Apex37
Chumono
Showing lows in the low teens, upper single digits Sunday/Monday. Thankfully, I don’t have too many trees and will be storing them inside my utility room that I have all the tropicals in.
Get ALL of your trees on the ground up against the southern facing wall of your house (if possible). Cover the pots up over the rims at least an inch deep with pine straw (shredded hardwood mulch would be better if it's available). Do NOT cover the tops with anything made of plastic. If you have to cover the tops, use material that "breathes" like old sheets or burlap (covering the tops isn't necessary and can cause more trouble than it's worth) Make sure all your trees are well-watered before doing any of this. Water at the roots is critical to protecting them. Water acts as an insulator in cold weather. Don't move the trees around during the cold snap.
Not sure what species you're working with but the above is how I overwinter cedar elm and Bald cypress here in Va. Have trees collected in La. and even a cedar elm dug near Tyler (my folks used to live over past the "Blue Store" near the lake). Both species are very capable of riding out the temps forecast down there provided they get adequate protection on their roots. I've had Texas collected cedar elm for 30 years and they've seen some substantial cold (like minus single digits) in that time. They've been fine--but you have to protect the roots.
No. There's really no reason to keep BC submerged in winter, particularly if you're expecting weather cold enough to freeze the water it's in completely.Do you ever keep your BC in water but still mulch the top?
No. There's really no reason to keep BC submerged in winter, particularly if you're expecting weather cold enough to freeze the water it's in completely.
Great points, thanks!Montezuma Cypress is listed as hardy to Zone 6, so it's not quite as winter hardy as Bald Cypress. If you have an UNHEATED indoor location, like a garage, that would be good place for it.
FWIW, I'd get all the trees off of the decking and directly on the ground. Any surface that allows air circulation (even a bit) underneath the pots is not a great thing in cold weather. You have all those in very shallow containers, that adds to the risk of cold exposure. The more soil mass, the more protection for the roots. With pots so shallow, you're going to have to keep an eye on the forecast. Several days with temps that don't break 38 or so with nights below freezing will mean those pots will freeze through. While that's not a disaster, it's an avoidable complication that can damage the trunk in some cases.
Mulching them on the ground--piling it up over the pot rim and trunk base is the solution as that deep covering can lag low temps by a few days--meaning the pots won't freeze through as fast, which could give you enough time to make it through the cold spell.
FWIW, I mulch my BC into garden beds the day after Thanksgiving here. The BC roots and pots are under six inches of hardwood mulch. The beds are exposed to weather all winter. I never have had to water them and they're fine with very little attention until the beginning of April. BC is on the rigth, cedar elm on the left. That's about 2 1/2 feet of snow from a January storm a few years ago.
View attachment 523988
I've had Texas collected cedar elm for 30 years and they've seen some substantial cold (like minus single digits)
This can get you and your tree in trouble. Overwintering does NOT mean keeping trees "warm." It means keeping them cold within tolerable ranges. A seedling mat is not only unnecessary for cedar elm (or much else) in this area. Such treatment can push them to early bud break in February or even late January, which is a worst case scenario.Whew, this was the species I was concerned about in my collection.
Has anyone tried using seedling mats to keep soil temperature up? Not entirely sure but I think the crappy plastic shed in the backyard will get below freezing and not be enough protection by itself
This can get you and your tree in trouble. Overwintering does NOT mean keeping trees "warm." It means keeping them cold within tolerable ranges. A seedling mat is not only unnecessary for cedar elm (or much else) in this area. Such treatment can push them to early bud break in February or even late January, which is a worst case scenario.
My cedar elm saw 6 degrees last year.Whew, this was the species I was concerned about in my collection.
Has anyone tried using seedling mats to keep soil temperature up? Not entirely sure but I think the crappy plastic shed in the backyard will get below freezing and not be enough protection by itself
WTF???
Tropicals go into my garage and stay above freezing. Newly collected BCs moved to the back porch and put close to the house. I might put up a plywood wind break for the porch. That is all I plan to do.How are you preparing your trees for that temperature?