First maple in need of experienced view/thoughts

[danielwow12]

Hello! This is my first ever maple (A. ginnala 'Flame') and I really love some of its characteristics and leaves. These pictures of after a year of unrestricted growth and a trim of the unwanted branches (it grow from the three trunk stumps to over 5' tall, with very thick/hard vertical branches). It is also my first multi-trunk (clump style?) tree. Would love some thoughts/advice as I am feeling a bit overwhelmed and maybe my inexperience is leaving me with a big blank. Also note, the dead branches will be sawed, just waiting for a new one to come in as mine is so dull!

 

[sorce]

I like it....

The first view proposed a nice front....
If you could pull them together a bit.

Looks healthy, I'd chop it sooner than later.

Dope!

Sorce

 

[danielwow12]

I wish I could bring them in closer but they are stuck there it seems, or I need some new techniques/elbow grease.

How far down would you chop? It currently stands at 14"

 

[base797]

I have tightened up trunks larger on a burning bush by use of a turnbuckle and copper wire. Took a while to actually set though, 2 years.

Patrik

 

[sorce]

turnbuckle

Yup....check these out I got at Menards...
http://www.bonsainut.com/threads/tools-ferts-fools-and-dirt.21758/

Slow over years with good leverage.....

Chop it fattest tallest, thinnest shortest, to a visable node!

I'd chop the big one below the bulge...to clean that up....and make the others follow it's lead...

You may be able to grow your new trunks more toward the center as well....

Please note my my quote and my over .08 toxicity level!

Sorce

 

[danielwow12]

Thanks for the posts! I'll carry this out!

 

[CWTurner]

Here's what "I" would do, cut at the red line.
I may be wrong, so listen to some other suggestions be fore committing.
CW

 

[base797]

Turnbuckles in action.

Patrik

 

[danielwow12]

Here's what "I" would do, cut at the red line.
I may be wrong, so listen to some other suggestions be fore committing.
CW

The two stubs on the far right/bottom portion are both dead, the same goes for the little nub on the left most trunk. I was going to lop those off clean.

Those turnbuckles are gnarly, I've never seen anything like that

 

[sorce]

both dead

Good! 3 trunks or is!

I like CW's chop site.....but eventually, when these yellow marked nodes bud, you gotta clean em down to roughly the green lines....(one partially erased.)
Or those bulges will bug you down the road.

That right side could go right to that branch....

Fear not the chop!

This can be a wicked wicked tree!

Sorce

 

[JudyB]

This base has good potential. I would cut back hard as others have suggested, as the long straight parts lack taper and are not in keeping with the flowing base. These trees are super tough, and will put out new buds like crazy. You will have to spend some years of chopping and wiring to get there, but it will be a far nicer tree in the long run if you do the work.

 

[danielwow12]

Awesome, I am very excited about this one. Thanks again for everyones help

 

[Adair M]

So now it has 3 trunks, not 4?

That's better!

Yes, I think some shortening is called for, but not a drastic one. The largest trunk should be the tallest, and the thinnest trunk should be the shortest

I would cut the tallest trunk back just under all those heavy branch stubs. They're too large to be that high up. I was considering telling you to keep a smaller one to become the new apex, but there's going to be so much scarring if you remove all but one, I think you would do better just doing a chop.

Reduce the other two trunks proportionally.

I see you've planted it in a basket. That really a conifer technique. Not meant for deciduous trees. It won't kill it, but it will dry out fast, so keep it watered.

Next repot, you would do better by working the bottom of the root ball to get it as shallow as possible. See the wood box the tree with the turnbuckles is in? That's ideal for developing a deciduous nebari.

 

[sorce]

My lil Amur is in a basket....it is the first to need watering twice a day.

I cut those depot pond baskets in half. And zip tie the 2 pieces back together at a 3-4 inch height. To keep it rigid.
The bottom is smaller, you could fill the gap between the 2 pieces with sphagnum, then zip tie em.

I'll get a pic of you need.

In a colander, my lil Amur, the root mass is so dense I could club a seal pup with it.
This could be good or bad!
The roots.
Of course clubbing a seal is bad!

Sorce

 

[danielwow12]

So now it has 3 trunks, not 4?

That's better!

Yes, I think some shortening is called for, but not a drastic one. The largest trunk should be the tallest, and the thinnest trunk should be the shortest

I would cut the tallest trunk back just under all those heavy branch stubs. They're too large to be that high up. I was considering telling you to keep a smaller one to become the new apex, but there's going to be so much scarring if you remove all but one, I think you would do better just doing a chop.

Reduce the other two trunks proportionally.

I see you've planted it in a basket. That really a conifer technique. Not meant for deciduous trees. It won't kill it, but it will dry out fast, so keep it watered.

Next repot, you would do better by working the bottom of the root ball to get it as shallow as possible. See the wood box the tree with the turnbuckles is in? That's ideal for developing a deciduous nebari.

Very informative, I'll post pictures once I get off work!

 

[M. Frary]

. Not meant for deciduous trees.

All of my decidious trees go in colanders. They work for all kinds of trees. Pure D.E. I only water once per day.

 

[Adair M]

All of my decidious trees go in colanders. They work for all kinds of trees. Pure D.E. I only water once per day.

Mike, as I said, you won't kill your tree. But typically, colanders are deep. You get roots growing down. With deciduous trees, you want roots growing out, wide.

I have seen some shorter, flatter colanders. One of my students used one on a Japanese maple. It's not the open sides I'm objecting to, it's the shape of the container.

 

[danielwow12]

So now it has 3 trunks, not 4?

That's better!

Yes, I think some shortening is called for, but not a drastic one. The largest trunk should be the tallest, and the thinnest trunk should be the shortest

I would cut the tallest trunk back just under all those heavy branch stubs. They're too large to be that high up. I was considering telling you to keep a smaller one to become the new apex, but there's going to be so much scarring if you remove all but one, I think you would do better just doing a chop.

Reduce the other two trunks proportionally.

I see you've planted it in a basket. That really a conifer technique. Not meant for deciduous trees. It won't kill it, but it will dry out fast, so keep it watered.

Next repot, you would do better by working the bottom of the root ball to get it as shallow as possible. See the wood box the tree with the turnbuckles is in? That's ideal for developing a deciduous nebari.

When I repott it, I noticed a big block of trunk underneath. I did my best to reduce it and it appeared a lot of the wood was rotting underneath. A lot of the deadwood you see in that picture is dead as well, along with trunks exposing black along the inside. I'll get a picture when there is sunlight out!

 

[Adair M]

Deadwood is usually dead...

Deadwood is alto usually not a feature with a maple tree. In nature, it would rot away.

Deadwood on junipers is natural and long lasting because they are native to more arid places, often higher in altitude, where the air is dry, and the harsh sun bleaches the wood out and there is little fungus and molds to rot the wood away. ( How's THAT for a run on sentence? Ha!)

 

[danielwow12]

Haha yeah, funny how deadwood is dead =P I just never noticed the dark spots from within the trunks before on other trees I have, also my first (and only so far) maple. It grows like a weed though so I haven't worried much. That is always a good sign...right?