Glaucus
Omono
Some rare snow:
Which has by now already all sublimated away.
Which has by now already all sublimated away.
Glaucus Satsuki Azalea farm
- Thread starter Glaucus
- Start date
Glaucus
Omono
I made a selection of good seedlings with very red autumn colour.
Also seems these won't drop any more leaves. So they turn red AND stay relatively evergreen.
Interestingly, some of these seedlings are from a cross where both parents completely lack autumn leaf colouring.
In the first image on the left, you can see the large leaves of a kurume-influenced hybrid. And second picture on the left the narrow small leaves more typical of a relatively pure R.indicum satsuki.
Plan is to move these indoors, get them to flower asap, and see if I should crossbreed any of these.
Also seems these won't drop any more leaves. So they turn red AND stay relatively evergreen.
Interestingly, some of these seedlings are from a cross where both parents completely lack autumn leaf colouring.
In the first image on the left, you can see the large leaves of a kurume-influenced hybrid. And second picture on the left the narrow small leaves more typical of a relatively pure R.indicum satsuki.
Plan is to move these indoors, get them to flower asap, and see if I should crossbreed any of these.
Deep Sea Diver
Imperial Masterpiece
These are really nice Mark!
cheers
DSD sends
cheers
DSD sends
Glaucus
Omono
Some seedlings from this year that are already huge:
This tray needed thinning out, so I pulled out all of the smaller seedlings.
This was a cross between two seedlings that both were hybrids of satsuki and European kurume-types. I wanted to try and see if I could get more recessive traits to come out in this F2 generation.
Seems that there isn't too much variation. In that sense this experiment was a bit of a failure, as there was also no real selection pressure on the two parents of these seedlings.
But they do seem strong growers. So so far there doesn't seem much difference between a [satsuki x kurume] cross or a ([satsuki x kurume] x [kurume x satsuki]) cross.
I can add one more row to my growing field with these. But beyond that, I do not think there is any more point for me to raise even more satsuki x kurume hybrids. I just have to find the best forms of the seedlings I already have, and see how I move forward from there.
This tray needed thinning out, so I pulled out all of the smaller seedlings.
This was a cross between two seedlings that both were hybrids of satsuki and European kurume-types. I wanted to try and see if I could get more recessive traits to come out in this F2 generation.
Seems that there isn't too much variation. In that sense this experiment was a bit of a failure, as there was also no real selection pressure on the two parents of these seedlings.
But they do seem strong growers. So so far there doesn't seem much difference between a [satsuki x kurume] cross or a ([satsuki x kurume] x [kurume x satsuki]) cross.
I can add one more row to my growing field with these. But beyond that, I do not think there is any more point for me to raise even more satsuki x kurume hybrids. I just have to find the best forms of the seedlings I already have, and see how I move forward from there.
Glaucus
Omono
Indoor azalea's slowly waking up. These were the ones selected for their red leaf autumn colour. New leaves are there and old leaves are turning back green.
No signs of any individual that flower before growing. So flowers are still a month or so away. Maybe longer.
No signs of any individual that flower before growing. So flowers are still a month or so away. Maybe longer.
Glaucus
Omono
So I did a tiny experiment with different growth media. I put different media in hydroponics baskets and put them in a tray with RO water with the exact right fertilizer solution for rhododendron.
Then I put on the cover.
The results were quite surprising.
September 21st:
Then putting in the seedlings that germinated on sphagnum.
Now today, they look like this. I need to reapply hydroponics medium, but they were still all moist.
Those in peat and other potting soils look amazing. But those in sand, in lava, in vermiculite, in perlite, in kanuma, in rock wool, all no growth. All have reddish leaves.
Vermiculite
Kanuma (and rock wool bottom right)
It seems that the substrate ones needed way more fertilizer than 0.6EC.
Even the ones in pine bark and sphagnum did way way better.
In fact, it seems the one with my standard medium, which works great (peat, perlite, some pine bark) did worse than pure peat and pure potting soil.
Of course this is for tiny seedlings with added hydroponics fertilizer medium.
Another experiment is my deciduous azalea crossed with satsuki. This is something people have attempted for a long time, with basically quite poor results. One reasons why this is tried is to get yellow and orange as a colour for evergreen azalea flowers.
I used the deciduous azalea 'Washington State Centennial'. which has some bright yellow and is tetraploid:
For two flowers on this plant, I cut away the petals before opening, then applied a thick layer of satsuki 'Koyo' (also a tetraploid) pollen each day.
The result were two sizable seed pods.
For comparison, I saw a seed pod develop on the other flowers, presumably self-pollinated. So I kept that one as reference.
The open pollinated deciduous azalea seeds were sown 2 weeks earlier than the decidious x satsuki cross.
The pure deciduous seedlings now look like this:
For reference, this tray next to one with evergreen azaleas:
It seems deciduous azalea seeds are very easy to grow. But you can see their more hairy leaves and they have this fleshy feel to the.
The seedlings are also all very healthy, tray is filled out, no weak growers, no issues.
Germination back in November was very even:
And then for the deciduous x satsuki hybrid seedlings, germination was much lower. And most seedlings are sickly:
Back in November, they looked like this
Many have albino traits, or have chimeric/mosaic traits.
This is in agreement with the literature. And this is why tetraploids are used, to give the seedlings a double set of genetic material from both the deciduous lineage as well as the evergreen lineage, to overcome incompatibilities.
The stark difference between these two rays must mean that the second tray is indeed the result of satsuki pollen. Besides being sickly, these seedlings look like deciduous seedlings.
But some seem to be doing okish now, meaning that they may survive and manage. Only time will tell. So far it seems that adding satsuki evergreen azalea pollen will result in sickly plants that otherwise have mostly deciduous traits.
They might also be genetic dead ends in being infertile themselves.
Then I put on the cover.
The results were quite surprising.
September 21st:
Then putting in the seedlings that germinated on sphagnum.
Now today, they look like this. I need to reapply hydroponics medium, but they were still all moist.
Those in peat and other potting soils look amazing. But those in sand, in lava, in vermiculite, in perlite, in kanuma, in rock wool, all no growth. All have reddish leaves.
Vermiculite
Kanuma (and rock wool bottom right)
It seems that the substrate ones needed way more fertilizer than 0.6EC.
Even the ones in pine bark and sphagnum did way way better.
In fact, it seems the one with my standard medium, which works great (peat, perlite, some pine bark) did worse than pure peat and pure potting soil.
Of course this is for tiny seedlings with added hydroponics fertilizer medium.
Another experiment is my deciduous azalea crossed with satsuki. This is something people have attempted for a long time, with basically quite poor results. One reasons why this is tried is to get yellow and orange as a colour for evergreen azalea flowers.
I used the deciduous azalea 'Washington State Centennial'. which has some bright yellow and is tetraploid:
For two flowers on this plant, I cut away the petals before opening, then applied a thick layer of satsuki 'Koyo' (also a tetraploid) pollen each day.
The result were two sizable seed pods.
For comparison, I saw a seed pod develop on the other flowers, presumably self-pollinated. So I kept that one as reference.
The open pollinated deciduous azalea seeds were sown 2 weeks earlier than the decidious x satsuki cross.
The pure deciduous seedlings now look like this:
For reference, this tray next to one with evergreen azaleas:
It seems deciduous azalea seeds are very easy to grow. But you can see their more hairy leaves and they have this fleshy feel to the.
The seedlings are also all very healthy, tray is filled out, no weak growers, no issues.
Germination back in November was very even:
And then for the deciduous x satsuki hybrid seedlings, germination was much lower. And most seedlings are sickly:
Back in November, they looked like this
Many have albino traits, or have chimeric/mosaic traits.
This is in agreement with the literature. And this is why tetraploids are used, to give the seedlings a double set of genetic material from both the deciduous lineage as well as the evergreen lineage, to overcome incompatibilities.
The stark difference between these two rays must mean that the second tray is indeed the result of satsuki pollen. Besides being sickly, these seedlings look like deciduous seedlings.
But some seem to be doing okish now, meaning that they may survive and manage. Only time will tell. So far it seems that adding satsuki evergreen azalea pollen will result in sickly plants that otherwise have mostly deciduous traits.
They might also be genetic dead ends in being infertile themselves.
Glaucus
Omono
Some plants sown in 2022 and 2023 that I moved indoors are starting to flower.
This is a Hanatsuzuri x Mary Lou Dority seedling:
The goal of this cross was to get a darker blotch on a white variegated flower. Ideally with both shades of yellowish-green and whatever actual colour the flower has.
For this seedling, that seems to work so far. So it will be interesting to see the siblings and find the best form.
Not sure if it darker than Hanatsuzuri. But it shows that it is rather easy to get something similar to Hanatsuzuri.
Not all Hanatsuzuri seedlings have this strong of a blotch. But out of 2 seedlings from this cross with Mary Lou Dority, which has Girard's Funchsia as a parent (a zone 5 evergreen azalea), I already have this white variegated seedling with a strong large blotch. Even if all other Hanatsuzuri seedling that I expect to flower will be bad, I think I can try to move forward crossing this seedling with this one
www.bonsainut.com
In other news, Tochinoha Shobo in Japan went bankrupt. This is a publishing company behind the monthly satsuki magazines, as well as the satsuki dictionary.
This is a big deal for satsuki in Japan, because the magazine gives people a platform to get their club to win awards in satsuki shows.
Of course, no new satsuki dictionary will also hurt the creation of new satsuki varieties as getting a spot in the new dictionary is a good promotion tool and drives interest.
Source for this is Mack (Masayasu Nishiyama).
Unless someone picks up the ball, this means the 2020 dictionary is the last one. These might get really rare eventually.
This is a Hanatsuzuri x Mary Lou Dority seedling:
The goal of this cross was to get a darker blotch on a white variegated flower. Ideally with both shades of yellowish-green and whatever actual colour the flower has.
For this seedling, that seems to work so far. So it will be interesting to see the siblings and find the best form.
Not sure if it darker than Hanatsuzuri. But it shows that it is rather easy to get something similar to Hanatsuzuri.
Not all Hanatsuzuri seedlings have this strong of a blotch. But out of 2 seedlings from this cross with Mary Lou Dority, which has Girard's Funchsia as a parent (a zone 5 evergreen azalea), I already have this white variegated seedling with a strong large blotch. Even if all other Hanatsuzuri seedling that I expect to flower will be bad, I think I can try to move forward crossing this seedling with this one
Glaucus Satsuki Azalea farm
Thanks. I might have some more 'Hilda Niblett' seedlings outside. But I have at least one new one crossed with 'Hanatsuzuri'. It is a superior landscape outdoor garden shrub to most Japanese satsuki I have, in my climate. So definitely worth growing if you are into large azalea flowers with...
In other news, Tochinoha Shobo in Japan went bankrupt. This is a publishing company behind the monthly satsuki magazines, as well as the satsuki dictionary.
This is a big deal for satsuki in Japan, because the magazine gives people a platform to get their club to win awards in satsuki shows.
Of course, no new satsuki dictionary will also hurt the creation of new satsuki varieties as getting a spot in the new dictionary is a good promotion tool and drives interest.
Source for this is Mack (Masayasu Nishiyama).
Unless someone picks up the ball, this means the 2020 dictionary is the last one. These might get really rare eventually.
Last edited:
Deep Sea Diver
Imperial Masterpiece
Now that’s some kind of awesome blotch! Almost like those in some lily flowers we have out here. Really looking forward to seeing your future results.
Very sad to hear about Tochinoha Shobo going bankrupt. The Satsuki dictionary is almost like a bible to satsuki lovers around the world. The monthly magazines helped keep Satsuki in vogue. Hopefully someone will step up and find a way to take over.
cheers
DSD sends
Very sad to hear about Tochinoha Shobo going bankrupt. The Satsuki dictionary is almost like a bible to satsuki lovers around the world. The monthly magazines helped keep Satsuki in vogue. Hopefully someone will step up and find a way to take over.
cheers
DSD sends
Themilkyway
Sapling
How would one go about buying one of these dictionaries now?Some plants sown in 2022 and 2023 that I moved indoors are starting to flower.
This is a Hanatsuzuri x Mary Lou Dority seedling:
View attachment 527910View attachment 527911
The goal of this cross was to get a darker blotch on a white variegated flower. Ideally with both shades of yellowish-green and whatever actual colour the flower has.
For this seedling, that seems to work so far. So it will be interesting to see the siblings and find the best form.
Not sure if it darker than Hanatsuzuri. But it shows that it is rather easy to get something similar to Hanatsuzuri.
Not all Hanatsuzuri seedlings have this strong of a blotch. But out of 2 seedlings from this cross with Mary Lou Dority, which has Girard's Funchsia as a parent (a zone 5 evergreen azalea), I already have this white variegated seedling with a strong large blotch. Even if all other Hanatsuzuri seedling that I expect to flower will be bad, I think I can try to move forward crossing this seedling with this one
Glaucus Satsuki Azalea farm
Thanks. I might have some more 'Hilda Niblett' seedlings outside. But I have at least one new one crossed with 'Hanatsuzuri'. It is a superior landscape outdoor garden shrub to most Japanese satsuki I have, in my climate. So definitely worth growing if you are into large azalea flowers with...
In other news, Tochinoha Shobo in Japan went bankrupt. This is a publishing company behind the monthly satsuki magazines, as well as the satsuki dictionary.
This is a big deal for satsuki in Japan, because the magazine gives people a platform to get their club to win awards in satsuki shows.
Of course, no new satsuki dictionary will also hurt the creation of new satsuki varieties as getting a spot in the new dictionary is a good promotion tool and drives interest.
Source for this is Mack (Masayasu Nishiyama).
Unless someone picks up the ball, this means the 2020 dictionary is the last one. These might get really rare eventually.
Deep Sea Diver
Imperial Masterpiece
Tums
Shohin
Have you ever heard of WH Hardijzer? I think he was also from the Netherlands. He created some azaleadendron crosses using evergreen azaleas and the small-leafed/lepidote rhododendrons, such as "Hardijzer Beauty". I think most other successful azaleadendrons have been crosses between the big-leaf/elepidote rhododendrons and deciduous azaleas, so it's very interesting that you were able to get some viable seedlings from this combination.
Edit: there are some yellow lepidote rhodo species such as keiskei - have you ever tried using them in a breeding program? Not a very intense yellow compared to a deciduous azalea though.
Glaucus
Omono
Yup indeed. I have never seen this azaleadendron in person, though. And yes people have also explored R.keiskei as well as R.flavidum as a source of yellow pigments.
It might actually be easier to create a hybrid between an evergreen azalea like a satsuki and lepidote azaleas. Deciduous azaleas and evergreen azaleas are actually quite distant in evolutionary terms. Which is why most deciduous azaleas are native to North America and many evergreen azaleas are native to Japan, China, Korea, Taiwan. Their last common ancestor might be 40 million years ago. I made a presentation on that once, but forgot the date. We now kinda know because of some recent papers sequencing the DNA and building a phylogenetic tree.
There are also some other species in the tsutsuji section that are not evergreen and that are much more related to say satsuki or kurume than lepidotes or deciduous azaleas. These might be bridge species to span a fertility gap.
These things are all interesting to try. But with the Hardijzer hybrids, we don't have like a new cultivar group of a special type of rhododendron from that original hybrid. There's just this one cross Hardijzer made, and nothing happened after that.
Same for all the North Americans working on a yellow evergreen azalea.
There's also 'Palestrina' which is said to be a hybrid between a Knapp Hill Deciduous azalea and an evergreen. But I have my doubts. Seems much more likely that it is 100% evergreen.
I got mine off Japanese Amazon. I see there was a Kindle version as well, but it is no longer availalbe.
https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/株-栃の葉書房編集部/dp/4886163947/
Not sure if right now Amazon.co.jp is the best. Seems there are several sellers inside the amazon framework, but some are second hand.
There's also bonsai specialty stores that carry it, both EU and NA.
Last edited:
Glaucus
Omono
A couple of you have asked about satsuki with improved foliage. Of course that can mean different things to different people. But for bonsai, the foliage is actually quite important. There were a few satsuki at the Kokufu just now. And that means they rely on the state of their winter foliage. Plus their nebari and trucks of course.
When I got a few new satsuki varieties from Japan a couple of years ago, I was actually surprised that in terms of foliage and plant habit, most of them were indistinguishable. The focus for new varieties in Japan seems to be 90% about flowers.
Ordinarily, the plant habit is losing all spring leaves in autumn, a more upright open growth habit, no autumn foliage colour. This is because many new varieties have large white flowers. They don't have foliage like Kinsai or Chinzan.
Additionally, by not using other species besides satsuki, the Japanese may be missing out on some things.
One seedling I raised in 2012 has always had a really good plant habit. I call this We1 and it is a cross between 'Wintergreen' and 'Hekisui'. 'Wintergreen' is a R.nakaharae hybrid of some sort. I posted about it here:
www.bonsainut.com
I have since decided to raise seedlings using We1 and satsuki. One seedling stood out to me and I brought it indoors this winter to see it flower early.
(Leftmost picture shows the seedling in question in a tray surrounded by the other seedling)
This seedling is a cross between Hanatsuzuri and We1.
As you can see, it is very dark. The colour is almost purple, kinda black. Additionally, it has not lost a single leaf in autumn. 100% retention of all leaves. Talk about wintergreen.
It has been a common trait of R.nakaharae hybrids to wake up much later in spring, and flower after satsuki. But this seedling, it has not woken up yet at all.
I suspect (and hope haha) it will break dormancy soon. The other R.nakaharae seedlings have just started while some satsuki and kurume x satsuki have a few cm of new growth already. So it is time for this one.
The R.nakaharae genes have been diluted to 12.5% by now. But it still is very distinct from satsuki.
You can see the contract between this Wintergreen x Hanatsuzuri seedling, an average satsuki (left) and another satsuki with 12.5% R.nakaharae genes (bottom right):
So I went from the original 'Wintergreen', which I actually don't like as much, to We1, and now I have this seedling. Now it needs to thrive, flower, survive some cold winters fully outdoors.
But this seems to be a steady increase in quality. I could see if I can reduce the leaf size while also making it have a brick red autumn colour. I suspect this one is pink flowering and not a dark red.
And thus the foliage would be even darker if it were a deep red.
Imagine that 100 year old satsuki at Kokufu, but then with foliage like this one.
When I got a few new satsuki varieties from Japan a couple of years ago, I was actually surprised that in terms of foliage and plant habit, most of them were indistinguishable. The focus for new varieties in Japan seems to be 90% about flowers.
Ordinarily, the plant habit is losing all spring leaves in autumn, a more upright open growth habit, no autumn foliage colour. This is because many new varieties have large white flowers. They don't have foliage like Kinsai or Chinzan.
Additionally, by not using other species besides satsuki, the Japanese may be missing out on some things.
One seedling I raised in 2012 has always had a really good plant habit. I call this We1 and it is a cross between 'Wintergreen' and 'Hekisui'. 'Wintergreen' is a R.nakaharae hybrid of some sort. I posted about it here:
Glaucus Satsuki Azalea farm
Thanks. I might have some more 'Hilda Niblett' seedlings outside. But I have at least one new one crossed with 'Hanatsuzuri'. It is a superior landscape outdoor garden shrub to most Japanese satsuki I have, in my climate. So definitely worth growing if you are into large azalea flowers with...
I have since decided to raise seedlings using We1 and satsuki. One seedling stood out to me and I brought it indoors this winter to see it flower early.
(Leftmost picture shows the seedling in question in a tray surrounded by the other seedling)
This seedling is a cross between Hanatsuzuri and We1.
As you can see, it is very dark. The colour is almost purple, kinda black. Additionally, it has not lost a single leaf in autumn. 100% retention of all leaves. Talk about wintergreen.
It has been a common trait of R.nakaharae hybrids to wake up much later in spring, and flower after satsuki. But this seedling, it has not woken up yet at all.
I suspect (and hope haha) it will break dormancy soon. The other R.nakaharae seedlings have just started while some satsuki and kurume x satsuki have a few cm of new growth already. So it is time for this one.
The R.nakaharae genes have been diluted to 12.5% by now. But it still is very distinct from satsuki.
You can see the contract between this Wintergreen x Hanatsuzuri seedling, an average satsuki (left) and another satsuki with 12.5% R.nakaharae genes (bottom right):
So I went from the original 'Wintergreen', which I actually don't like as much, to We1, and now I have this seedling. Now it needs to thrive, flower, survive some cold winters fully outdoors.
But this seems to be a steady increase in quality. I could see if I can reduce the leaf size while also making it have a brick red autumn colour. I suspect this one is pink flowering and not a dark red.
And thus the foliage would be even darker if it were a deep red.
Imagine that 100 year old satsuki at Kokufu, but then with foliage like this one.
Glaucus
Omono
Two sibling seedlings, but huge difference in leaf size:
Fast growth seems to rule out small leaves, which makes logical sense. The large leaves has kurume blood, the small leaves one has R.nakaharae blood.
Some other seedlings:
Purple, looks like it wants to do white centers but it didn't quite appear yet.
Red
All four are Hanatsuzuri seedlings, with different parents.
One flower is near-symmetrical. The other a good shade or red. But no true dark red symmetrical flower yet.
Half of the Hanatsuzuri seedlings seem to have good blotches. The others seem to take after the other parent with understated blotches.
These are all pretty average. They are too nice to be instantly composted. But nice enough to keep for now. Nothing special about them.
There were outliers for autumn colour though. So I will see if I can cross two of them at least.
Potted plants outdoors have also woken up btw, Which is very early. So frost might damage those, but we'll see.
Fast growth seems to rule out small leaves, which makes logical sense. The large leaves has kurume blood, the small leaves one has R.nakaharae blood.
Some other seedlings:
Purple, looks like it wants to do white centers but it didn't quite appear yet.
Red
All four are Hanatsuzuri seedlings, with different parents.
One flower is near-symmetrical. The other a good shade or red. But no true dark red symmetrical flower yet.
Half of the Hanatsuzuri seedlings seem to have good blotches. The others seem to take after the other parent with understated blotches.
These are all pretty average. They are too nice to be instantly composted. But nice enough to keep for now. Nothing special about them.
There were outliers for autumn colour though. So I will see if I can cross two of them at least.
Potted plants outdoors have also woken up btw, Which is very early. So frost might damage those, but we'll see.
Last edited:
Glaucus
Omono
White & variegated seedling with R.nakaharae heritage:
Originally, I crossbred 'Alexander' with 'Hekisui'. Then I obtained a solid red seedling with funnel-shaped red flowers and small leaves. I called that one Ae14.
Then, I pollinated that plant with 'Hanatsuzuri'.
This seedling is flowering for the first time with already 25 (!) flowers. The flowers are still a bit too funnel-shaped for my taste. Not sure if they will open much further than this.
The flowers on this one are a bit smaller than on two solid-red only siblings. But all have the fullel shape that came all the way from 'Alexander', the half satsuki half R.nakaharae grandparent.
The important aspect of this seedling is that it is a satsuki with variegated flowers, but it flowers before it grows. This could protect it from early spring frost which satsuki can be susceptible to, as they can produce a lot of new tender growth early in spring.
This one is flowering indoors right now. But outdoors, It would bloom after the kurume have already finished. So basically at the same time as satsuki flower. But by then, most satsuki will have pushed several cm of new growth. Which can also obscure the flowers.
Originally, I crossbred 'Alexander' with 'Hekisui'. Then I obtained a solid red seedling with funnel-shaped red flowers and small leaves. I called that one Ae14.
Then, I pollinated that plant with 'Hanatsuzuri'.
This seedling is flowering for the first time with already 25 (!) flowers. The flowers are still a bit too funnel-shaped for my taste. Not sure if they will open much further than this.
The flowers on this one are a bit smaller than on two solid-red only siblings. But all have the fullel shape that came all the way from 'Alexander', the half satsuki half R.nakaharae grandparent.
The important aspect of this seedling is that it is a satsuki with variegated flowers, but it flowers before it grows. This could protect it from early spring frost which satsuki can be susceptible to, as they can produce a lot of new tender growth early in spring.
This one is flowering indoors right now. But outdoors, It would bloom after the kurume have already finished. So basically at the same time as satsuki flower. But by then, most satsuki will have pushed several cm of new growth. Which can also obscure the flowers.
Deep Sea Diver
Imperial Masterpiece
Wow!
Really nice flowers. Love the fact you’ve created an azalea that pushes new growth after blooming with variegated flowers,
Cheers
DSD sends
Really nice flowers. Love the fact you’ve created an azalea that pushes new growth after blooming with variegated flowers,
Cheers
DSD sends
Glaucus
Omono
Using R.nakaharae was a trick recommended by Kenneth Cox. He noted that many of the hardy kurume were not hardy at his nursery way up north in Scotland. Even though he is near the coast and his winters don't get so cold. Spring there is very slow and summers are also short. So the very hardy kurume from Germany that can take -25C frost didn't do well for him. But he and his dad were able to improve them using R.nakaharae. Which grows at altitude in Taiwan. Which is like a subtropical country. It is a bit ironic you need a plant from a subtropical place to make sure German kurume from almost a continental climate can deal with spring frost on the Scottish coast.
A next step could be to mix seedlings like this one up with some good satsuki-kurume hybrids.
A next step could be to mix seedlings like this one up with some good satsuki-kurume hybrids.
Glaucus
Omono
Some blotch effect crossbreeding results:
(flowers slightly spoiled, but this one is now in shelter so maybe others will be without blemish)
Both are 'Hanatsuzuri' x 'Milesovka'. Most of their siblings are plain white. But quite a few, like 20 to 30%, seem to have blotches or variegation, or both.
(flowers slightly spoiled, but this one is now in shelter so maybe others will be without blemish)
Both are 'Hanatsuzuri' x 'Milesovka'. Most of their siblings are plain white. But quite a few, like 20 to 30%, seem to have blotches or variegation, or both.
Deep Sea Diver
Imperial Masterpiece
Well done! Your hard work continues to pay off.
Cheers
DSD sends
Cheers
DSD sends
Glaucus
Omono
Especially the blotch of the first one is pretty good. It is quite good to see that I studied all these azalea varieties, came up with this idea of blotch effect pigmentation and indeed now I have a seedling that has almost a golden coloured blotch. And this in one generation. So good to see realty can be made to match up to my theories.
I don't think there's any satsuki like this. Question now is if I want to make the flower larger, or make the plant habit more like a satsuki, or make a red version, or try to make the effect larger & stronger.
I don't think there's any satsuki like this. Question now is if I want to make the flower larger, or make the plant habit more like a satsuki, or make a red version, or try to make the effect larger & stronger.
