Srt8madness
Omono
Smart move and fantastic tree!!! Looks super healthy.
What Do You Guys Think?
- Thread starter Isilwen
- Start date
ShadyStump
Imperial Masterpiece
Ficus benjamina can get a bad rap in some circles as unsuitable for bonsai, but I personally disagree. They're unlikely to make a show winning tree, but they are SO MUCH FUN to work with!
You'll notice when you repot that they have a tendency to grow fat, tuberous roots. In nature these help saplings store resources for the dry periods, but if you you keep the soil moist enough (but not enough for root rot to set in) they'll never feel the need to save up. Using a hard inorganic substrate can help with that too.
They also tend toward apically dominant growth, meaning whatever branch is topmost will be the one that takes off, sometimes letting other branches die off in favor of the apex if you don't keep it in check.
They have a reputation for being fussy. This comes from their habit of throwing off all their foliage when moved for the first time in a long while. Just move it about now and then to keep it from growing leaves that are too specialized to one location, and you'll avoid this. If it does happen, just continue to care for it normally, and it will regrow a new head of hair in a month or two.
Another thing to keep in mind is these things don't make rough bark at all.
Otherwise, they can grow quite fast (leading to the relative high maintenance some people talk about) and have wood that stays rather flexible even when mature. They're tolerant of a wide range of soil types and moisture levels, as well as light levels and humidity.
The wood can be springy and sometimes pop right back to it's original position when you remove any wiring. I find that using weights or guy wires works better because of this, but benjamina also respond wonderfully to cut and grow techniques.
If you leave wire on too long and it starts to cut in, it's not as big a concern as on other deciduous trees. That springy wood and fast growth will smooth it right out.
Another thing to remember is these things don't make rough bark at all. Cute, scrape, gouge, whatever; it'll heal over with fresh, smooth, soft bark every time.
Work them when they're actively growing. Pluck a leaf, and if you see the white sap flow, go for broke.
I don't recommend cutting a branch back to no leaves left. It's likely to just abandon the branch.
You'll notice when you repot that they have a tendency to grow fat, tuberous roots. In nature these help saplings store resources for the dry periods, but if you you keep the soil moist enough (but not enough for root rot to set in) they'll never feel the need to save up. Using a hard inorganic substrate can help with that too.
They also tend toward apically dominant growth, meaning whatever branch is topmost will be the one that takes off, sometimes letting other branches die off in favor of the apex if you don't keep it in check.
They have a reputation for being fussy. This comes from their habit of throwing off all their foliage when moved for the first time in a long while. Just move it about now and then to keep it from growing leaves that are too specialized to one location, and you'll avoid this. If it does happen, just continue to care for it normally, and it will regrow a new head of hair in a month or two.
Another thing to keep in mind is these things don't make rough bark at all.
Otherwise, they can grow quite fast (leading to the relative high maintenance some people talk about) and have wood that stays rather flexible even when mature. They're tolerant of a wide range of soil types and moisture levels, as well as light levels and humidity.
The wood can be springy and sometimes pop right back to it's original position when you remove any wiring. I find that using weights or guy wires works better because of this, but benjamina also respond wonderfully to cut and grow techniques.
If you leave wire on too long and it starts to cut in, it's not as big a concern as on other deciduous trees. That springy wood and fast growth will smooth it right out.
Another thing to remember is these things don't make rough bark at all. Cute, scrape, gouge, whatever; it'll heal over with fresh, smooth, soft bark every time.
Work them when they're actively growing. Pluck a leaf, and if you see the white sap flow, go for broke.
I don't recommend cutting a branch back to no leaves left. It's likely to just abandon the branch.
x2 for sure or check lowes home depot walmart for the same thing for less
Email them or call them. They have MUCH more than what is on their website and are happy to send pictures of things you may be interested in. They have a chat box on their website as well that you could tell then what you're looking for.
And he's a great guy also!
Isilwen
Mame
Which tree? The original one?
rockm
Spuds Moyogi
I think you got a great tree for the money. Lots of potential in that one. You'll have to thin some of the branching out and if you feel like it, wire the rest so the top looks a bit fuller. Not a problem for ficus as they're tough and resilient. If you have somewhere to put this outdoors this summer, the tree would appreciate it. Back inside in early autumn.
Isilwen
Mame
Best I can do outside is a screened in balcony that gets about 5-6 hours or morning sun, maybe a little less.
Why inside in early autumn? I live in Central Florida and other than the rare below 40 degree nights in the winter it stays pretty warm to sometimes hot throughout non-summer nights.
rockm
Spuds Moyogi
Forgot you live in Fla. Just watch for those below 40 degree nights.
yes
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