Japanese Red Maple Cuttings

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Location
Oklahoma City
USDA Zone
7a
Greeting all.
I have a friend who is moving. He has a sweet maple tree that has to stay with the house 😞 The leaves look like this but darker red, almost a purple
Maple leife.jpg
Is it too late in the year to try and get some cuttings?
My friend would like to have another tree like that and I would love to have one as a bonsai.
I know that its probably too late but I have to ask. While I'm here when is the best time of year to get cuttings from deciduous trees like maple, crepe myrtle, cherry, apple?
Thank for all of your help.
 
I've found maple cuttings difficult but others seem to have no problems. Here's one thread that might have some clues to how and when. https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/japanese-maple-cuttings-from-start-to-finish-a-guide.48957/
If you search the site you should find other threads and help.

Many other deciduous trees strike from cuttings taken around the end of the growing season for me. Late season seems to give the cuttings a chance to callus up before dormancy so they are ready to push roots and new leaves come spring. Note that our winters are mild so I'm not sure how that timing will work with your extra cold winters.
Some apple varieties seem to strike easily while others are less likely to strike.
Crepe myrtle are usually very easy.
Unsure of cherry as I've not tried them as cuttings.

Dormant winter hardwood cuttings are also used to strike many deciduous species. They will need protection so they don't dehydrate over winter but dormant cuttings are relatively easy to strike.
 
Been dabbling around for 20 years. Finally, this year i tried air layering for the first time and turned out great! Several times I tried rooting cuttings throughout the growing season. None took. I usually take good notes, but not on the cuttings. I now have 10 that worked, but i dont know when i cut them, from which tree, or what rooting medium i used. I kinda remember sand, potting soil, and perlite. I had 2 small flats that i finally just neglected after so many failures. One day as the growing season was running out of steam, I saw these sitting in a corner. Leaves were still green. I gently worked each one out to check on roots- glory be!! All had some form of roots. Most were very healthy, so I up potted them and after a month they are still doing good and actually turning red- what leaves I left on them. Most I cut in half. Living in NE Texas, should I leave these outside, nestled in leaves and pine straw to protect from our 'frigid' 25 degree-days? Or should I put them up in our insulated attic, where it might get down to 50, maybe 45? If so, with a light, or just in the dark? I'm excited that they took. Gonna try again next year with plenty of notes. Success is so much fun!
 
I plan to leave my cuttings outside, no protection for the winter. Over the last 3 to 4 yrs I've tried cuttings I've lost very few. Just protect them from animals and wind if you can and pot them up in spring. .
 
well, we got down to 22 degrees last week and stayed below 32 for 2-3 days . I brought in the freshly rooted cuttings just to save them from freezing since they were relatively newly planted up into their own containers. Is it too much shock on them to bring in and out based on the temp getting below 32 degrees? Our upstairs insulated attic area only got down to 55 during that time. That's where they are now, after starting out down here with us in the living room where the wood stove has been constantly going ( we love it!) I don't mind spending extra effort to enable these the best rate of survivability, we have a simple lifestyle. No kids and not into so many worldly things that we deem a waste of valuable time. Thanks for hearing me out, any advice is welcome. Hopefully I can develop advice someday.
 
It would be best if one had a location that was below 42-45F and above 32F. This will keep the rooted cuttings dormant.

That said, many trees and shrubs are reputed to be able to survive for one year without dormancy. For example, we shepherded azaleas, ezo spruces, fudo junipers and a couple maple seedlings through the winter in our garage grow area… (azalea's multiple years). All survived, most very healthy.

The issues one faces in this circumstance are the microorganisms in the soil will not be dormant above these temperatures, nor will the cuttings or insect larva. Thus be prepared to provide sufficient light, water, mild fertilizer and prevention against fungus, insects etc throughout the winter.

Finally one must properly harden off the seedlings once t(e winter has passed.

Cheers
DSD sends
 
Just reiterating, the cuttings would be best dormant.

Good luck
DSdD I’m
 
I've had no problem bringing recently-rooted cuttings indoors for the winter. One year without a dormancy is fine. Just don't go for two years.
 
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