Bjorn’s Single Flush Pine technique explained!

[Sekibonsai]

 

[sorce]

The truth isn't in the trees without knowledge of these things we can't keep track of.
Years, ramification, health.

Expensive....that's the point.

I can apply my techniques to his collection and make it better.

He can apply his wallet to mine and I'll have different trees, that I'll make better with my techniques.

Realize this has NOTHING TO DO WITH SHOWING TREES.

A discussion can be had....
But we're to sissy for that.

Sorce

This?

Was in regards to your collection Adair.

Because I would think it out beginning with your position, not Japan's.

And FYi....

You can call this "going against".

Or "working with", as I do.

Why the fight?

I do not understand.

Sorce

.

 

[Adair M]

This?

Was in regards to your collection Adair.

Because I would think it out beginning with your position, not Japan's.

And FYi....

You can call this "going against".

Or "working with", as I do.

Why the fight?

I do not understand.

Sorce

.

in terms of geography, my climate is very similiar to Japan’s. I’m up in elevation a bit, so I’m cooler than Atlanta. I grow JWP, because I can. My winters are cool enough, and my summers are not too hot, so they thrive. In fact, they do much better for me here than they do in California. I have brought JWP home from California specifically because they grow better in my climate than they were in California. In fact, a couple of my trees are here specifically because their previous owner was worried about their health, and had heard from Boon about how well they do here, and so they wanted me to have them! For the health of the tree.

I don’t think all trees would thrive here, for example, I don’t think a California Juniper would like it here. They’re desert trees. We’re closer to being a rainforest!

But back to the point...

I stated early on that I maintain my collection of JWP exactly as Bjorn would do it. And then you go and say you would do it “better”. No specifics, just “better”. Come on, be real. You don’t have anything approach the quality of these trees. One of these recently won BIS at two shows over the winter. Another was in the National Exhibition in 2018. Another will be shown at the Nationals in 2020 if it’s not cancelled. These are some of the best JWP in the country. But you could do “better”. Right...

 

[River's Edge]

Your right about there being more specifics in the video. He’s talking about Scots and mugo mostly. He stats that JWP are less likely to backbud. But he is certain about getting branches of Scots and mugo to backbud on the branch with this technique.

Agreed every time I look at a Mugo sideways it back buds, one needs to be careful or all the time is spent on bud shoot selection. Same with Scots Pine, two great examples of tree's that back bud easily.

 

[sorce]

”. No specifics, just “better”. Come on, be real

The specifics are hashed out in the discussion.

I believe this is a group effort.

But the be more people seperate the group, the less we learn and advance.

Sorce

 

[Paul G]

Like almost everything with bonsai: “it depends”. If the growth is a sacrifice branch, there’s no need to pinch or reduce to two as long as it’s not shading the keeper branches below. So, the extra branches grow and contribute to creating wood lower on the trunk.

View attachment 298185
This picture is Telperion’s patch of JBP. Those sacrifice trunks are 15 feet tall! They let the side shoots of the sacrifice grow for a while, then they prune them off, leaving only the central leader. The central leader growing tall focuses the tree’s energy up, and produces the thickest trunk in the least amount of time. Over the years, they’ll grow a series of sacrifice branches like this to build a heavy trunk with taper.

But, that’s not what Bjorn was demonstrating. He is showing refinement techniques. For trees either beginning refinement, or fully into refinement.

Sorce was saying “different techniques for different seasons of the year”. Well, not exactly. It’s different techniques for different stages of development.

Thanks for your thoughtful reply!!

That makes total sense. Who cares about trunk swelling in sections that will be cut off? Most of my pines (JBP, scots, and Mugo) are around 2yo. I have a ton of them, so I can play around, but I'm still a year or two away from picking a solid leader in most cases. Tons of buds to choose from right now.

 

[Adair M]

The specifics are hashed out in the discussion.

I believe this is a group effort.

But the be more people seperate the group, the less we learn and advance.

Sorce

What is this “group” you speak of?? You and the voices you hear in your head?

The only person who wants to argue is you.

in post #7, you said “this is not good”. But never showed an alternative. No examples of a better way. All you post are “thoughts” because you’re a “thinker”. I would put it closer to being a dreamer.

Here I post a video by a guy who is respected AROUND THE WORLD for his bonsai skills and knowledge, and you dismiss it because you don’t think it’s good. Because in your mind, you can’t understand it.

It seems that everybody else isn’t arguing, they want to know more. How to apply it, when to use it, that kind of stuff. Not deny it works.

Take a poll of your group. Ask how many understand and agree with what Bjorn was presenting, and how many deny it. You should have fun with those thoughts!

 

[Lazylightningny]

It will take 20 to 25 years for the White Pine trunk to start to become flaky. Then it takes another decade for it to be flaky uniformly all around the trunk. Then another decade to start to develop plates on the bark.

Just setting some expectations.

I'll be quite dead by then

 

[Adair M]

I'll be quite dead by then

Which is why I buy older trees to work with.

 

[Lazylightningny]

Which is why I buy older trees to work with.

Which I completely agree with. However... Your trees are all big money. Which I unfortunately can't afford. So I will always have sub-par trees. Which I'm ok with. I still have fun with it.

 

[Adair M]

Which I completely agree with. However... Your trees are all big money. Which I unfortunately can't afford. So I will always have sub-par trees. Which I'm ok with. I still have fun with it.

That’s ok. The only reason I brought it up is you stated something about the bark matching. That takes a very long time. It’s one of the reasons they graft JWP on JBP stock, to get a trunk with old looking bark at a relatively young age. The trick there is to hide the graft union as best you can.

 

[KiwiPlantGuy]

Which is why I buy older trees to work with.

Hi,
How many years can one expect to wait, re grow and chop, before working on a pine in refinement.
Can’t purchase trees here, so I wait, watch, learn, and wait some more!!!
Charles

 

[Rob_phillips]

Are you kidding? You want ME to explain this? No, Bjorn does it just fine! Have a watch:

I will add:

One thing he did not mention is the possibility of there being pollen cones at the base of the strongest candles. If you’re not careful, it’s possible to mistake them for needles, and when pinching back, remove all the needles, leaving only the pollen cones! (Ask me how I know!). If you do this, don’t fret, when I did it, the tree later backbudded with new shoots where the pollen cones were. At least it did for my Zuisho.

Anyway, here’s a picture of a candles that I’ve already pinched back, but you can see the pollen cones at the base. They’re round, and a little tan. The needles are pointy, and green:


View attachment 298116

Question will you remove this entire candle towards the end of the year to remove the section that had the pollen cones as not to get a section with no growth after they drop off.
But obviously with enough time left I. The season to set new buds for next year at the cut zone

 

[sorce]

What is this “group” you speak of?? You and the voices you hear in your head?

The only person who wants to argue is you.

in post #7, you said “this is not good”. But never showed an alternative. No examples of a better way. All you post are “thoughts” because you’re a “thinker”. I would put it closer to being a dreamer.

Here I post a video by a guy who is respected AROUND THE WORLD for his bonsai skills and knowledge, and you dismiss it because you don’t think it’s good. Because in your mind, you can’t understand it.

It seems that everybody else isn’t arguing, they want to know more. How to apply it, when to use it, that kind of stuff. Not deny it works.

Take a poll of your group. Ask how many understand and agree with what Bjorn was presenting, and how many deny it. You should have fun with those thoughts!

You are still under some false assumption I am going against Bjorn?
Or denying this technique does what it does?

That was never stated.
Don't try to turn tables and blame me for your short thinking's.

Do you understand how trees muddy the thought water?

Do you understand anything beyond what your commanded to do?

Here YOU go again.

But you can't change the previous text.

So what you say remains .....

Nothing.

Sorce

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

I'll be quite dead by then

You need to take a more optimistic approach, like:

"Damnit, I have every intention of living long enough to see this JWP develop bark all the way to the top of the trunk."

Our ownership of our trees does not have to be until death do us part. We take a tree, develop it as much as we are interested in doing so, and if it is any good, then move it on to the next owner.

 

[Djtommy]

Well this a long discussion with almost no information...
bjorns technique ( well this is not bjorns technique obviously, Peter warren (you people should really check out his YouTube. Channel, stream about beech is awesome) and most other are using this. It’s a very good way for balancing the trees strength so all candles on the whole tree grow similar.

now I have a white pine where I do not do this and I will tell you why. It has a tendency to produce very long needles which is great for fast growing as it produces more energy for the tree, for bonsai however not very wanted. If I cut the candles this way, the remaining needles grow longer the if I do not cut the candles in half. So what I dI’d last year on this tree let everything grow out, where there are 3 I leave 3. In beginning of july I cut the long candles which have now just fully grown with needles in half. Where there was 3 I now remove the strongest one. This way I also got new buds on the candles I cut in half however not on all of them and some died off. Maybe this way isn’t great, maybe I should have cut earlier. I might do that this year,

 

[Wilson]

Which I completely agree with. However... Your trees are all big money. Which I unfortunately can't afford. So I will always have sub-par trees. Which I'm ok with. I still have fun with it.

Plus bonsai is multi generational, so you are doing the future hobbyists a favour. I quite enjoy thinking about humble beginnings becoming nice bonsai through time.

 

[Adair M]

Well this a long discussion with almost no information...
bjorns technique ( well this is not bjorns technique obviously, Peter warren (you people should really check out his YouTube. Channel, stream about beech is awesome) and most other are using this. It’s a very good way for balancing the trees strength so all candles on the whole tree grow similar.

now I have a white pine where I do not do this and I will tell you why. It has a tendency to produce very long needles which is great for fast growing as it produces more energy for the tree, for bonsai however not very wanted. If I cut the candles this way, the remaining needles grow longer the if I do not cut the candles in half. So what I dI’d last year on this tree let everything grow out, where there are 3 I leave 3. In beginning of july I cut the long candles which have now just fully grown with needles in half. Where there was 3 I now remove the strongest one. This way I also got new buds on the candles I cut in half however not on all of them and some died off. Maybe this way isn’t great, maybe I should have cut earlier. I might do that this year,

Question for you: do you fertilize in spring?

 

[Adair M]

You are still under some false assumption I am going against Bjorn?
Or denying this technique does what it does?

That was never stated.
Don't try to turn tables and blame me for your short thinking's.

Do you understand how trees muddy the thought water?

Do you understand anything beyond what your commanded to do?

Here YOU go again.

But you can't change the previous text.

So what you say remains .....

Nothing.

Sorce

So, now you’re denying you made Post #3, 5, and 7?

look, I’ve been beyond patient with you. You obviously would rather listen to the voices in your head than anything from me, Bjorn, Peter or anyone halfway mainstream. Fine. Do whatever you want. Just don’t come on to my threads and start spouting your nonsense. You want to do bonsai your way? Have at it. But don’t mess up my threads. Got it?

 

[Gaijin]

In “your opinion”, and “your experience”? Right? I don’t want to be accused of misinterpreting your post.

Well, Bjorn’s method is exactly what I do, and have done with my JWP.

Here are a few of my JWP:

View attachment 298136

View attachment 298137

View attachment 298138

View attachment 298140

View attachment 298141


Now, you show me your trees that you do your way since you have so much experience.

Misinterpret his post? How can you do anything BUT misinterpret his posts? That literati is bad-ass.