Japanese maple #5 progression

[JudyB]

Blazing HOT!

 

[Johnnyd]

Chris in this particular case I will make two cuts since the trunk has swellings on both sides. The trunk is slightly thicker than a pencil so it should be pretty easy. I'll make a concave cut in order to take all the "ugliness" out on the one side. Generally the cuts need to be deep enough or you'll end up with a lump again as the cambium rolls over. Then once the wound has healed, I'll make the second cut on the other side to finish refining the area. I can't to do it all in one go since the trunk is rather slim. Additionally, all small buds here will be cut off to prevent further swelling.

I have had this problem with some maples as far as ugly knots and swellings and even reverse taper. Through cutting and carving, sometimes rather aggressively, I have been able to redefine the outline of a given trunk or branch joint. I hope this helps any.


Incidentally, I am still working on many areas of this tree as far as refining improperly or carelessly made cuts by the original grower.

Thank you for sharing. This is very inspiring. I have a question regarding smoothing out bumps. Would you recommend using a dremel with a sanding or fine grinding bit. And if you grind down too far hitting the cambium could it make things worse?

 

[MACH5]

Thank you for sharing. This is very inspiring. I have a question regarding smoothing out bumps. Would you recommend using a dremel with a sanding or fine grinding bit. And if you grind down too far hitting the cambium could it make things worse?

John, I always do my cuts with a pair of concave or knob cutters depending on the size of the branch I am dealing with. That is what I would recommend over using a dremel. I believe you have much more control with the cutters. Make sure your cuts are clean and slightly concave. If need be, afterwards clean and smooth out your cut with a grafting knife and seal it. I highly stress using good and sharp tools. I have seen folks in workshops with tools that barely cut through paper!!

 

[Johnnyd]

John, I always do my cuts with a pair of concave or knob cutters depending on the size of the branch I am dealing with. That is what I would recommend over using a dremel. I believe you have much more control with the cutters. Make sure your cuts are clean and slightly concave. If need be, afterwards clean and smooth out your cut with a grafting knife and seal it. I highly stress using good and sharp tools. I have seen folks in workshops with tools that barely cut through paper!!

Thanks Sergio! Something to keep busy after winterizing. Sharpening tools!

 

[SantaFeBonsai]

Sergio, it’s stunning.

May I ask what’s your backdrop? Cloth or board and what’s the dimensions? 18% grey?

 

[atlarsenal]

Sergio, it’s stunning.

May I ask what’s your backdrop? Cloth or board and what’s the dimensions? 18% grey?

@MACH5 i am interested in this as well. I am trying to improve on my photography and really like your grey background.

 

[MACH5]

Sergio, it’s stunning.

May I ask what’s your backdrop? Cloth or board and what’s the dimensions? 18% grey?

@NorthTXacer Thank you. It's just grey paint flat finish. It was painted a light cream color before and just wanted to try something new.

 

[ajm55555]

Sergio, I looked back at some pictures of this tree in Fall 2016 and there seems to be a hole on the right side. Did it lose some branches there or it's just how it's growing?

 

[MACH5]

Sergio, I looked back at some pictures of this tree in Fall 2016 and there seems to be a hole on the right side. Did it lose some branches there or it's just how it's growing?

Andrew, yes that is how the tree was growing. In fact, if I had to exhibit the tree based on the last photo I posted, I would have created more of those “holes” or “windows” to see into the tree. It is too dense for my taste but I wanted to feature the colorful foliage more so than the tree itself.

 

[Gary McCarthy]

Looking forward to seeing a bare naked photo after leaf drop

 

[AndyJ]

I love this tree and the progression - thank you Sergio, for taking the time to document the development of these last few years. Each time you post an update, I feel compelled to go back and read the entire thread again - it's brilliant for a novice like me to see what can be achieved.

I wasn't sure about the two new trunks at first but they add something different to the image - grafting airlayers onto the parent is not something I had considered before but I am now planning for one or two of my trees.

Thank you again

Andy

 

[MACH5]

Winter update. The tree continues to move forward. Looking now for a slightly larger pot for it of similar shape and style; low profile with a lip. Some areas including the small secondary trunks still need futher development. Apex as is common still a bit too vigorous but slowly managing its strength back to be more in line with the rest of the tree.
















Root graft made several years ago has healed well and growing to match the size of other secondary roots around the nebari. Below is a
photo showing the location of the root graft and a close up of it.








Same root graft after it was severed from the parent tree after it had fused. I usually leave a stump for several months up to a year to be safe and ensure the union is solid before it gets completely removed with a slightly concave cut.






Root graft now several years later. This is a great technique to help improve the nebari on a tree.

 

[C-Jewel]

Absolutely stunning. I just read every comment and all of your progression on this tree and your vision is amazing! Very well done! You have inspired me.
Question,
1. if I’m working from a 6 foot tall seedling, 2” base, would you chop and plant in the ground or chop and plant in say an Anderson flat? Or a wood box to let grow again?
2. If planted in growing box, straight akadama? Or a mix of lava, pumice, akadama?
2. What height would you chop to? Would you chop flat or angled?
3. Would you trim roots and plant on board or tile to begin root flare for nabari?

Thanks in advance for any insight and advice! Lovely work

 

[MACH5]

Absolutely stunning. I just read every comment and all of your progression on this tree and your vision is amazing! Very well done! You have inspired me.
Question,
1. if I’m working from a 6 foot tall seedling, 2” base, would you chop and plant in the ground or chop and plant in say an Anderson flat? Or a wood box to let grow again?
Plant it in an Anderson or my preference in a wooden box. You don't have same degree of control when things are in the ground, particularly when you are starting to develop the branch structure.
2. If planted in growing box, straight akadama? Or a mix of lava, pumice, akadama?
I typically use straight akadama. Sometimes mixed in with some kyriu sand.
2. What height would you chop to? Would you chop flat or angled?
Always flat cut and then wait to see where you get back budding. Let those buds grow. Then select your leader. Afterwards you make an angle cut to create a more beautiful and smooth transition in the trunk line. Height ultimately depends on what you want your design to be. Do you want a taller and elegant tree or short and stocky?
3. Would you trim roots and plant on board or tile to begin root flare for nabari?
You certainly can use the board technique. But it is also not the only way to create a good nebari. Time, good technique and discipline properly working the roots creates good nebaris.

Thanks in advance for any insight and advice! Lovely work

Thank @C-Jewel for the kind words. Please see my responses in red above.

 

[C-Jewel]

Thank you so much for the advice??

 

[Nanuk]

Well done sir. It's guys like you that inspire us to reach for it.
Fantastic looking tree.

 

[just.wing.it]

Killer stuff here!

 

[AlainK]

Great, great, great.

 

[MACH5]

Well done sir. It's guys like you that inspire us to reach for it.
Fantastic looking tree.

Thank you @Nanuk. In turn, I have been and continue to be inspired by many folks here. So in the end we all push each other to do our best.

 

[MACH5]

Slowly coming out of winter and ramping up for spring.