don b
Yamadori
Unfortunately I didn't take a picture at the time. Immediately began research and treatment.
Sun/shade requirements of Acers
- Thread starter ConorDash
- Start date
don b
Yamadori
The only difference between your case and mine is maybe that I began treatment much sooner than you did. This is probably due to my background in medicine. I've gotten pretty well-versed at cross matching symptoms and ruling out various diagnoses. I can see why you went through the progression you did. First suspect: sun, then water, and finally nutrient deficiency.
But you believe, in your opinion, that it is a nutrient deficiency in mine?
All signs seem to point to it. Just good to get some more back up to that point
Hi Conor. The new growth and new leaves on your newest pictures doesn't look bad at all. Turn your intention on it... I still suspect too much water.
It's pretty easy to learn when it needs watering. You need few days off, or weekend. What is your w. schedule, or better said how often it needs to be watered. Let's say once in three days... Water on Wednesday. Then check it on Friday, if it doesn't ask water put it off for Saturday. On Saturday same... It can hardly be damaged if dry for few hours. Check it few times a day. I cannot believe this might have missed proper food being in GP or your care.
It's pretty easy to learn when it needs watering. You need few days off, or weekend. What is your w. schedule, or better said how often it needs to be watered. Let's say once in three days... Water on Wednesday. Then check it on Friday, if it doesn't ask water put it off for Saturday. On Saturday same... It can hardly be damaged if dry for few hours. Check it few times a day. I cannot believe this might have missed proper food being in GP or your care.
Hmm, well at the moment I'm off work having had surgery so I'm home constantly, so that's not a problem.
So far it's still only been watered with rainwater, so the acidity levels should be perfect for it, as Acers like a bit of acidity, which is exactly what rainwater is. I'm not limiting myself to only rainwater but so far I've got enough to be able to use it and not tap water yet.
Frequency, I'm using the chop stick and looking at the soil. At the moment, it's rained quite a bit and didn't have to water for a good 2-3 days. The chopstick is left in it all the time and taken out to see what it's like, I've been doing that for a few years.
When watered, its watered till it starts to drain out, which I believe is the correct way.
But you are right, that doesn't prove that my frequency is correct but I'm not sure what else I can do.
I'm not watering it on any schedule, only when it needs it, as judged by the chopstick, and the look of the soil. I also even dig a little in it with the chopstick to put my finger in and see too, so I feel like I'm doing quite a bit to test whether it needs watering or not.
The mix is largely inorganic with (what seems to be) chopped bark, but as I mentioned before, GP never told me the exact mix. So this should all but eliminate overwatering, at least.
What's telling you it's a watering issue?
Also please understanding I'm not discounting your suggestion in the slightest, I'm happy to try anything and everything and very appreciative of your post
. Just telling you what I do and what I'm trying at the moment, and my reasons for believing things.Oh, you're having the rain period.
What leads me...If not enough water in a short time you will find your DECIDUOUS tree starting wilting/withering. If you water immediately it will extend it's stems, young branches and leaves and leave no damage.
If it's always too wet, it can cause root dying and then root rot.
Playing with deci trees and finding dry leaf tips always first considered issue is watering. Try to watch the tree and water if it starts wilting... that will be your interval in a given conditions - sun, rain, temps...
On the other thread we talked about fertilizing. I linked WP's article and stated do it all or nothing. So if you're not 200% familiar with your soil content I would strictly follow recommended strength of fertilizer. It matters in case of the trees that are not OK. Remember, Xtra food is for Xtra growth, for strong healthy plants. Suggested fert strength is enough for plant health... Do not (over)suplement athletes on sick leave.
What leads me...If not enough water in a short time you will find your DECIDUOUS tree starting wilting/withering. If you water immediately it will extend it's stems, young branches and leaves and leave no damage.
If it's always too wet, it can cause root dying and then root rot.
Playing with deci trees and finding dry leaf tips always first considered issue is watering. Try to watch the tree and water if it starts wilting... that will be your interval in a given conditions - sun, rain, temps...
On the other thread we talked about fertilizing. I linked WP's article and stated do it all or nothing. So if you're not 200% familiar with your soil content I would strictly follow recommended strength of fertilizer. It matters in case of the trees that are not OK. Remember, Xtra food is for Xtra growth, for strong healthy plants. Suggested fert strength is enough for plant health... Do not (over)suplement athletes on sick leave.
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With my fert, it has been the recommended dosage, because I had no other dosage to go from, so it sounds like that was correct, at least by your explanation, so that's good.
The tree doesn't seem to be wilting, to be honest. It is a bit overgrown now because I've not been pruning it, but the new growth is coming out well and it does seem perky, I wouldn't say it was unhealthy, if not for the crispy leaves.
I read the article from WP, it was good. I'm not doing anything special with it, just want to get back to normal health before Autumn.
Our weather changes a lot, from a heavy down pour to nice sun for a few days. Are you suggesting to water it less, until it is drier than what I am currently doing?
If it rains heavily for a long period...consider placing it under a tree or some roof. Try to find max interval for watering.
If it were mine I would remove at least some portion of leaves that are more dry than alive (at least from the outer side of canopy) leaving leaf stems to open the tree interior to the light. It will provoke sleeping buds to wake up and sprout and revitalize the tree.
This sounds very good.
Yes, but find your safe max interval for certain conditions as stated above. I always do it with new species I am not familiar with.
It doesn't rain too long but sometimes very heavy, what kind of period would you recommend? Most of the water bounces off the canopy any way, with the umbrella affect but of course it all gets very wet, very quickly with heavy rain that lasts over 10 mins. I love it when it rains, feel like it gives my trees a really good soaking and somehow makes me feel better to know they had it (I only water the soil, not the tree itself when watering, so the rain does it all).
So a max interval of being in the rain, watering, and a max interval of time the tree being on the dry side before watering..
Ok these are interesting ideas, I've not thought of them before. I'm trying to currently get a feel for how the soil looks when dry compared to how to looks when dry enough to need watering, so I guess that would kind of be the interval mentioned. As for the amount of time it's rained upon, I assumed I wouldn't have to worry about that at all? I can't imagine people do that with all their trees, only allow certain amount of rain then run out to move them lol. Could you tell me more about what you mean? I've not thought of this before.
Sure there's nothing like a strict interval. I was talkiing about some safe maximum interval for all/every weather conditions. You should find out how often the tree needs to be watered in every situation...If it rains, if the sun shines, if the wind blows, if it frezes... No so simple, but no so complicated.
don b
Yamadori
Your saying that the new growth looks fine, which is a good thing, but what catches your eye are the damaged leaves causing you to keep thinking something is wrong. Those damaged leaves will stay damaged till leaf drop in fall. Try to ignore them to avoid over treating a healthy, slightly damaged tree. Good luck!
don b
Yamadori
Focus on the healthy new growth from here on out, if they start showing symptoms then it's time to start playing doctor again.
Oh ok, I get it.. But how would you find that out..? I mean, if the weather stays the same for 2-3 days, then you can record how often it needed water, for that particular weather, fine that's cool.
But for something like heavy rain 30 mins in a day, normal cloudy weather later in the day, sun next morning.. How could you get an answer on how long the interval is in random weather like that?
That's true, and I do know but it's easy to forget that, when the tree has these leaves. They won't change till they fall which they aren't much yet, they are falling very slowly.. They certainly hold for dear life before dropping.
I'll take some pics tomorrow of new growth and tell me what you think because some of the growth still has some issues, but some of it... Is weird looking. Like deformed. Maybe it's normal, maybe not. I'll do pics tomorrow when it's daylight.
Bear in mind that the problem, if it is a nutrient deficiency, could still be there and affect new growth because it hasn't been long that I have started this fert strategy and better watering frequency, only been just over a week. Second round of fert is due on Tuesday. So I'm aware it may take some time to be absorbed and take affect in the tree.
This needs only practicing. Someone stated here on the forum that it could take three years to learn how to water .
Yes I understand that, but the intervals between watering, I've never heard it described in this way before, this seems like something else entirely.
Unless I may have misunderstand you in some way lol. With its current mix, I don't believe overwatering can really happen much, I'm comfortable that I don't over water when I manually water it, and when it rains, well, there's not a whole lot anyone can do about that. Trees stay out in the rain and every other weather, it's what they do.
It was meant just as a test. For soil and how often it really needs watering growing in it. Not to set some strict interval routine. I know my soil, my trees are under the foofed balcony and are watered every day. Spring to fall. Except succulents. It is only my suspicion that this was caused by the sun or watering too much.
Ok no worries
well, we will find out soon, after I've given the fert some some time to do its job, if it still happens on new growth, I'll go back to the drawing boards.Similar threads
