Watering wand

[coachspinks]

I ordered this one and used it earlier today. It says it has 2000 holes Dreyo 2000 . I have pretty high water pressure and the result is a very fine spray that has a little too much force to get close to a pot but it may work like the Dram 1000 for someone with lower water pressure.

 

[rustygarden]

I have been using the dramm green head for 6 or more years and my favorite is this setup with the dramm brass shutoff . My water pressure is aprox 80 psi . No muss or fuss .

 

[Maiden69]

Bottom line, The Dramms tend to dribble at lower pressure and have too much pressure when opened up.

This is my only gripe with them. I have the Red Head and the 480 AL, they have the same size holes, so the 480 AL actually works slightly better at lower pressures, but still not as good as a Japanese style wand. They are better for bigger trees that you need more water to saturate the soil.

I have the Joshua Roth that I bought from Jeremiah before the shop closed down (I can't find it online anymore), and it is similar to the kaneshin and masakuni cheaper versions. One note though, don't leave it in the sun as the adhesive that glues the wand to the hose threaded socket will separate. I'm definitely buying the one @rockm posted as soon as I move to the house. Definitely worth the price.

 

[MGTT]

I got both the Dramm multi nozzle head, and the Masakuni wand this week.

For the price I spent on the 1000 head, multi head, and wand extension, I wish I would have just started with the Masakuni - many thanks to @rockm , the Masakuni is easily the best for my needs.

For me, like I mentioned above, both the dramm 1000 & 400 have too much pressure at full open, and too much dribble at lower pressure/valve opening.

The multi head is pretty good, and works a little better on the rain setting than the single heads. But, still too strong for me-wanting something I can put just a couple inches above the soil.
(FWIW, the mist setting on the multi head is great. A super fine/soft mist. Really nice. The other options: stream, flat, etc, work great as well - it’s functional enough that I’m keeping it for other garden tasks - very useful - and better than any other multi nozzle I’ve gotten from a big box store).

The Masakuni ‘scared’ me at first. I turned it on at full volume/pressure - wow, lots of water. But once I modulated the valve flow, I got a great ‘light’ flow with no dribbling. Very versatile, it’s really nice!

A big thanks again to @rockm and @bwaynef - you have my gratitude, while a simple item, it’s truly going to bring enjoyment every time I use it after years messing around with water cans. Ahhhh!


Below are pics of the various heads/wands. (Site limited to 16? (Seems like less) pics per post, so some removed)
1000 head, up, down:


400 up, down, partial volume (the 1000 was essentially the same):



Multi head ‘rain’ up, down, partial volume/flow:

Multi head - mist:


Masakuni up full, down full, down partial volume:

 

[MGTT]

I’m hoping @bwaynef can give more insight - I assembled the Masakuni to a Dramm handle/valve. The threads worked fine, but the alignment between the handle grip and water head was off.
There was a plastic on/off valve provided, so I tried to see if that would align the head to the handle, but no go.
I got another shutoff valve online- normal 3/4 garden hose thread (GHT), and a ‘swivel’ end that would allow me to align the handle to the head.
But, that valve would not thread into the wand!
I had a 3/4 GHT TO 3/4 NPT adapter, but that would also not thread into the Masakuni.
So, I’m trying to figure out what the thread is on the Masakuni, since it’s no GHT or NPT.

While it looks like the threads on the plastic valves (yes, I tried a few that I had - all with GHT) work fine on the Masakuni, the brass valve, with the ‘same’ threads did not.

I checked the brass valve to the dramm handle - the dramm threads are not full threads- while the brass valve had full threads around the circumference, on the dramm handle I have they are ‘ground off’ at two spots on the circumference. See pics.

I’d like to align the handle to the head for ease of use, along with the shutoff valve that allows me to have a constant low flow, without needing to modulate the handle - with the shutoff valve partly open, I can just squeeze the dramm handle on/off, which works great - see pic where I placed two shutoffs with the dramm handle - which works great but is ‘inefficient’

I looked at the link to the Lowe’s page, but I don’t know which thread to get - I only see GHT and NPT, does anyone know the thread designation on Japanese garden hoses? It’s closer to ght than npt. I’ll need to spend more time looking at why ght plastic works, but ght brass doesn’t….

Yes, I can work with the current setup, I just want to see if I can remove the plastic shutoff but still have a shutoff that aligns the handle to the head.

And, all of this is splitting hairs. The Masakuni is awesome, and a total pleasure to use.
Trying to understand why it works better than Dramm, it looks like it’s a combination of (much) smaller holes, along with a comically shaped head. This seems to allow for a fine flow at lower pressure/volume.

Again, I’m super appreciative of the input everyone provided. The end result is I’m Super happy! Watering today was I joy!

Does anyone want a dramm 1000 or 400 head? 1000 is basically new, 400 is older. Cost? Whatever it costs to ship to you. (FWIW, the 1000 head is nice - it’s as new, free except for shipping. I’ll send the 400, with a wand and shutoff, free but for shipping, but it is older).

 

[bwaynef]

Its dark out now, but I'll try to grab a picture of my setup tomorrow.

 

[bwaynef]

The only leaking I have is from the attachment mechanism. It doesn’t leak from the wand or the hose but where it separates. Other wands whose attachment nib isn’t as worn don’t leak as much. I bought a replacement but haven’t bothered putting it on yet. I’ve found the key to plumbing projects, large or small, is plumbers tape.

 

[MGTT]

The only leaking I have is from the attachment mechanism. It doesn’t leak from the wand or the hose but where it separates. Other wands whose attachment nib isn’t as worn don’t leak as much. I bought a replacement but haven’t bothered putting it on yet. I’ve found the key to plumbing projects, large or small, is plumbers tape.

I see, thanks for the pics!

My issue isn’t that I’m getting leaks at the joints, it’s that I can’t thread a brass shutoff (or quick release) into the wand - but I can screw on the dramm handle or a plastic shutoff with no issues.

Looking closer at the threads, I see the brass connectors I have are all blunt/flat at the crest of the thread. Whereas the dramm handle and plastic shutoffs have a sharper crest, which seems to lead to a more accurate thread pitch.

I suspect the Masakuni is ok with GHT, but the threads need to be more precisely formed than ‘standard’ garden hose fittings. I’ll probably try to find another brass shutoff with better threads - but that’s tough to do without holding it in hand!

I’m guessing your fittings are machined a little differently that allows them to thread on, but not precisely, leading to plumbers tape.
The way I currently have it setup, everything can easily be screwed tight to the washers, so no leaks.

I see your using the dramm shutoff. I saw them on Amazon, but they’re a little costly - however, I may try it, hoping it has the same thread quality as the dramm handle I have.

Thanks again for the pics, very helpful!

 

[MGTT]

After thinking on it further, I’m thinking the plastic shutoffs are injection molded, the threads aren’t, they’re molded in.

The dramm handle appears to be zinc diecast, so, again, the threads are ‘molded’ in during the casting.

But, all the brass fittings i have all have threads cut after they’re cast.

While subtle, I can see a difference in pitch between the two.

@vancehanna - I recall you have tooling/machining expertise - but not sure if it extended to thread forms. Any thoughts ?

 

[bwaynef]

Better garden centers usually carry dramm stuff. You might could get one in hand and compare before purchasing. I think this one came off a long wand I don't use anymore.

 

[MGTT]

Good idea! I usually default to big box stores. But we do have a few specialty garden stores. Thanks for the suggestion!

 

[vancehanna]

After thinking on it further, I’m thinking the plastic shutoffs are injection molded, the threads aren’t, they’re molded in.

The dramm handle appears to be zinc diecast, so, again, the threads are ‘molded’ in during the casting.

But, all the brass fittings i have all have threads cut after they’re cast.

While subtle, I can see a difference in pitch between the two.

@vancehanna - I recall you have tooling/machining expertise - but not sure if it extended to thread forms. Any thoughts ?

The die cast threads usually do leak and certainly a machines thread form as shown on the brass part are going to be better. Why not try some plumber Mylar pipe tape.
It might do the trick or at last resort some type of Atlantic sealer and screw it together..

 

[coachspinks]

The die cast threads usually do leak and certainly a machines thread form as shown on the brass part are going to be better. Why not try some plumber Mylar pipe tape.
It might do the trick or at last resort some type of Atlantic sealer and screw it together..

I have found the same thing to happen. The Dreyoo 2000 I recently purchased came with some tape and a fresh gasket, no leaks!

 

[Maiden69]

The only leaking I have is from the attachment mechanism. It doesn’t leak from the wand or the hose but where it separates. Other wands whose attachment nib isn’t as worn don’t leak as much. I bought a replacement but haven’t bothered putting it on yet. I’ve found the key to plumbing projects, large or small, is plumbers tape.

Easy fix for that is to go to Home depot or Lowes and get a new set of o'rings. I have the same quick connect and once they start leaking I change the ring and it is as good as new. Also, get some plumbing silicone and add a dab to the small ball bearings. It will help it lock easier.