Bonsai Worthy?

[LittleDingus]

Boo Hiss. The pot & saucer are fine. Not every tree has to be kept at the Emperor's standards. I see the OP has found another, finer pot which is fine, too. But imposing superficial standards on every new kid drives new people away from bonsai. Make it easy to start bonsai, not difficult. In time, the standards go up. Do you buy your 7 year old T-ball child a Louisville Slugger 40 oz bat?

If you actually read my post I did specifically mention my concerns: if the drip tray is glued on, there is a distinct possibility that it could be plugging the drain holes. I mentioned a way I've been able to "fix" such a situation in pots I've bought. I even mentioned that, once separated, use the drip tray if that's the asthetic the OP likes.

Not once did I say anything about higher standards. Surely even you must agree a pot that does not drain properly is bad news for any plant.

Don't spit venom just because you have a personal beef with me.

 

[Forsoothe!]

The post was condemning perfectly useful ware for houseplants. People come to bonsai with an initial plant and want to join up. I want to make it easy to do so. The pot had already been purchased and the OP was ready to use it and was told it ain't good enough. Hogwash. I use jardinieres for almost all of my bonsai that I keep as houseplants. They are decorative ceramic pots with no drainage holes. Most of my houseplant bonsai never go outdoors. They do just fine and have done so for 20 years, so I don't want to hear that super high drainage is an absolute necessity. Appropriate watering habits are all that is necessary.

 

[Cadillactaste]

If you actually read my post I did specifically mention my concerns: if the drip tray is glued on, there is a distinct possibility that it could be plugging the drain holes. I mentioned a way I've been able to "fix" such a situation in pots I've bought. I even mentioned that, once separated, use the drip tray if that's the asthetic the OP likes.

Not once did I say anything about higher standards. Surely even you must agree a pot that does not drain properly is bad news for any plant.

Don't spit venom just because you have a personal beef with me.

Ahhh that was his issue. For his rant made absolutely NO SENSE . Adult Charlie Brown voices run in my head when I read posts not relevant.

 

[Cadillactaste]

The post was condemning perfectly useful ware for houseplants. People come to bonsai with an initial plant and want to join up. I want to make it easy to do so. The pot had already been purchased and the OP was ready to use it and was told it ain't good enough. Hogwash. I use jardinieres for almost all of my bonsai that I keep as houseplants. They are decorative ceramic pots with no drainage holes. Most of my houseplant bonsai never go outdoors. They do just fine and have done so for 20 years, so I don't want to hear that super high drainage is an absolute necessity. Appropriate watering habits are all that is necessary.

Oh please...you are hijacking this thread. Over concern of drainage holes where rotting roots kill trees. Are a concern in this hobby. There was nothing wrong with the warning... I have never been told in the years I've done bonsai...to choose a pot without drain holes. How do we tie in our trees? Boo Hiss for your over reacting.

 

[Forsoothe!]

If you actually read my post I did specifically mention my concerns: if the drip tray is glued on, there is a distinct possibility that it could be plugging the drain holes. I mentioned a way I've been able to "fix" such a situation in pots I've bought. I even mentioned that, once separated, use the drip tray if that's the asthetic the OP likes.

Not once did I say anything about higher standards. Surely even you must agree a pot that does not drain properly is bad news for any plant.

Don't spit venom just because you have a personal beef with me.

I have several of those kinds of pots and I have never heard of blocked drainage holes. The only purpose the combination has is to have a pot you can water and not soil your table top. The entire purpose of the combination would be thwarted if any of the holes were blocked.

I don't tie my trees in either.

 

[Cadillactaste]

I have several of those kinds of pots and I have never heard of blocked drainage holes. The only purpose the combination has is to have a pot you can water and not soil your table top. The entire purpose of the combination would be thwarted if any of the holes were blocked.

Water can also fill the tray and the pot then SITS in a tray of water. What is your point the cons to using one for the majority of bonsai folk...aren't worth the risk of attached trays.

Edit: I've had my say...I don't like chasing tails and getting no where. To the poster...I think your tree is quirky. I like quirky. Sorry for the tail chasing that seemed to take place ...that I was involved in.

~Enjoy your journey.

 

[Forsoothe!]

Or, learn how to water? This is not rocket science.

 

[Potawatomi13]

But of course.

 

[leatherback]

Funky tree deserves funky pots.

Be wary of drowning your tree-roots. A well-draining substrate and a pot with a good drainage hole helps to care for your tree. Naturally, if kept indoors in winter make sure you have a tray below the pot so that draining water doesn't ruin whatever it is sitting on.

As for tying plants into pots.. If you have a bonsai that develops well, often the rootball is not sufficient to keep the tree stable in the pot after repotting, and/or when animals pass by and/or wind is blowing. Not tying trees into the pot is like not having drainage holes: Of course it can be done. It is however making life hard on yourself and you are walking a tightrope to provide good care. You will see this in the speed of development of the trees.

 

[Mellow Mullet]

Found another pot... Though I personally like the one on the right.

I will talk to @Mellow Mullet before I do anything with reporting.

I read all of the comments on the pot, I think it will be fine as long as it has drainage holes which it looks like it has, since I see tie wires installed. If you can get the tray off, go for it, if not leave it, it looks to have enough clearance to drain. You can always get a better pot later.

It looks like the pot is deep enough so that you won't have to do much root work. Slip the tree out of the plastic pot and carefully use a chopstick to get most of the potting soil (that is what it looks to be growing in) out. Be careful not to tear the roots, serissa have very fine hair-like roots, similar to azalea but a lot more delicate. Transfer the tree to the pot and tie it in with the wire. Add your bonsai soil of choice, I use lava, pumice, and pine bark in a 40/40/20 mixture. Akadama and Kanuma are a waste of money. After you get the soil worked in, water thoroughly and leave it alone until it starts growing.

Don't be surprised if it drops a few leaves (sometimes 40%), serissa often get offended at the drop of a hat. When it starts growing again, you are ready to style. It needs to be outside for the best chances of living and growth. I see this type of design for it, you might have a different vision. I apologize for the crudeness of the drawing, just a quick sketch on a post it note.

 

[Cadillactaste]

I think you have a good eye for pot pairing. With the three you showed. The one you prefer was my choice as well. I love the soft lines of the pot. John has a good eye. It did have tie down wire. So that's something I overlooked.

I've been in the hobby since 2013...and look to the right of the pot. A chopstick to monitor moisture. JBP doesn't like wet feet. I was told to let it go practically dry before watering. So there is my gage to monitor. Because I just can't tell by the bit of soil outside the roots what moisture level its at. It really is a good method for learning to water. I usually water sooner for most trees. This one I let get just a tad less wet before watering. Great monitoring tool.

 

[Munch9]

I read all of the comments on the pot, I think it will be fine as long as it has drainage holes which it looks like it has, since I see tie wires installed. If you can get the tray off, go for it, if not leave it, it looks to have enough clearance to drain. You can always get a better pot later.

It looks like the pot is deep enough so that you won't have to do much root work. Slip the tree out of the plastic pot and carefully use a chopstick to get most of the potting soil (that is what it looks to be growing in) out. Be careful not to tear the roots, serissa have very fine hair-like roots, similar to azalea but a lot more delicate. Transfer the tree to the pot and tie it in with the wire. Add your bonsai soil of choice, I use lava, pumice, and pine bark in a 40/40/20 mixture. Akadama and Kanuma are a waste of money. After you get the soil worked in, water thoroughly and leave it alone until it starts growing.

Don't be surprised if it drops a few leaves (sometimes 40%), serissa often get offended at the drop of a hat. When it starts growing again, you are ready to style. It needs to be outside for the best chances of living and growth. I see this type of design for it, you might have a different vision. I apologize for the crudeness of the drawing, just a quick sketch on a post it note.

View attachment 362727

40% lava
40% pumice
20% pine bark
?

 

[Cadillactaste]

40% lava
40% pumice
20% pine bark
?

John/Mellow Mullet is the Serrisa Whisperer...if that is his mix I don't question it.

 

[Mellow Mullet]

40% lava
40% pumice
20% pine bark
?

Oh, I forgot, and a pinch of magic pixie dust. Not really a necessity and really hard to get, but I like using it.

John