Home made watering wand.

HENDO

Shohin
Messages
421
Reaction score
823
Location
Alberta, Canada
USDA Zone
4a
Sweet! The copper should hold up better than the thin-walled wands from the store. I'd like to try something like this using 1/4" NPT fittings.

What head are you using on this? Are you happy with the results?

Thanks for sharing!
 

rockm

Spuds Moyogi
Messages
14,316
Reaction score
22,564
Location
Fairfax Va.
USDA Zone
7
I thought about making one myself but never got around to sourcing the parts. Has to be way better then the store bought ones that never last.
If you're buying a copper watering wand (or making one from copper piping for whatever reason--and I can't see the reason for going to the trouble of doing all that and then scrimping on the head ;) ), they require some care, as do Japanese copper watering cans. Copper is soft. It bends and dents -even the thicker grades. The environment the watering nozzle works in can be hazardous to it's health. You can't throw that stuff around or leave it lying on the ground. Step on a copper wand and it messes things up pretty good, same as the cheap ones.

If you're buying cheap Japanese wands with plastic components (I have gone through a dozen at least), they're inexpensive for a reason--they wear out, or break, if left outside. The plastic head gaskets and shutoff valves can disintegrate in sunlight over a few years, handle them roughly, i.e. l tighten the head to tight , and they can crack. All this is true for western watering wands as well.

FWIW, after spending a lot of $$ on western Dramms, Haws, etc., over the years, I invested in a Kaneshin 21" copper wand a couple of years ago. It's been bulletproof, but I'm careful with it. I bring it inside for winter and hang it up above waist level when it's outside and is in use. Comparatively, it outperforms the Drams and Haws I've had. Head has 550 holes, double or triple the number of most western watering wands/watering can roses.
 

JackHammer

Chumono
Messages
507
Reaction score
559
Location
North Eastern Ohio
USDA Zone
5b
I have a dramm that works well. The only thing is that if it has lower flow, the water gushes and moves all the substrate around. I wish it didn't do that but haven't found a better option. I like the build and the very sturdy on/off valve.
 

Zac

Mame
Messages
105
Reaction score
80
Location
Mercersburg PA
USDA Zone
6b
If you're buying a copper watering wand (or making one from copper piping for whatever reason--and I can't see the reason for going to the trouble of doing all that and then scrimping on the head ;) ), they require some care, as do Japanese copper watering cans. Copper is soft. It bends and dents -even the thicker grades. The environment the watering nozzle works in can be hazardous to it's health. You can't throw that stuff around or leave it lying on the ground. Step on a copper wand and it messes things up pretty good, same as the cheap ones.

If you're buying cheap Japanese wands with plastic components (I have gone through a dozen at least), they're inexpensive for a reason--they wear out, or break, if left outside. The plastic head gaskets and shutoff valves can disintegrate in sunlight over a few years, handle them roughly, i.e. l tighten the head to tight , and they can crack. All this is true for western watering wands as well.

FWIW, after spending a lot of $$ on western Dramms, Haws, etc., over the years, I invested in a Kaneshin 21" copper wand a couple of years ago. It's been bulletproof, but I'm careful with it. I bring it inside for winter and hang it up above waist level when it's outside and is in use. Comparatively, it outperforms the Drams and Haws I've had. Head has 550 holes, double or triple the number of most western watering wands/watering can roses.
I've bought several of the dramms and yes the plastic parts always ware out or break and I take care of my stuff. I know about copper piping I've worked with it alot doing home renovations the newer copper pipe is way softer and thinner the the old copper pipe in my 1950 house. I also enjoy building and making and doing stuff myself instead of buying.
 

Orion_metalhead

Masterpiece
Messages
3,114
Reaction score
4,702
Location
Central NJ
USDA Zone
7a
Nice!! If you wanted to beed it up you could use type K for the copper... its thicker than M and L and is unlikely to degrade. You would need to go to a commerciap plumbing supply for it though - HD and Lowes dont carry it. A little more money, but it will be more durable.

The cheap head is fine - thats the replaceable part, and with 1/2" npt connection you can adapt to pretty much anything. Also all parts are repairable for pretty much pennies over needing to buy new wands every now and then.
 

Maiden69

Masterpiece
Messages
2,352
Reaction score
3,640
Location
Boerne, TX
USDA Zone
8b
I am also part of the group that has wasted plenty of money on wands. I think a good compromise is the DRAMM 480AL, as it uses the same orifice as the 750PL (Lemonhead) and the1000PL (Redhead). But in a more compact size. DRAM recently released the 1000 Assortment, where each color indicates the stream behavior. Wide/medium/narrow.

The first one I bought was the 170PL, as I thought being small it was going to be good for bonsai, nope... to coarse of a stream, requires more water pressure.
1693484729819.png

The 480PL and 480AL are much better, but still not comparable to Japanese wands. This I have for my in ground trees.
1693484777752.png

For trees in pots and seedlings I now use the Joshua Roth, which I think is a super bargain comparing it to a Kaneshin/Masakuni or other Japanese copper wand. I have this one for 2 years now and I had no issues with it. Flow is similar if not the same as the copper wands, very controllable with the supplied valve. I upgraded to a full handle from DRAMM. Unlike the similar Masakuni, the threads on the Joshua are 3/4FHT and will thread on a regular garden hose valve.
1693484970374.png

1693485019359.png
 

A. Gorilla

Omono
Messages
1,328
Reaction score
2,168
Location
N/E Illinois
USDA Zone
5b
The head was from the old POS I had with pressure fittings and plastic. I will upgrade the head.

Whatever grade of 1/2" copper I got was the right combo of weight and length. I wanted a bit longer than the normal store ones. Off-the-shelf worked out fine.

I will give thought to handle material.

Price...I dont remember. I was in a frenzy of doing other stuff for an air compressor and I rolled it in.
 

A. Gorilla

Omono
Messages
1,328
Reaction score
2,168
Location
N/E Illinois
USDA Zone
5b
I made an earlier version for which I got a red Dramm head. I gave that to someone else. It was much shorter and had a 90 degree brass elbow on the end instead of my 45 degree. 90 is not quite as comfy for launching the water, but its nice for close and low stuff.
 

Attachments

  • signal-2023-08-30-08-17-55-335.mp4
    9.3 MB
Last edited:

Perplexody

Shohin
Messages
251
Reaction score
497
Location
Willkes-barre Pennsylvania United States
USDA Zone
5
Here's my wand, took all of 30 minutes to solder up. Just needed to buy 2 of the couplings. The rest was laying around the water breaker is on order. But this old one is working for me for now
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20230906_234719892.MP.jpg
    PXL_20230906_234719892.MP.jpg
    183.8 KB · Views: 172

shimbrypaku

Shohin
Messages
422
Reaction score
414
Location
NC Zone 7
I did the same thing two years ago, aluminum wand wore out.
Found this link somewhere here on bnut


Made it all out of 3/4 copper and 3/4 cut off valve, Dram full volume breaker. Still going strong. No picture too dark out.

Thanks
 

johnl445

Yamadori
Messages
85
Reaction score
83
Location
Boston.
USDA Zone
6b
Has anyone used this wand yet, it looks gorgeous. It might be a touch short at 24”, but looking at the pictures, I bet you can add a piece of brass to extend it. IMG_7838.png
 

rockm

Spuds Moyogi
Messages
14,316
Reaction score
22,564
Location
Fairfax Va.
USDA Zone
7
Has anyone used this wand yet, it looks gorgeous. It might be a touch short at 24”, but looking at the pictures, I bet you can add a piece of brass to extend it. View attachment 515504
Have one. It sucks for bonsai. disturbs soil, inadquate number of holes in the watering head. Head is also too cumbersome and heavy if you're watering up close to trunks. It can snap off twigging pretty easily if you're not careful. It's meant for garden plants.
 
Top Bottom