WARREN HILL JAPANESE MAPLE CLUMP

Definitely like the new design than the original.
 
I have been pondering in the last few days doing this to my 3 trunk. I am not content with the direction, and the only way out is starting over. You certainly were successful with this makeover, so I'm encouraged to try....
Thanks for sharing this.
 
Wow. Didn't see that coming. Brave move.


The seemingly impulsive move was the result of many weeks being unhappy with this bonsai. The tall meandering and somewhat taperless trunks just gnawed at me. The tree had already flushed out and when I hacked it back, it went into shock. It took a few weeks for it recover and very slowly budded back. It even had me worried, as it took a while to show signs of recovery. Once it did, it exploded! My timing was far from ideal and much better to do this in late winter/early spring as the tree has not yet used its stored resources.
 
I have been pondering in the last few days doing this to my 3 trunk. I am not content with the direction, and the only way out is starting over. You certainly were successful with this makeover, so I'm encouraged to try....
Thanks for sharing this.


Do it, do it, do it....
 
Hi Sergio. I think this was a good move. It took courage to do this, but I'm confident that a better tree will be the result.

A design question. You've envisioned the apex of the two main trunks to bend in opposite directions. Can you comment on that design choice? I can imagine another in which the apex of the two main trees pointed in the same direction by either using the existing top branch on the main trunk or threading it in the opposite direction to strengthen the overall movement of the composition to the right.
 
Hi Sergio. I think this was a good move. It took courage to do this, but I'm confident that a better tree will be the result.

A design question. You've envisioned the apex of the two main trunks to bend in opposite directions. Can you comment on that design choice? I can imagine another in which the apex of the two main trees pointed in the same direction by either using the existing top branch on the main trunk or threading it in the opposite direction to strengthen the overall movement of the composition to the right.


Thanks Scott! I thought of going opposite to add variety to the trunk lines. These are trunk line extensions and not yet the actual apexes. As the actual apex is built, it can then be brought over to the right to harmonize with the other two.
 
It's funny that when I look back on the first images of this tree, I'm surprised that you didn't chop it sooner... but I also know my thoughts today are biased because of the most recent pictures you've posted. You really did a great job improving the original composition with your work over the last few years, but I think you took it as far as it could go. Last summer's work, while technically a step or two backwards, will really move the tree way beyond where it's been previously:). By the way, I've found those spur of the moment, saw in hand type decisions usually work out for the best... usually;).
 
It's funny that when I look back on the first images of this tree, I'm surprised that you didn't chop it sooner... but I also know my thoughts today are biased because of the most recent pictures you've posted. You really did a great job improving the original composition with your work over the last few years, but I think you took it as far as it could go. Last summer's work, while technically a step or two backwards, will really move the tree way beyond where it's been previously:). By the way, I've found those spur of the moment, saw in hand type decisions usually work out for the best... usually;).


Thanks Dave! As you know, some things need to come to you. I tried to use most of the original material in the hopes I could make something decent out of it but realized I could get a better tree out of the material. I think it's safe to say this is probably like 100 steps back LOL! Oh well.... it's only time. :rolleyes:
 
Here is an update. Tree is progressing nicely. It has been fertilized well in order to promote rapid growth and thus rapid healing.









I have been watching the thread graft carefully. It was finally time to cut it off. Notice the exit portion of the threaded whip is much thicker than the entry one. This is a good sign that the graft has taken and safe to separate. All throughout the process I kept all foliage out of the entry portion in order to distribute all of the energy towards the exit portion of the whip.

Thread graft before cutting it off.






Before and after cutting off the grafted whip. The remaining piece of trunk will be cut off next year and create a smooth transition into the now newly created leader.








The whip and trunk have now fused well together.






I let the tree grow in order to smooth transitions and heal large scars left from last spring's work.








A technique used to thicken areas of the tree, is to make close vertical cuts on the desired area to affect. This will make the trunk swell as the tree heals the cuts. Although conspicuous at the moment, these marks will eventually blend in and disappear as the bark matures.

 
A technique used to thicken areas of the tree, is to make close vertical cuts on the desired area to affect. This will make the trunk swell as the tree heals the cuts. Although conspicuous at the moment, these marks will eventually blend in and disappear as the bark matures.
You will get more thickening if you put some rooting hormone on those cuts when you make them (e.g., paint the cuts with, say, 3kppm IBA liquid).
 
You will get more thickening if you put some rooting hormone on those cuts when you make them (e.g., paint the cuts with, say, 3kppm IBA liquid).

Can you comment on why that works? Does it just stimulate a more robust healing reaction?
 
So the razor trick does work?

Mach....where were you when we were talking it bad?

Interesting!

Sorce
 
I thought "razor method" leaves marks for much too long. Im not sure about maple but I have seen tilia cordata bonsai with quite ugly marks decade after the technique was used.
 
I thought "razor method" leaves marks for much too long. Im not sure about maple but I have seen tilia cordata bonsai with quite ugly marks decade after the technique was used.

Maros, the cuts are superficial and the tree easily closes them up. It makes it very obvious at the moment because the area immediately next to it lifts up and dies turning grey just like older bark tissue. This is similar to when someone makes a cut and the older bark immediately around it flakes off as the cut heals over. I do not have prove yet of how it all looks after several years but I have a pretty good idea it will be ok seeing how other wounds and such heal over the years. I used this technique on this tree because its bark is already somewhat rough and textured. I would not do this on a perfectly smooth and clean Japanese maple trunk.

I would love to see how those cuts were made on the tilia.
 
Maros, the cuts are superficial and the tree easily closes them up. It makes it very obvious at the moment because the area immediately next to it lifts up and dies turning grey just like older bark tissue. This is similar to when someone makes a cut and the older bark immediately around it flakes off as the cut heals over. I do not have prove yet of how it all looks after several years but I have a pretty good idea it will be ok seeing how other wounds and such heal over the years. I used this technique on this tree because its bark is already somewhat rough and textured. I would not do this on a perfectly smooth and clean Japanese maple trunk.

I would love to see how those cuts were made on the tilia.


I use this technique on graft transitions that can be improved on to make it more seamless - just don't use it on nice smooth bark species where the trunk is highly visible.
 
Can you comment on why that works? Does it just stimulate a more robust healing reaction?
That is pretty much it.

If you've done much air-layering you've likely noticed that the stem thickens markedly above the girdle. This enhanced radial growth occurs because of accumulation of an excess of auxin.
 
Hi Mach,

I read that when thread grafting it is advisable to use a branch that is lower on the trunk than the hole that is being drilled. I noticed that you used a branch that is above the hole, with success! Can I please ask if there there are any precautions to take when breaking what I thought was a 'rule'?

Thank you
D
 
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