Mame pots on a mini pottery wheel

These low fire clays would be good for tropicals but wouldnt be ideal for year round outside trees in cold climates, right?
 
Orion_metalhead said:
These low fire clays would be good for tropicals but wouldnt be ideal for year round outside trees in cold climates, right?
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The issue with low fire clay bodies is that the absorption rate is to high. Low fire clay cannot withstand multiple freeze thaw cycles because they absorb to much water. Other than that they're perfectly fine to use, just don't let them freeze.
 
Here's a hybrid pot I finished a couple days ago. The wall was turned on the wheel and then the bottom was removed. I slightly compressed it to create an oval shape. The bottom was a slab of clay rolled out and slip attached. The feet came out of a mold I previously made. It's different and I really like it. Trying to figure out to glaze or leave it unglazed.

20210801_231617.jpg20210801_231641.jpg20210801_231656.jpg
 
Pitoon said:
Here's a hybrid pot I finished a couple days ago. The wall was turned on the wheel and then the bottom was removed. I slightly compressed it to create an oval shape. The bottom was a slab of clay rolled out and slip attached. The feet came out of a mold I previously made. It's different and I really like it. Trying to figure out to glaze or leave it unglazed.

View attachment 389455View attachment 389456View attachment 389457
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I am a big fan of unglazed pots but I think this one needs a nice drippy glaze to take advantage of the tall sides which resemble a blank canvas.
 
penumbra said:
I am a big fan of unglazed pots but I think this one needs a nice drippy glaze to take advantage of the tall sides which resemble a blank canvas.
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I have a glaze combo in mind, but not sure how the glazes will react with this clay body.
 
penumbra said:
Is this clay low fire or mid/high?
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It's a mid fire clay matures at Cone 6, but Standard recommends Cone 5 . But I'm thinking the added manganese in this clay body has reactions with certain glazes.
 
Pitoon said:
It's a mid fire clay matures at Cone 6, but Standard recommends Cone 5 . But I'm thinking the added manganese in this clay body has reactions with certain glazes.
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Is the clay 266 or 710? I have had no problems at all with either but I have heard that some have. I always fire a full cone 6 with no hold.
 
It's 710. That shop that deals with the used kilns do they usually have test kilns available?
 
I also have 266, but it dried up on me. I have to rehydrate it when I get a chance.
 
Pitoon said:
It's 710. That shop that deals with the used kilns do they usually have test kilns available?
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That is The Kiln Doctor Inc. Mike Swauger is the man. He knows more about kilns than anyone. I worked with him for 6 years. Last time I was in the store he had two small test kilns. Give him a call, 1-877-kilndoc, he will treat you right.
Pitoon said:
I also have 266, but it dried up on me. I have to rehydrate it when I get a chance.
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I believe 710 was developed because some people were experiencing bloating with 266. A bit of grog was added to 266 to become 710. I am not sure if anything else was done as I never inquires having never had a problem with either.
Do yourself a favor and check with Mike.
 
penumbra said:
That is The Kiln Doctor Inc. Mike Swauger is the man. He knows more about kilns than anyone. I worked with him for 6 years. Last time I was in the store he had two small test kilns. Give him a call, 1-877-kilndoc, he will treat you right.

I believe 710 was developed because some people were experiencing bloating with 266. A bit of grog was added to 266 to become 710. I am not sure if anything else was done as I never inquires having never had a problem with either.
Do yourself a favor and check with Mike.
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I'm going to give him a call. The test kiln at the studio has been down for two weeks now. It's really putting me back from getting to my mid-August completion date for Batch #2.
 
Pitoon said:
I also have 266, but it dried up on me. I have to rehydrate it when I get a chance.
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BTW, easiest way to re hydrate clay is to open the bag, ( being certain it is airtight) add a little water and place entire sealed bag in a bucket of water. It may sound odd but if you think about it you will find it very logical. Depending upon how dray the clay is it will be ready to use in a day to a week. If it is just a little too dry, a quarter cup of water an a bag soaking overnight will do it. Drier requires more water, half to a cup, and a longer soak. I have done both. I have even taken rock hard clay that was years old and re hydrated it, though the soak took adding additional water and a soak for a couple of weeks.
Better to add a little water and add more if needed. If your clay is too wet you have to let it dry out a bit.
Enjoyed the chat but I will be away until late afternoon.
 
Pitoon said:
Finished painting these pots a little while ago. I'm curious to see how they will look after they are fired with the clear glaze. I have a new appreciation for painted pots........it's not an easy task.

Who wants to guess the glaze?

View attachment 390370View attachment 390371
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I can't wait to see!
 
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