namnhi
Masterpiece
Definitely like the new design than the original.
Wow. Didn't see that coming. Brave move.
I have been pondering in the last few days doing this to my 3 trunk. I am not content with the direction, and the only way out is starting over. You certainly were successful with this makeover, so I'm encouraged to try....
Thanks for sharing this.
Hi Sergio. I think this was a good move. It took courage to do this, but I'm confident that a better tree will be the result.
A design question. You've envisioned the apex of the two main trunks to bend in opposite directions. Can you comment on that design choice? I can imagine another in which the apex of the two main trees pointed in the same direction by either using the existing top branch on the main trunk or threading it in the opposite direction to strengthen the overall movement of the composition to the right.
It's funny that when I look back on the first images of this tree, I'm surprised that you didn't chop it sooner... but I also know my thoughts today are biased because of the most recent pictures you've posted. You really did a great job improving the original composition with your work over the last few years, but I think you took it as far as it could go. Last summer's work, while technically a step or two backwards, will really move the tree way beyond where it's been previously. By the way, I've found those spur of the moment, saw in hand type decisions usually work out for the best... usually.
You will get more thickening if you put some rooting hormone on those cuts when you make them (e.g., paint the cuts with, say, 3kppm IBA liquid).A technique used to thicken areas of the tree, is to make close vertical cuts on the desired area to affect. This will make the trunk swell as the tree heals the cuts. Although conspicuous at the moment, these marks will eventually blend in and disappear as the bark matures.
You will get more thickening if you put some rooting hormone on those cuts when you make them (e.g., paint the cuts with, say, 3kppm IBA liquid).
I thought "razor method" leaves marks for much too long. Im not sure about maple but I have seen tilia cordata bonsai with quite ugly marks decade after the technique was used.
Maros, the cuts are superficial and the tree easily closes them up. It makes it very obvious at the moment because the area immediately next to it lifts up and dies turning grey just like older bark tissue. This is similar to when someone makes a cut and the older bark immediately around it flakes off as the cut heals over. I do not have prove yet of how it all looks after several years but I have a pretty good idea it will be ok seeing how other wounds and such heal over the years. I used this technique on this tree because its bark is already somewhat rough and textured. I would not do this on a perfectly smooth and clean Japanese maple trunk.
I would love to see how those cuts were made on the tilia.
That is pretty much it.Can you comment on why that works? Does it just stimulate a more robust healing reaction?