Japanese Maple cuttings [From start to finish: A Guide]

[Canada Bonsai]

unfortunately you ended up on one of the worst threads right here [...] nobody cares about this thread.

Well, that's if you choose to only see the negative

I was looking for some information on the timing of JM cuttings

@MAKman the answer to your question can be found at this post, #59 above, in this thread @Nelis . But to answer your question more directly @MAKman : it sounds like you're in a warmer part of the northern hemisphere. In general, the optimal time for each tree in the northern hemisphere will be a short 7-10 day window within late April to early July. For me, in Halifax Nova Scotia, the optimal time occurs from May 15 to June 15, depending on the tree and year. In my experience, the best way to determine what the optimal time is for each tree/shoot is with the 'snap test' (see link).

It was a question I was getting everyday via Facebook/instagram/email in spring/summer, so I created this handout: https://www.canadabonsai.com/pages/japanese-maple-propagation

I have dealt with other cuttings for years whose environment can be artificially manipulated

This is crucial for high success rates. You want to minimize evaporation with high humidity, keep good air flow (but no drying winds! -- I use fans), and use bottom heat. I use artificial lights as well.

 

[AlainK]

So far, I've only done summer cuttings with the plain species, or a few cultivars (95% success), and many years ago, a few late winter cuttings (about 20% success).

I have this link in my "library", maybe that can help you :

https://vtechworks.lib.vt.edu/bitstream/handle/10919/46539/Phillips.pdf

 

[MAKman]

Thank you. I read and downloaded your two tutorials. They were so helpful. I initially thought that I could manipulate the physiology of the plant through an adjustment of lighting hours (essentially tricking it into thinking it was spring again). Clearly that is not possible.I have just acquired a Shaina, Orangeola, Sango Kaku, Katsura and Autumn Moon in 1 gallon pots. I intended to place 3 of them normally in the yard, but get a head start and take cuttings immediately for potential bonsai down the road. Instead, February will be when when I may start the process. Thank you again. Much appreciated.

 

[Coppersdad]

japanese maple cuttings escape me.

I struggled with Japanese maple soft wood cuttings too. This year I tried air layering Japanese maple limbs. The project was a little ambitious for me in that I chose limbs 1.5cm to 3cm in diameter at the point of the bark removal. I had 2 successes in the five trials. This was during our Pacific Northwest heatwave where the temperature reached 114 degrees F (45.5 C ) in our yard.
Interestingly, the successes were the limbs in deep shade and the failures were more exposed to sunlight.
It took almost 70 days to produce usable roots. Of course, there was a great deal of foliage on the harvested limbs. I remove about 80% of the foliage at the time of potting and have kept the pots in deep shade. Since both successes were on the same tree, I wonder if the variety of A. palmatum may have more vigor than the other two specimens I tried.
I'm encouraged and will try to refine my attempts with a larger sample next season.
Comments and observations are welcome.

 

[andrewiles]

I struggled with Japanese maple soft wood cuttings too. This year I tried air layering Japanese maple limbs. The project was a little ambitious for me in that I chose limbs 1.5cm to 3cm in diameter at the point of the bark removal. I had 2 successes in the five trials. This was during our Pacific Northwest heatwave where the temperature reached 114 degrees F (45.5 C ) in our yard.
Interestingly, the successes were the limbs in deep shade and the failures were more exposed to sunlight.
It took almost 70 days to produce usable roots. Of course, there was a great deal of foliage on the harvested limbs. I remove about 80% of the foliage at the time of potting and have kept the pots in deep shade. Since both successes were on the same tree, I wonder if the variety of A. palmatum may have more vigor than the other two specimens I tried.
I'm encouraged and will try to refine my attempts with a larger sample next season.
Comments and observations are welcome.

I'm in Seattle as well and I tried a number of maple air layers this summer. Some successes and failures, like you.

My experience has been that some JM cultivars layer much better than others. I also found that layers tend to fail more frequently on thin branches, as you're more prone to having the sapwood die back, esp. if you slice into it when prepping the layer. There just isn't very much of it.

I also had an air layer that was started in May and formed a knobby callus, but no roots. In August I wounded the callus and reapplied CloneX, and it is now rooting. So in at least some cases you can give it a nudge if it's not behaving.

Lastly, I don't think removing top growth after separation is what you want. Better to keep that, only separating after you have a healthy set of roots to maintain the top, and keep the new tree in shade as long as needed.

 

[kame]

I'm in Seattle as well and I tried a number of maple air layers this summer. Some successes and failures, like you.

My experience has been that some JM cultivars layer much better than others. I also found that layers tend to fail more frequently on thin branches, as you're more prone to having the sapwood die back, esp. if you slice into it when prepping the layer. There just isn't very much of it.

I also had an air layer that was started in May and formed a knobby callus, but no roots. In August I wounded the callus and reapplied CloneX, and it is now rooting. So in at least some cases you can give it a nudge if it's not behaving.

Lastly, I don't think removing top growth after separation is what you want. Better to keep that, only separating after you have a healthy set of roots to maintain the top, and keep the new tree in shade as long as needed.

Also in Seattle... Can you tell me more details about wounding the callus? I did 10 air layers from the end of March through mid-April. the five on regular green palmatum rooted fine and were cut off in late Aug after the heat wave. Five on Osakazuki done with the identical method: full bark removal, rooting hormone, sphagnum moss and plastic. These all calloused and the leaves went bright red by the end of Sept - I assume the branches are dying or drying out (?). Any suggestions? I cut a one off just to get photos, but left the rest alone to see if they will root next year.

 

[andrewiles]

Also in Seattle... Can you tell me more details about wounding the callus? I did 10 air layers from the end of March through mid-April. the five on regular green palmatum rooted fine and were cut off in late Aug after the heat wave. Five on Osakazuki done with the identical method: full bark removal, rooting hormone, sphagnum moss and plastic. These all calloused and the leaves went bright red by the end of Sept - I assume the branches are dying or drying out (?). Any suggestions? I cut a one off just to get photos, but left the rest alone to see if they will root next year.

View attachment 402104

View attachment 402105

I think the leaves going red and/or falling off prematurely are a sign of impending death for the branch. The wood under the cut slowly dies, and the thinner the branch the faster this seems to happen. So for me at least, with the small branches I'm doing, if I don't get roots in one summer it's ususally a lost cause.

I've been using transparent wrapping for my air layers so if I don't see roots by the midpoint in the season I can open them up and figure out what's happening.

I don't know if scraping the callus helps, but I've been doing it when I see a strong callus forming but no roots, esp. in situations like yours where the callus is about to bridge the gap. I'd have removed the part on the bottom that's creeping up and scraped the leading edge of the top a bit with a sharp knife. I don't have any actual insight into whether this helps. Applying more rooting hormone is probably more important.

And really, it seems some cultivars just don't want to layer. I don't know of any definitive source for which ones do so easily so you just have to try them.

 

[Vali]

These all calloused and the leaves went bright red by the end of Sept - I assume the branches are dying or drying out (?)

Not necessarily. This happened both last and this year with a euonymus I'm layering. It started growing normally in spring and it is now rooted. Don't give up just yet. I would wait to see what next year brings

 

[63pmp]

JM can be done, just depends on the cultivar. I successfully rooted Shindeshojo and Kashima, no success with shishigashira, coralinum or okushimo. I found shishigashira would air layer easily enough. Things that helped was to use sterile perlite medium, bottom heat, artificial light for approx 14 hours/day, IBA 4000 powder, high humidity. Only one node in the potting medium and 1 set of leaves above.

 

[Sadrice]

It is on the internet so it must be true!

Did not knw one could do this. In our arboretum there is a 160 year old maple. Will go out tonight and cut it down to take cuttings

I’m definitely going to have to use this one my boss as an excuse…

However this thread has been so helpful. I agree with OP about one thing. While Japanese maple cutting propagation is well documented, it is kinda frustratingly hard to google. Before this thread that article from VTech was just about the only thing I could find on the internet that wasn’t generic bullshit advice. Michael Dirr’s Woody Plant Propagation was very helpful, but the internet mostly was not.

 

[ceriano]

Just curious, which Japanese maples can be successfully grown from cutting? I heard some are really hard to root.

 

[SeanS]

Just curious, which Japanese maples can be successfully grown from cutting? I heard some are really hard to root.

Japanese Maples that Root from Cuttings

For the benefit of all B nutters, self included, I would love to have here a list of Japanese Maples that others have success in rooting from either cuttings or air layers. As a logical starting point it was suggested that all of the maples listed at Evergreen Gardenworks are rooted. So I thank...

www.bonsainut.com

 

[ceriano]

Japanese Maples that Root from Cuttings

For the benefit of all B nutters, self included, I would love to have here a list of Japanese Maples that others have success in rooting from either cuttings or air layers. As a logical starting point it was suggested that all of the maples listed at Evergreen Gardenworks are rooted. So I thank...

www.bonsainut.com

Excellent thanks! What’s the difference between expensive rooting gels like Clonex vs cheap powdered stuff from big box stores? Are they worth it?

 

[KiwiPlantGuy]

Excellent thanks! What’s the difference between expensive rooting gels like Clonex vs cheap powdered stuff from big box stores? Are they worth it?

Hi,
Yes the gel is totally worth it because as it is semi liquid it is absorbed more easily than the powder which might not stick at all.
This thread has been entertaining lol.
Hope my answer helps,
Charles

 

[Carol 83]

Hi,
Yes the gel is totally worth it because as it is semi liquid it is absorbed more easily than the powder which might not stick at all.
This thread has been entertaining lol.
Hope my answer helps,
Charles

I have had much more success with cuttings using Clonex vs. rooting powder. Not maples, just in general.

 

[Ming dynasty]

This is what I use for all my cuttings, and which works well.

Bonsai propagation by cuttings in spring - Growing Bonsai

Taking cuttings is a perfect way to get more plants of your favorite type. Thi spring, I decided to try some Arakawa japanese maple cuttings.

www.growingbonsai.net

When it’s in a bag like that do you ever open for air to get in or how does that work?

 

[leatherback]

When it’s in a bag like that do you ever open for air to get in or how does that work?

hardly ever. Maybe once every 4-6 weeks to check for dead leaves

 

[Ming dynasty]

hardly ever. Maybe once every 4-6 weeks to check for dead leaves

Mid spring early may is ideal for airlayer. Have anyone tried it around now?

 

[Ming dynasty]

This is what I use for all my cuttings, and which works well.

Bonsai propagation by cuttings in spring - Growing Bonsai

Taking cuttings is a perfect way to get more plants of your favorite type. Thi spring, I decided to try some Arakawa japanese maple cuttings.

www.growingbonsai.net

Is the bag necessary? Can it be stored under bench?

 

[leatherback]

Is the bag necessary? Can it be stored under bench?

TO me, it is key as it prevents wind & dry air to dry out the cuttings.