you are doing something- what are the signs? Not necessarily on "July 6th = candle pruning" or any other technique ( this concept is not limited to pines). We were unseasonably mild this winter in SE TX. Never started unloading the green house in February... all the things I normally do did not happen because everything is slamming and jamming - a lot of trees are hardened off and getting fertilized a month or two early... meanwhile up north they are doing the shuffle and still getting snow in almost May. That all potentially has an effect. Trick is to figure out "what" that is...
 
Sucks that y'all can't have a discussion.

Sorce
 
Screw the "Bonsai Rock Star" BS . No one owes you an ounce of respect for whatever fly by the seat of your pants methodology you came up with, or your opinion of others unless you have proof

In my position, it sounds like this should be directed at someone other than myself, but since that's not the case....

Why do you think someone is out for "bonsai rock star" status.

Forgive me of I'm assuming, but this wouldn't be the first time someone projected that onto me because I think a lot.

I'm out to see better trees, not rocks, or stars.
Though I swear some people here smock crack, and knock themselves out.

Sorce
 
It's not about the burden of proof.

It's about showing trees that look nice to debate the length of time it took to get there.

It doesn't matter.

I shouldn't have said, don't have anything to say, I should have said, doesn't say anything.

@Dav4 cuticle cutters will be even less invasive, I was thinking about it looking at the video.

It's about the "poodled" aesthetic.
As well as less energy.

I get more energy and no poodling.View attachment 298149

Compact, and with buds to cut back to for restarts.View attachment 298150

And much more even candles from the get go.View attachment 298151

Because of what happens BEFORE spring.

It's about not being behind the 8ball.
Which is the position this (Bjorn's)technique works in.

There is more health and beauty to be had before the 8ball.

Sorce

No poodling.

Don't talk about me.

Talk about what I'm doing.

This isn't a me discussion forum, it is a bonsai discussion forum.

Sorce
 
The truth isn't in the trees without knowledge of these things we can't keep track of.
Years, ramification, health.

Expensive....that's the point.

I can apply my techniques to his collection and make it better.

He can apply his wallet to mine and I'll have different trees, that I'll make better with my techniques.

Realize this has NOTHING TO DO WITH SHOWING TREES.

A discussion can be had....
But we're to sissy for that.

Sorce


Start calling you "Cool Hand Sorce"

Cause sometimes a handful of nuthing is a real cool hand...

All you want to do is squawk but at the end of the day you have mediocre trees in a mediocre time frame. Your alleged better techniques aren't shit if they don't work. Not even on your own trees. Discussion of technique with you just raises the methane content of the earth.
 
I just wanted to know how to get more back buds on single flush pines.
Strengthen the tree first, grow out and cut back. When you do so, also wire branches downwards a bit and open them up for better sunlight and air movement.
 
In my position, it sounds like this should be directed at someone other than myself, but since that's not the case....

Why do you think someone is out for "bonsai rock star" status.

Forgive me of I'm assuming, but this wouldn't be the first time someone projected that onto me because I think a lot.

I'm out to see better trees, not rocks, or stars.
Though I swear some people here smock crack, and knock themselves out.

Sorce
That IS a generalization... but if it fits lace the bitch up like a Gene Simmons platform boot.

Attention seekers...

Mostly noobs. But maybe it is you- for someone that claims to "think a lot" and the world of botanical and bonsai knowledge available to them you sure don't back up anything you say... just "I could do better" "This is wrong". Statements like you working on Bjorn's trees.... safe challenge because you know it won't happen.

I did shorten it up from -the "what will it hurt" guys... sure because we haven't seen some one chop all the foliage off a juniper before in all of our 30 years. Maybe 1/1000 get a miraculous budback. etc. etc. etc. Attention seekers.



At the end of the day you have to know the rules to (successfully) break them.
 
just "I could do better" "This is wrong".

Please, from where did you gather this is as shallow as I meant anything?

Please.....

Quote what I said that turned men into girls.

You'se are acting pans.

Sorce
 
That's the only true thing you've said.

Now...

We know I know that....

So a discussion should take place.

Sorce
I would like the discussion. Bjorn's and @Adair M method is balancing the energy of the entire tree. He is creating bifurcation where there is 3 or more candles and shortening the longest/strongest buds back to an avg length. Creating balance in the tree and redirecting energy to the weaker buds. This makes perfect sense to me.
Can you please simply explain your method? Thank you, mike
 
Take it easy mates :)

I wouldn't like this discussion to be shut down: when removing the bitter chunks, it's a very interesting discussion.

Come on, it's not about egos, it's about techniques, and their evaluation in different contexts. Let's be civilized (wise guy me 🥴)
 
I watched the video yesterday. I though it was an excellent demonstration and explanation of how to work with refined trees.
One thing I wish he'd said more about, was the stage of development this was suited for (maintaining a refined tree). For trees at other stages of development, for example where you are looking for back budding, other techniques are appropriate.
Coincidentally Peter Warren covered some of those other aspects in a youtube stream yesterday -
- a bit less polished in terms of presentation, but lots of great information.
Between them, I think those two videos cover a huge amount of information about what to do, when, and why, on single-flush pines.
 
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