Potawatomi13
Imperial Masterpiece
This might be surprise but many times these high altitude or mountain trees that grow in rocks have very small root systems. Sometimes unbelievably small. This is one reason that some of best ones are eminently collectible and can even go in pot right away. Others have some unwieldy root systems that take some time(years maybe)in growing boxes to make them pottable. This particular tree was potted from a box after 2-5 years I think. This potting shown on Ryans old blog which unfortunately gone. There were about 5 people on this project. Old and developed Yamadori(pines at least)can be left 10-15 years or more in one potting. This I have gathered from folks far more knowledgable than self.
They generally come to us near ready for finish development as already have awesome trunk we've been dreaming of and just need lot of love and finessing(and wrestling and soul searching)to make beautiful tree. However once in first captive container whether box or pot should be left alone other than survival/adaptation care for 2 years or more. Good and healthy growth tells if well adapted. Always remember these Grandfather and Grandmother trees that have lived LONG time and move at much slower pace than we might want them to so patience grasshopper. These deserve to have patience and love that we would give to old and revered ancestor or we likely kill them. I believe normal procedure for pines is not to wire and repot same year. Might get away with on young Black pines. One thing normally absent from these is great or even marginally good nebari unless have been growing with exposed roots. On these trees this lack seems "generally" accepted thing in Bonsai community as trees are otherwise so beautiful.
Personal example/experience: Last year my 300-350 year old Ponderosa from Randy had been collected just 4 months earlier but Randy felt was doing well enough he could sell it. Comes to ecstatic new home and one who is as nervous as new father. Tree placed in full sun location as past experience had taught even partial shade bad for Ponderosa at my location. Care consisted of generally daily watering(tree in pumice)except cool or rainy(Duh!)days, fertilising generally 2 times a week, foliar fertilising(squirt bottle)2 times a week but only when sun low in sky very early or late in day to avoid chance of burning. Did use some systemic bugicide and sprayed with bugicidal soap but only on cool overcast day so would not get cooked into foliage but instead would be absorbed. And a lot of hovering. Came to me when new needles just getting into porcupine stage and watched daily to see if growing. By end of season needles as long as old ones and was very happy that instinct for care correct. Next hurdle to see how comes out of first winter here. Can hardly wait for Spring! Also glad to elaborate if desired.
They generally come to us near ready for finish development as already have awesome trunk we've been dreaming of and just need lot of love and finessing(and wrestling and soul searching)to make beautiful tree. However once in first captive container whether box or pot should be left alone other than survival/adaptation care for 2 years or more. Good and healthy growth tells if well adapted. Always remember these Grandfather and Grandmother trees that have lived LONG time and move at much slower pace than we might want them to so patience grasshopper. These deserve to have patience and love that we would give to old and revered ancestor or we likely kill them. I believe normal procedure for pines is not to wire and repot same year. Might get away with on young Black pines. One thing normally absent from these is great or even marginally good nebari unless have been growing with exposed roots. On these trees this lack seems "generally" accepted thing in Bonsai community as trees are otherwise so beautiful.
Personal example/experience: Last year my 300-350 year old Ponderosa from Randy had been collected just 4 months earlier but Randy felt was doing well enough he could sell it. Comes to ecstatic new home and one who is as nervous as new father. Tree placed in full sun location as past experience had taught even partial shade bad for Ponderosa at my location. Care consisted of generally daily watering(tree in pumice)except cool or rainy(Duh!)days, fertilising generally 2 times a week, foliar fertilising(squirt bottle)2 times a week but only when sun low in sky very early or late in day to avoid chance of burning. Did use some systemic bugicide and sprayed with bugicidal soap but only on cool overcast day so would not get cooked into foliage but instead would be absorbed. And a lot of hovering. Came to me when new needles just getting into porcupine stage and watched daily to see if growing. By end of season needles as long as old ones and was very happy that instinct for care correct. Next hurdle to see how comes out of first winter here. Can hardly wait for Spring! Also glad to elaborate if desired.