Did my first two repots today! Hoping for the best...

[chuckyblack09]

Did my first two repots today and I am super excited with the results. Now I guess time will tell if they will be successful.

The only thing I'm a little worried about is since this was my first repot I'm not exactly confident on how I handled the roots/the amount I took off. I guess that's how ya learn though.

I know the 4 maples isn't exactly typical (usually an odd number) but I figure I have a few more that I bought that are similar size, but aren't here yet and won't be for another 2 weeks probably. I can always add them to the mix next spring if I want to or take some cuttings from these ones this year and add those in in a few years.

Anyway, here's to hoping for the best!

 

[pandacular]

Welcome to the forum!

Great work diving right in with repotting--this can be an area that many beginners neglect, but it is every bit as important as working the top. If you'll excuse feedback from someone with relatively little experience myself, I would say that the single tree could likely be a little bit lower in it's pot to encourage more fine roots among those bigger chunky ones. You'll eventually want to cut those roots back, which will induce some more taper and a more even root spread (nebari), much like you would with a branch. All of my trees get top-dressed with shredded Sphagnum moss mixed with a bit of shredded locally collected mosses, which keeps the surface a bit more moist, encourages fine rooting near the surface, and eventually grows in a nice carpet of moss.

I know the 4 maples isn't exactly typical (usually an odd number) but I figure I have a few more that I bought that are similar size, but aren't here yet and won't be for another 2 weeks probably. I can always add them to the mix next spring if I want to or take some cuttings from these ones this year and add those in in a few years.

This sounds like a great plan.

 

[chuckyblack09]

If you'll excuse feedback from someone with relatively little experience myself, I would say that the single tree could likely be a little bit lower in it's pot to encourage more fine roots among those bigger chunky ones. You'll eventually want to cut those roots back, which will induce some more taper and a more even root spread (nebari), much like you would with a branch.

I actually do have sphagnum moss. Maybe I'll add a little more soil around the roots and cover the top with moss like you said. Some of the bigger roots shoot straight down shortly after where they are covered so it would definitely make sense to try and get more roots growing up top so I can cut those back next time.

Thanks for the feedback!

 

[pandacular]

I had a super similar situation on my japanese maple that I repotted yesterday. They almost look like twins! One thing I did to encourage more roots near the trunk on those big roots was to scrape away some of the bark with a knife, then cover them with soil. For the big gaps, I’m going to attempt a root graft this summer.

I actually do have sphagnum moss. Maybe I'll add a little more soil around the roots and cover the top with moss like you said.

This would work, but the extra soil might be unnecessary. You could apply the sphagnum damp, then sprinkle a thin layer of soil on top, and tamp it down lightly. This will make a very solid sandwich layer that won’t wash away easily while watering.

 

[Shibui]

my first repot I'm not exactly confident on how I handled the roots/the amount I took off.

In my experience beginners are too afraid to take off too much root so relax. The trees will be OK.
Even if the single tree had roots chopped back to what's visible above the soil in your picture it would almost certainly survive. I've done that and even harder a number of times. Not saying you should cut that hard every time but it is possible.

 

[leatherback]

Nice to see you get started!

Keep in mind Bonsai are developed over time. So it is very normal to space things out over multiple seasons to get the best result. I notice you have the base of the roots all above the ground. This will result in never getting new roots at the level of your nebari (As it is exposed). It would be normal to in the development years keep alle the roots well-covered with substrate.

 

[chuckyblack09]

Here's a little update photo. I added enough soil to just cover the roots that were showing and put the sphagnum moss on top.
Should I put the sphagnum moss all over? Also should I add soil to create a slight rise to the trunk area or just keep the sort of "mound" I have now around the roots. I'm thinking if I just keep the mound it may not encourage the roots to grow laterally out far enough once they get to the end of the mound.

 

[dbonsaiw]

Anyway, here's to hoping for the best!

You done good. No better way to learn than to do.

 

[Mike Corazzi]

Good luck adding a tree to get the count right. I had bad experience trying to get sizes and growth to match.
(also branch directions to get the group looking right.)
Finally tore it down into separate trees.

 

[River's Edge]

For those involved in developing maple roots/ nebari it is beneficial to choose containers that promote lateral spread as opposed to downward spread. So wider shallower containers will be of more benefit to younger trees like these. try to avoid regular shaped nursery pots. A good compromise is an azalea style pot. Shorter and wider. But do keep the roots covered for best development results!
They are inexpensive, Try Lowes for example. Two common sizes 7 inch diameter and 10 inch diameter. I like to drill extra holes for better drainage and tie downs. Can also groove the rim a bit for air exchange and drainage on smooth benches or concrete. Do not have to fill them to the brim.

 

[The Warm Canuck]

For those involved in developing maple roots/ nebari it is beneficial to choose containers that promote lateral spread as opposed to downward spread. So wider shallower containers will be of more benefit to younger trees like these. try to avoid regular shaped nursery pots. A good compromise is an azalea style pot. Shorter and wider. But do keep the roots covered for best development results!
They are inexpensive, Try Lowes for example. Two common sizes 7 inch diameter and 10 inch diameter. I like to drill extra holes for better drainage and tie downs. Can also groove the rim a bit for air exchange and drainage on smooth benches or concrete. Do not have to fill them to the brim.

Great advise, just be aware of how cold your winters become, teracotta will crack in in frozen temps.

 

[Dabbler]

Now keep it up and pretty soon you'll be doing the bonsai shuffle like the rest of us!

 

[River's Edge]

Great advise, just be aware of how cold your winters become, teracotta will crack in in frozen temps.

If in colder areas one can purchase brands that are more frost proof. I have good luck with Deroma from Italy. The ones I noted from Lowes are usually Deroma, but check before buying. Now if you live in a very cold area and you are using them for maples they will not be outside anyway. Most maples for Bonsai do not do well in colder winter without substantial protection. So another consideration is how are they being used and stored. Native maples another story of course.

 

[BonjourBonsai]

For those involved in developing maple roots/ nebari it is beneficial to choose containers that promote lateral spread as opposed to downward spread. So wider shallower containers will be of more benefit to younger trees like these. try to avoid regular shaped nursery pots. A good compromise is an azalea style pot. Shorter and wider. But do keep the roots covered for best development results!
They are inexpensive, Try Lowes for example. Two common sizes 7 inch diameter and 10 inch diameter. I like to drill extra holes for better drainage and tie downs. Can also groove the rim a bit for air exchange and drainage on smooth benches or concrete. Do not have to fill them to the brim.

I've used a lot of these and drilled holes like you did. I hadn't thought to cut channels for drainage - good idea! I've found that the larger pots survive the winter freezes no problem but the smaller ones succumb to cracks. Not sure why. Maybe because water does not drain. Maybe the channels will help with that. I've had juniper and mugos in these pots and the I'm always pleased with the amount of mycrozoa that develops. Not sure if the tera cota aids in its development or not. They are good cheap pots though!

 

[River's Edge]

One of the draw backs to terra cotta is the extra amount of moisture retained in the pot itself. Watering frequency needs to be adjusted. One of the benefits in hotter climates is the cooling effect of the moisture retained in the terra cotta. All in all the can be a good choice under certain circumstances and budgets! I love better quality bonsai pots, however for a nursery with hundreds of trees under development Anderson flats and terra cotta become viable options at certain stages of development.