Wire cutters

Things have changed since the 70s.

I, too, took workshops from Naka. No disrespect to him, but many of the old techniques have been replaced with new ones.

You may think my reasons are "thin", but I have found wire in places its not supposed to be in several clients trees.

Anyway, it appears you have no desire to change the way you've been doing it, so I'll drop the subject.
 
Yeah, the "old dog" label probably applies at some level.... Techniques come and go, the art remains. I enjoy using the bonsai wire cutter for the purpose for which it was designed because it works for me. As our friend Naka used to say, "Tonin Toiro"--- 10 different guys, 10 different guts.
 
This thread was brought up to my "alerts" because someone liked one of my posts. So, I want back and read the thread.

It appears that the main concern everyone has about unwinding wire is they are afraid they're going to break s branch.

Why would you be more likely to break a branch unwinding than you would wiring it? The hand skills are very similiar!

I did make one mistake in the thread. I said the first thing you learn is to unwire. Not true. The first thing you learn is how to handle a tree without harming it.

Before Boon showed me how to do it correctly, I had for 30 years "been doing it wrong". Took some work to break the old habits, but now the right way comes natural.

Once you master how to handle a tree correctly, you're far less likely to harm the tree wiring or unwiring.

Boon was taught to unwire by Kamiya. Who was taught by Suzuki. Who's father "discovered" JBP decandling.

One more thing while I rant...

What is this hate towards those who study with s Master all about? Look at the biography of any classical musician. They all list what schools they attended and what teachers they studied under.
 
I'm a newbie and have not unwired any of my plants yet, buuut I'm reading through these posts and am aware we are speaking of soft wire (copper and aluminum) which most any nippers will cut through without damage to the cutting edges. I don't have money for expensive tools but have enough tools to know that "good" tool design oftentimes comes into play in expensive tools (like a Skandinavian axe). Noticed (while reading these posts) a pair of toenail clippers on my desk and wondered at the usability of them for the purpose. (Yes, I many times think outside the box, or maybe due to economics I ponder how I might accomplish the same on my budget). My basic thought is it is not all that spendy to have numerous, cheaper, variou sized tools, especially which will cut 14 guage wire, including a pair of bolt cutters for the larger. And I will keep in mind unwrapping vs cutting in most instances. I'll cut off the spool and unwrap off the tree.
 
Jomawa,

I suspect toe nail clippers will dull pretty quickly cutting wire

Of all the bonsai specific tools there are, wire cutters and Jin pliers are the least expensive. And, you can get away with using the cheaper brands, too. Save your money for the expensive concave cutters and knob cutters. And I would suggest that the more expensive brands of tools will last longer on those, too.
 
What is this hate towards those who study with s Master all about? Look at the biography of any classical musician. They all list what schools they attended and what teachers they studied under.
If I may offer my perspective without offending, I don't see hate towards those who study with a master at all. Here is where I think things metaphorically go off the rails:

1. I have chosen to study with a master (Excellent! Most serious enthusiasts would want to travel down this road)
2. "My master says..." replaces "my experience is..." (Bouncing off the guardrail)
3. My master has taught me xxx (great, we're back on the road, thanks for sharing the tip)
4. My master has taught me xxx is the only way to do it (skidding! Ok if it's your master; but other right ways do exist)
5. My master has taught me xxx is the only way, now I'm telling you it's the only way you should do it (crash and burn....)

Some masters are more "militant" than others, which leads to comments like #4 above.
And #2+#4 = #5 (common core math anyone?)

I try very hard to stick with #3, along with sharing my own personal experiences.

My thoughts anyway. It and $4.00 may get you a Starbucks.
 
Adair AND BvF been drinking tonight!

Sorce
 
If I may offer my perspective without offending, I don't see hate towards those who study with a master at all. Here is where I think things metaphorically go off the rails:

1. I have chosen to study with a master (Excellent! Most serious enthusiasts would want to travel down this road)
2. "My master says..." replaces "my experience is..." (Bouncing off the guardrail)
3. My master has taught me xxx (great, we're back on the road, thanks for sharing the tip)
4. My master has taught me xxx is the only way to do it (skidding! Ok if it's your master; but other right ways do exist)
5. My master has taught me xxx is the only way, now I'm telling you it's the only way you should do it (crash and burn....)

Some masters are more "militant" than others, which leads to comments like #4 above.
And #2+#4 = #5 (common core math anyone?)

I try very hard to stick with #3, along with sharing my own personal experiences.

My thoughts anyway. It and $4.00 may get you a Starbucks.

I hope your master is a nice lady.. teaching you all about xxx
 
Nah... Just discussing bonsai!

Actually, just got thru mossing two trees for the silhouette show in Kannapolis this weekend.

My zelkova still has a dozen or so leaves on it. If they're still there for the show, that would be cool. Maybe keep only 5. Or three.

To get back on topic...

I have several wire cutters. Two are the traditional bonsai wire cutters. One happens to be stainless steel. I use that one the most. Not because it's better, but it's one of the few stainless steel tools I have. So it makes it easy for my eyes to be able to find it. All my other tools are black.

I also have a small pair of Masakuni bypass wire cutters. They have sturdy blades. So, once you've applied the wire to the branch, you can use the tool to help bend the branch/wire.
 
Why would you be more likely to break a branch unwinding than you would wiring it? The hand skills are very similiar!
I agree, and have been unwinding more lately than I used to. But, the one reason why it could be more difficult would be because copper work hardens as you apply and then bend...which should make unwinding a little tougher, right? I don't think it really matters for the small gauges, only the medium/larger sizes...which I think you've said you cut off?

Chris
 
I agree, and have been unwinding more lately than I used to. But, the one reason why it could be more difficult would be because copper work hardens as you apply and then bend...which should make unwinding a little tougher, right? I don't think it really matters for the small gauges, only the medium/larger sizes...which I think you've said you cut off?

Chris
Yes, unwind the small gauges. 12, 14, 16, 18 and smaller if you use it. (I don't)

Gauge 10 may still be plyable enough to unwind. If not, cut it in chunks. Anything larger, cut.

I've found that while copper does work garden, the gauges listed above aren't hard to unwind. Especially using the Jin pliers.
 
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