Japanese maple #5 progression

I was going to comment similarly. Even my poor unrefined trees suffer in 2d and I hesitate to even take pics became of the inevitable disappointment, which makes trees that manage to look good in 2d pics even more remarkable. If I look carefully I can see the front to back movement in the trunk of this tree that is still there from the first pic you show from a different front that I’m sure would make the trunk line more interesting in person, and would likely help the minor trunks as well.
 
MACH5 said:
The trouble with photos is that inevitably flattens out anyhting we do. That branch is way back. As I work with the smaller trunks, I think that area will need to be further sorted out ie. apex will be taller and mimic the direction of the parent tree etc. I felt I posted a pretty good photo but when compared to the real thing is much flatter. Branches even cross to soften the trunk line in spots while in the photo it almost appears as if one can see that line naked all the way to the top. That's the beauty of trying to translate sculpture into a 2d medium. A mostly futile exercise.
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I understand.

Nevertheless, I did some playing with virtuals for my own 'enlightenment'. I played with several ideas, but only one seemed to make matters better for me. What I hit upon was that there is one branch near the top that has the same 'nuance' as the 3 little piggies. Another branch lower down, closer to the piggies, echoing that same nuance, helps ease my 2D visual discomfort. MachMapleModa.jpg

Were I a well-mannered person I would not have posted this (sometimes the obvious needs stating). But I am not so young ... I just want to have a sense of how to make poetry that doesn't read as 'Roses are red, violets are blue ...; which is what my trees do! (ahh, getting better already :D)
 
0soyoung said:
I understand.

Nevertheless, I did some playing with virtuals for my own 'enlightenment'. I played with several ideas, but only one seemed to make matters better for me. What I hit upon was that there is one branch near the top that has the same 'nuance' as the 3 little piggies. Another branch lower down, closer to the piggies, echoing that same nuance, helps ease my 2D visual discomfort. View attachment 186174

Were I a well-mannered person I would not have posted this (sometimes the obvious needs stating). But I am not so young ... I just want to have a sense of how to make poetry that doesn't read as 'Roses are red, violets are blue ...; which is what my trees do! (ahh, getting better already :D)
Click to expand...


Oso thanks for the analysis. Always welcomed!


I think the overlapping of branches in 2d reads very differently in 3d. But... if we were to argue that still doesn't justify it, I would say that in your virt it looks to me that everyone is avoiding touching one another. The right side has also become too light and the tree has lost a bit of balance at least in my eyes. Too heavy now on one side. The distance between these some of these branches is quite great from front to back.

Specifically on the small trunk, I think it is perfectly acceptable and even dimensionally appealing to have that back branch go gently across it. It's all part of the background. If that back branch happened to be somehow in front, then that would be problematic as it would stop the eye from going further into seeing the trunks.

Once again, and not necessarily trying to change your opinion, but be aware that the read in 3d is dramatically different that looking at the much flatter 2d view of a photo where branches may appear to be on top of each other etc.

With all that said, thank you truly for your time and remarks as always! :)
 
Velodog2 said:
I was going to comment similarly. Even my poor unrefined trees suffer in 2d and I hesitate to even take pics became of the inevitable disappointment, which makes trees that manage to look good in 2d pics even more remarkable. If I look carefully I can see the front to back movement in the trunk of this tree that is still there from the first pic you show from a different front that I’m sure would make the trunk line more interesting in person, and would likely help the minor trunks as well.
Click to expand...


VD, the current trunk line is the best I found for this design taking in consideration root base, movement, trunk features vs flaws etc. The trunk not only moves sideways but also has a subtle but noticeable movement midway up towards the viewer. Then slightly back and away coming again towards the viewer at the top. In my opinion subtle but elegant.

The other views offer more trunk line angle changes that while may be generally desirable, I felt it to be in discordance with the intended design.
 
MACH5 said:
Once again, and not necessarily trying to change your opinion, but be aware that the read in 3d is dramatically different that looking at the much flatter 2d view of a photo where branches may appear to be on top of each other etc.

With all that said, thank you truly for your time and remarks as always! :)
Click to expand...
No. No thanks to me.

Thanks to you for the discussion. That is all I wanted.

I still have not made it very far beyond the day my wife said to me, "You know why you like it don't you?" And I had to answer, "No, no idea." She then explained how the image (a painting) was arranged around a diagonal; blah, blah, blah. It just doesn't come naturally to me, so I must have the most pecuniary things magnified for me to even begin to 'get it'.

Thanks again for the discussion. :)
Magnificent.
 
0soyoung said:
No. No thanks to me.

Thanks to you for the discussion. That is all I wanted.

I still have not made it very far beyond the day my wife said to me, "You know why you like it don't you?" And I had to answer, "No, no idea." She then explained how the image (a painting) was arranged around a diagonal; blah, blah, blah. It just doesn't come naturally to me, so I must have the most pecuniary things magnified for me to even begin to 'get it'.

Thanks again for the discussion. :)
Magnificent.
Click to expand...


I think you do get it Oso! Way more visually insightful than you might give yourself credit for. You may not know exactly why perhaps but you're on it!
 
Even with the temperature setbacks, your tree is quite amazing. I'm pretty sure the small branches will come back eventually.
 
thumblessprimate1 said:
Pretty pretty spring leaves.
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They are pretty! I think I had mentioned that this tree originated from a seedling from an arakawa maple tree growing in the ground in NC. This tree never developed the rough bark but its leaves are small, sharply pointed and deeply incised giving the tree a more delicate appearance.
 
@MACH5 This is the second progression post I have read from you and Man is really inspirational. I felt in love with that Amur Maple tree I really like the leaves on that deciduous. I am a newbie, I love Maples. I have a couple of questions and I hope you don't mind... I am bit confused on the wiring part of a Maple (Today I have just wired the lower Brunches and the Apex of my tree) and bit worry of the scars.
I have seen all you Maples wired but some one says that I should not wire the brunches and only pull the limbs down in a different way to avoid scars.
My questions are: When is the optimal period to wire the Maple I guess from Spring to Fall? How long you leave the wire on before removing to avoid scars (I have seen that you use floral tape to buy some time too)? After removal do you apply the wire again if needed or you wait a bit for the tree to heal before a second application?

SilverioSan Maple.jpg

Thanks a lot for the help.
 
Thanks Silverio. I think they mean using guy wires instead of wiring a branch. Guy wires can be very useful but you won't achieve the desire results with just using them as it just bends the branch in one direction which usually is down. Fine wiring allows you to precisely shape, set and position your branches where they are needed.

You should never avoid wiring because of fear of scars. But, you must also be very vigilant. I usually do most of my wiring in late winter/early spring. By June I usually will need to remove all the wires since by this time they will start to bite in. It is ok to let them dig a bit into the branch. Removal of them too early will not allow the branch to set in its intended shape and/or location. Usually on a healthy vigorous tree, it only takes a couple of months (or less) for wire to bite in. It takes keen observation and diligence to ensure your wire does not do irreparable damage. Bonsai is not for the lazy or forgetful. I don't recommend wiring a maple in fall or mid winter for those of us in cold northern climates.

As my maples mature, I wire less and let their natural growth habit shine through to achieve a more natural look and appearance.
 
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SilverioSan said:
@MACH5 This is the second progression post I have read from you and Man is really inspirational. I felt in love with that Amur Maple tree I really like the leaves on that deciduous. I am a newbie, I love Maples. I have a couple of questions and I hope you don't mind... I am bit confused on the wiring part of a Maple (Today I have just wired the lower Brunches and the Apex of my tree) and bit worry of the scars.
I have seen all you Maples wired but some one says that I should not wire the brunches and only pull the limbs down in a different way to avoid scars.
My questions are: When is the optimal period to wire the Maple I guess from Spring to Fall? How long you leave the wire on before removing to avoid scars (I have seen that you use floral tape to buy some time too)? After removal do you apply the wire again if needed or you wait a bit for the tree to heal before a second application?

View attachment 198855

Thanks a lot for the help.
Click to expand...


Silverio,
How old are your trees?
 
TooCoys said:
Silverio,
How old are your trees?
Click to expand...

To be honest I am not entirely sure but I would say between 3 and 5 years. I got the tree this year, in the picture is only one is before and after the wire.
 
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