Shimpaku Project

Looks great Brian. I think dropping the lower left branch really improves the image. Once you're able to grow some back branching to create depth, this will be a really fantastic tree.

Thanks for sharing!
 
I think we need to straighten all of this out: No more pinching or pruning... I think we should bite and nibble so that there is no longer any confusion. Bite woody areas, and nibble new growth.

This one is looking great Brian. :)

How about using Slap and Tickle, it just sounds more interesting....


ed
 
Here are 2 photos of the same area; one after about 5 months of growth, where you can see the cambium starting to swell up around the wound, and one from now, showing where we opened up one of the wounds a little more, and created a few new ones. The ovals serve several purposes:

1. Creating wounds that the tree responds to by callousing around; which gives us more character to work with later. Do a little at a time, rather than using power tools and the detail is more convincing...if you're not great at carving with power tools. More wood piling up around the wounds gives depth, character, and more wood to work with.

2. Redirecting the water-lines, or live veins around the wounds. If you look at the heavily carved shimps, you'll see several live veins winding up and around the deadwood. We're slowly but surely going to connect these ovals of deadwood, and we'll be left with these live veins that wind up and around the deadwood.

3. When an oval is carved, and the tree responds as described in #1 and #2 above, it creates some swelling around the wound, which we can use to make the trunk appear thicker. Carve an oval in the front, and the swelling on either side of the wound widens the trunk. Carve one on the outside of a bend, and bend becomes bigger. You can really use this to your advantage if you plan accordingly.

The second image shows an oval Kathy drew around an existing oval. She wanted to save this one for last, to see if the tree actually added wood, or if it was just the cambium swelling. In this location, the tree hadn't added wood here, so she decided to leave it alone for another year.

To Kirk's point, it is a very different, but a refreshing approach to work with Kathy because you don't leave with a finished tree, it's like going to Bonsai Class...you learn a TON, usually not in the area you expected, and you advance a tree, doing something this time for the tree to respond to, and we'll look at it's response next time.

The second time you carved the ovals...the one near the one which has healed...doesn't appear to be as deep as the first. I admire dead wood...now this you created...it was not there with the original design...correct?
 
Quick update...removed the lower left branch this spring, and will be tilting the left side up just a little.

1. After Bjorn's workshop
2. After removing the first left branch
3. After growing for several months
4. After pinching it back lightly, and connecting some of the ovals in the trunk

So back when you split the lower left branch...was this the reason for doing that? The planned removal at a later date?
 
Slightly off-topic, but as a follow up to post 34 on this thread, here is an update to the grip & rip Itoigawa after 5 months. It caught my eye this morning, maybe because I hadn't seen it in the daylight for a while, but the area that was "pinched" by ripping growing tips off looks damaged and retarded in growth compared to the rest of the bush.
 

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Repotted today, first root work since I received it in 2008. Supa-cheap bag pot, but good size and shape.
 

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wow, you had a busy day! You've officially jumped ahead of me in the repotting department. Like all the others, this one's looking good...didn't you leave this one out on the bench when it was like minus 15 in your yard this winter...and it lived:eek:.
 
wow, you had a busy day! You've officially jumped ahead of me in the repotting department. Like all the others, this one's looking good...didn't you leave this one out on the bench when it was like minus 15 in your yard this winter...and it lived:eek:.

Yes to all...busy day yesterday, did all 9 of my planned repots, leaving only 2 junipers that I'm planning to work on with Bjorn next weekend. Only have the Harry G. Itoigawa left to repot, and wanted to make a gameplan with Bjorn first before I repot it.
 
Very nice progress. The tree looks very healthy too. Thanks again! :)
 
Yes to all...busy day yesterday, did all 9 of my planned repots, leaving only 2 junipers that I'm planning to work on with Bjorn next weekend. Only have the Harry G. Itoigawa left to repot, and wanted to make a gameplan with Bjorn first before I repot it.

slow down and enjoy. or, speed up, finish, and come do some of mine....
 
Good progression Brian...I was very doubtful of the way the tree was at the beginning...now I want to see it near the finish line.
 
I would try to incorporate in the design some branches that will cover both straight upper sections of the trunk/big right branch...but I am sure you know that.
I see something like this...but I am used to the traditional style. In Japans you can drop a branch from behind...above...as long as they are not crossing and you maintain the levels.
 

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Had some time to work this one back; unwired and pruned back after being allowed to grow with little more than trimming for the last 18 months. The Shari was extended further, and rewired.

Also testing to see if I can upload from PC, while iOS8 is not playing nice with the forum...
 

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