Forsoothe!
Imperial Masterpiece
What's the point?Weren't you the one hawking the use of potting soil as the missing piece in the golden soil formula?
What's the point?Weren't you the one hawking the use of potting soil as the missing piece in the golden soil formula?
I don't have to. It's up to you to explain why your forest is different than the stuff you're criticizing. You wanted to have a discussion about this, discuss it.You're looking at naked trees choped a week ago. I'd bet your life the Mellow Mullet Willowleaf forest above looks just like that inside the leafy canopy, and that mine will look just fine with leaves. Show me better.
You're looking at naked trees choped a week ago. I'd bet your life the Mellow Mullet Willowleaf forest above looks just like that inside the leafy canopy, and that mine will look just fine with leaves. Show me better.
I’m sorry, but this forest is really poorly done. All the trunks are the same size. The overall shape (Silohette) of the foliage is formless and makes no sense. The pot is too deep. Especially given the thinness of the trunks. There’s no apparent “mother” tree. In short, this planting is not “show worthy”.You're right about the ~clumsy~ steps on the forest trunk transitions. I'm working on it. I disagree with the "multiple apexes" assessment, -that's how I like them, kind of a choppy sea. I have others with more continuous canopies which I think need to be trimmed to bumpy cloud tops. I like 2017 better than 2018.
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Very few people will pit themselves against the crowd, even when the crowd is wrong-headed. Maybe especially when the crowd is wrong-headed. The wrong-headed crowd here is about a half-dozen old timers who insist that only serious bonsai is allowed. The, "If you're going to do it, you've got to do it according to rigid standards. Their standards. Americans like to do it "My way" (their way). I say that's just fine as a way to develop a deeper interest in the hobby. I say encourage that. You take your student as you find him.
Whatever else is true, I am not a Master, nor will I become one. I am a hobbyist at best.
Ok, so this isn’t really a request to be “enlightened” at how “our brains work” with regard to admiring sumo trunks like you originally posted. This is you staking a controversial position against some of the studied guys so you can offer your “experienced” and unsolicited critique. Fair enough, game on.The top one is handsome. The bottom is a "Tater. I'm sure it took great effort and skill, but it's not handsome. It's really not handsome.
“There are people who practice Bonsai for 30 years, and people who practice Bonsai for 1 year, 30 times over.”
Up in the mountains, at high elevations, the air is dryer, the UV rays are stronger, there’s no mold, mildew, algae, or fungi to attack the deadwood to induce rot. So, yes, the deadwood is white, naturally. (Or a very light grey.)Don't want to hijack the topic, but I see all the white deadwood on the pictures @Adair M posted of the Junipers in the mountains.
I always thought the white coloring on deadwood came from treating it with Lime sulfur. Does this happen because of the exposure to the elements?
We don't have native Junipers here...
As for the tater discussion; I think it depends on the tree and is sometimes necessary to achieve a certain goal.
Whenever you chop a trunk for movement, you end up with a possible tater, no?
At least that's what I've been told.. To achieve a big trunk, you have to grow it out and chop it back when it has the desired thickness.
I'just a matter of what you do after the chop. I'm sure those big olive's you see here (like Adair's) were all taters at some point.
I'm not a huge fan of sumo's either, but I wanted at least one to add to my collection. Do you consider this a tater?
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You mean boon doesn’t take gallons of LS up in the mountains and make you SOBs paint the deadwood with tiny paintbrushes??Up in the mountains, at high elevations, the air is dryer, the UV rays are stronger, there’s no mold, mildew, algae, or fungi to attack the deadwood to induce rot. So, yes, the deadwood is white, naturally. (Or a very light grey.)
When we bring the collected trees down from that environment, the deadwood is now subjected to all those potential rotting elements, and it will start to rot! Lime sulfur is used to help prevent the rot, and it dries white, so it has the same look as the tree had in the mountains. There is some manner of skill necessary to make the line sulfur look natural. If painted on straight on dry wood, it will just look like white paint! The technique I use is to wet the deadwood, then let it dry out for about an hour. Then I apply a 50/50 mix of lime sulfur/water using a paint brush. The lime sulfur tends to absorb into the wood. When it dries, it won’t be as stark white, and the texture is the wood grain will still be evident.
Sssshhh!!!!You mean boon doesn’t take gallons of LS up in the mountains and make you SOBs paint the deadwood with tiny paintbrushes??
Ok good, just checking to be sure Bjorn wasn’t the only one making his students do this type of activity...?Sssshhh!!!!
Don’t tell! It’s our little secret!!!
This is how the old sifus teach his students to be patience. That will automatically remove lazy ones from the pact. Still very valid technique.You mean boon doesn’t take gallons of LS up in the mountains and make you SOBs paint the deadwood with tiny paintbrushes??
I wonder if this style originated from super old collected Tibetan Juniperus indica. Would make a lot of sense for the founders to model it after thisRe: the deadwood junipers... you live in the Netherlands, so there’s no native deadwood junipers where you live. Here in the southeast United States, there aren’t any here, either. I was much like you, I really didn’t appreciate the deadwood junipers because we don’t have them in my environment.
When I started studying with Boon, he had many in his garden. Some finished bonsai and a lot of raw material. Seeing the raw collected material gave me a better idea of what they look like “for real”.
And then, Boon took a couple of us up into the mountains to see the trees:
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That deadwood doesn’t look so artificial to me now!
Seiju Elm from a pencil in ~2002, RIP 2015, and Tamarack forest assembled in 2003 from trees collected by a friend in ~1995. I started bonsai in 1999, Master Gardener, 1978. These qualification questions have no place in a discussion of likes and dislikes. By asking them you imply that someone with some ~acceptable~ level of understanding decides what is good and what is not good. That, is exactly what I object to. And it's why many clubs have Best of Show awarded by judges and People's Choice Award chosen by the attending public, and they only rarely chose the same tree.I doesn't, really, it doesn't. There are some chops, most of which have healed. The trees' trunks have taper and the branches have ramification, lots of it. I will post a picture when it gets repotted in April and partially defoliated. How old is your composition? You may be comparing apples to oranges, as mine is pretty old.
You still did not answer my two questions.
Are those your best efforts and how long have you been at it?