Although I tried to preserve most of the original material, early last year I became dissatisfied with the overall lanky design. I happen to be walking in the garden one day with saw in hand, and on the spur of the moment I chopped the tree more than half way down in just a couple of minutes cutting the trunks flat across. The deed was done! Now I left myself with no choice but to rethink the design.
I let it bud back and grow freely for the rest of the year without paying too much attention to it except watering and fertilizing it. In response to the drastic cutting back, the tree produced huge leaves, some almost 5" wide! It looked like a huge unwieldy weed by July.
Below is the maple as it looked in late February of this year. Long whips where left in case I needed to make thread grafts. They are gathered and tied together to make it easier to store the tree in winter.
As buds were beginning to swell, it was repotted into a smaller container. I used finely ground New Zealand sphagnum moss to cover the soil surface to prevent the fine surface roots from drying and encourage their development.
On the tallest trunk, unfortunately the new leader grew facing in when it should be facing out for better visual flow and balance. I decided to correct this with a thread graft. I first drilled a hole starting right at the spot where I needed the new leader, drilling right through to the other side of the trunk. The hole is made just big enough to fit the whip through taking care not to damage the buds in the process.
From the scraps of wood that were left from some pruned stubs, I made two small straight slivers. These are used to wedge them in between the whip and the hole in the trunk for a snug fit and prevent anything from moving at all. This is done on both ends.
The threaded whip with the wooden slivers in place on both sides. After ensuring a tight fit, the slivers are cut flush with the trunk for a clean finish. The whip is then wired.
The wired whip is then set into the desired position and cut paste is used on both ends to keep the area protected and prevent it from drying. The thread graft is now done. The graft will have taken after the exit side becomes thicker than its entry side. It is much safer to leave it alone longer than not before cutting the entry portion off.
The tree now restyled and less than half its original size. Only three trunks were kept. The other two I felt only made the image look too congested. Also, as I worked the tree, a better front than the one originally selected revealed itself which is shown below.
This is the intended design probably achievable in eight to ten years time.
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