"Don't let me go to the nursery on my lunch hour" my burning bush

Assuming you've got a descent base, I'd plan to cut back the main branches hard while reducing the root-ball by 50% next spring, then planting it in a pond basket or colander.

I would second this advice. They can take hard cutbacks if done in early spring before bud break. After being in a colander for two years I would put it right into a bonsai pot. Be aware that these like a lot of water. If you put it in a colander you may need to water several times a day. In the hottest months it may need to sit in a shallow tray with some water.

Don't put it in the ground. Work on the tree you have and learn how to grow this tree in a pot. The idea that the tree will magically become better once it has been grown out in the ground is based on knowing how to properly ground grow. Since you are just starting out its unlikely the case. With the tree in a pot you can bring it to workshops and learn. There is nothing to say that you can't put the tree in the ground in a couple of years if you realize that the tree needs to be grown out more.
 
Who is arguing this? I've used and seen these used on several extremely healthy and expensive trees, and their roots are just fine.

This may fit into the more advanced trees category. Being safer cuz they have already been raked out for years.

But nursery stuff, that has gone from 4in pots up to 16in pots, with the circling roots apparent at every interval, it is very bad to use 3 hooks. IMO.
Unless you are extremely careful!

Sorce
 
This may fit into the more advanced trees category. Being safer cuz they have already been raked out for years.

But nursery stuff, that has gone from 4in pots up to 16in pots, with the circling roots apparent at every interval, it is very bad to use 3 hooks. IMO.
Unless you are extremely careful!

Sorce
I've also used them on nursery material and it worked just fine.
 
I use a hose on jet to clean out roots. And whatever I have at hand to straighten the ones the hose cant. Usually my hand. I've found my meat hooks double as root hooks.
 
I've also used them on nursery material and it worked just fine.

I don't doubt it!

However, physics, science, and no support at the outside of the bend as we have been taught, will ensure damage in this likely scenario.

I can not argue science! IMG_20151106_113650.jpg


Of course SOME trees can deal with this.
Which leads to many questions.
What tree?
What number repot?
Etc.

Sorce
 
Of course SOME trees can deal with this.
Which leads to many questions.
What tree?
What number repot?

In my experience burning bushes can take a lot of root work all at once. If it were my tree I would do what Mike suggests and use a hose and clean out all of the old soil. This is what I did when I collected my burning bush. The tree is about 30 years old. I washed out as much of the old soil as I could at collection. Root reduction was probably 80-90% top reduction was about the same. I eliminated probably 99% of the buds that were on the tree.. All that and it never skipped a beat.
 
In my experience burning bushes can take a lot of root work all at once. If it were my tree I would do what Mike suggests and use a hose and clean out all of the old soil. This is what I did when I collected my burning bush. The tree is about 30 years old. I washed out as much of the old soil as I could at collection. Root reduction was probably 80-90% top reduction was about the same. I eliminated probably 99% of the buds that were on the tree.. All that and it never skipped a beat.

Spring time?

I can't win with freaking BB.

Sorce
 
On the lunch hour I ran home, grabbed a bobber and exposed some of the roots. Not sure if it was enough, but here is what I saw.
 

THats your flare.

Anything below that fatty is going to leave you needing to cut that fatty. Nono IMO!

If possible. Find a tilt where these will be on the same plane.

Looks good. Great tool choice!

Sorce
 
THats your flare.

Anything below that fatty is going to leave you needing to cut that fatty. Nono IMO!

If possible. Find a tilt where these will be on the same plane.

Looks good. Great tool choice!

Sorce
So when I do prune the roots, I will keep those spreading-from-the-trunk-roots but cut just beneath them?
 
I suck at BB.

No luck.

I......would cut an inch off the bottom every year for about 5 years.

Since you will be refining the top in this time, a pot by year 6.

I would seek a better answer.
But mine is safe! I think.

Sorce
 
It's just......

It seems safe, but then someone may come in and say working the roots at all two years in a row will kill it.

Yada. Every tree is different

The BB I bought in fall, nursery, hacked in spring and chopped the roots. Died.

Still trying to figure em!

Sorce
 
I would bare root it and cut both the top and roots back hard.

But...my recommendation would be to tred a little lighter. I would inclined to use the same technique that Vance advocates for mugos. Using a saw cut the cut the bottom of the root ball off then put it in a colander. This should be done in early spring.
 
Burning bushes are decidious trees right? I would hose the roots off in the spring and cut them back just enough to fit into a colander. I would also prune it at the same time. Treat it like a boxwood like someone else said.
They seem to be pretty tough. We sold them at the nursery I worked at. They came in bareroot and we potted them up.
 
I heard they layer, but not the easiest.

MGV probably shoulda seen that view before buying, but that view wouldn't take buying off the table for me.

Still could be something there to make presentable with a bit of time, arranging, cutting and moss!

You guys are gonna end up making me find another BB to play with!

Sorce
 
I comment purely from a point of aesthetics as I don't get that plant where I live so I can't offer any practical advice at all.
 
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