It is probably a good idea to coverthe exposed part of the stone/roots with some sphagnum moss and foil. to let them thicken and adjust to beeing above ground.I tried my first ever ROR with a juniper. It used to be part of a front garden and I didn't know what to do with it. It seemed promising as a raft but didn't feel like going for it. When I started repotting I noticed many leggy roots so I untangled them and improvised with a rock that I found on the field, not the prettiest one but for a first attempt will do the job.
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Good point, thank you for the advice.It is probably a good idea to coverthe exposed part of the stone/roots with some sphagnum moss and foil. to let them thicken and adjust to beeing above ground.
By not fully removing the branch, the branch will help to heal the wound. Ultimately the goal is to remove the branch, but with far less wound to heal.Please help this rookie understand the goal behind this process? Are you gradually working toward removing everything above this cut?
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Please help this rookie understand the goal behind this process? Are you gradually working toward removing everything above this cut?
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I've never received a tree with good roots from the auctions. Most of mine were two years overdue for a repot and appeared to never have even intial rootwork done on them. One of the many reason I've stopped buying trees from the Facebook auctions. Sometimes patience is hard for me but I just keep remembering the Japanese Black Pine that turned out to be a Scots pine.surprise surprise, the trident maple i got online was hiding some nasty roots and inverse taper underneath the soil line. it was also potted in what felt like straight clay, and the relatively low number of fine feeder roots is one reason the leaves are minuscule.
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a shame given the phenomenal movement in the trunk. recovery mode for time being into akadama/pumice with some charcoal. plan is to let it recover for a year or two and then ground layer