Ebihara maples

So how do we find out if they ship to the U.S.? I don’t really read Spanish.
 
Juan Andrade just posted on FaceBook a tree where he used Nr Ebihara’s “peg technique” to move branchs from one place on a tree to another.

I tried to find s way to post a link here, but couldn’t. Maybe someone else can

He performed the work two years ago. He has been away for two years, and has come back to find the tree has survived the grafts, and it’s looking great!

If you find the post, and can share the link to it, please share it here!
 
Juan Andrade just posted on FaceBook a tree where he used Nr Ebihara’s “peg technique” to move branchs from one place on a tree to another.

I tried to find s way to post a link here, but couldn’t. Maybe someone else can

He performed the work two years ago. He has been away for two years, and has come back to find the tree has survived the grafts, and it’s looking great!

If you find the post, and can share the link to it, please share it here!
I found this posted by someone else.
https://m.facebook.com/groups/1746445082317954?view=permalink&id=1810632849232510

Screenshot_20180807-164431_Facebook.jpg
 
Juan Andrade just posted on FaceBook a tree where he used Nr Ebihara’s “peg technique” to move branchs from one place on a tree to another.

I tried to find s way to post a link here, but couldn’t. Maybe someone else can

He performed the work two years ago. He has been away for two years, and has come back to find the tree has survived the grafts, and it’s looking great!

If you find the post, and can share the link to it, please share it here!
IMG-20180807-WA0025.jpgIMG-20180807-WA0024.jpgIMG-20180807-WA0023.jpg
 
Some years ago on YouTube there was a long video of Mr. Ebihara moving a branch this way. It was in black and white, don’t remember the date. I still remember how stunned I was to see it.
 
@markyscott What signs do you look for when removing the whip? Is it similar to thread graft where you see swelling on the branch where the external portion of the stub meets the trunk?
 
Hi Andy. This season I bagged my fertilizer in teabags rather than the little pvc cups. With the cups, fertilizer worked it’s way into the soil, so I was trying to limit that with the teabags. I use Microlife in the bags. It’s a good quality organic fertilizer made locally.

I also feed with liquid fertilizer. I alternate between fish emulsion, liquid Microlife and Medina Hosta Grow. Most seasons I feed weekly, but this season I switched to a siphon irrigation system.

Hi Markyscott,

Do you spray foliar with Media Hasta Grow once a week? Thanks
 
One of the keys to this technique is that you want a flat rootball, with no downward growing roots. You have to be ruthless in eliminating them and ensure that the root base is absolutely flat across the bottom. All of the roots should extend from the same horizontal plane across the nebari and the tree should sit flat on the table by itself.

View attachment 68539 View attachment 68540

Work those roots flat.

- Scott
I wanna try this method with some bald Cypress when mine get big enough
 
What type of soil do you put under the board? If the answer is bonsai soil then I feel that is a waste of good soil. Just curious...
 
There is no need for soil under the board unless you want to allow roots to grow under it.
I guess it all depends on how long you want to leave it between repotting, and how big of a pot or box you put it in. My trident did have soil under the board, and once the roots reached the edge of the board, they grew straight down, until they hit the bottom of the pot. Then, they spread out across the bottom of the pot.

I left the tree untouched for two years before repotting, and removing the board.

If I only wanted to leave it for a year, or had used a shallower pot, the roots may have run out of soil, or, perhaps the board would have covered the drain holes and impeded drainage. I’ve always done it with at least a layer of soil under the pot for drainage.
 
I guess it all depends on how long you want to leave it between repotting, and how big of a pot or box you put it in. My trident did have soil under the board, and once the roots reached the edge of the board, they grew straight down, until they hit the bottom of the pot. Then, they spread out across the bottom of the pot.

I left the tree untouched for two years before repotting, and removing the board.

If I only wanted to leave it for a year, or had used a shallower pot, the roots may have run out of soil, or, perhaps the board would have covered the drain holes and impeded drainage. I’ve always done it with at least a layer of soil under the pot for drainage.

Did it make a noticeable difference?
 
+1 for good soil under the board. I want the roots to grow well and have an opportunity to stretch their legs, so to speak. Soil under the board gives them more room to grow which builds the nebari and assists in good top growth and branch development at the same time.
 
If one wants to create optimum conditions for root growth than the additional layer of appropriate and proper sized material under the board will contribute to more uniform levels of heat, moisture and oxygen.
Of course it is correct to say you do not have to, but then perhaps it depends on how successful of an outcome is desired. Actually the attention to detail is often the difference between outcomes. We have all seen the result when a mat of roots form at the bottom of the container and sit in water.
 
Back
Top Bottom