leatherback
The Treedeemer
Alternative: Pure sand will not support fungal life by itself. So it might be less prone to losses by fungi?the old Japanese method specified sand,
Alternative: Pure sand will not support fungal life by itself. So it might be less prone to losses by fungi?the old Japanese method specified sand,
@Dav4 careful......Ume can lead you down the rabbit holeLook at what you all made me do! Kobai and Regular seedlings, top cut sealed with wood glue, stored upright in moist sand, one batch in the fridge and one batch outside in the shade… Do I have that right ? You can never have enough flowering apricots!
View attachment 346611
single edge razor blade used in scraper, slice not push down, on a damp softwood surface, similar technique to cutting for scion grafts.Whew, just got done fixing the first batch. Very tedious work, so ill be taking ones from my other trees tomorrow. This should be better.
I'm finding it hard still to get a clean cut on the larger twigs even with a new box blade. Crushes the thicker twigs sometimes, any suggestions? Probably just need to get a grafting knife...
Ume can lead you down the rabbit hole
It might also be the perfect breeding ground for evil fungi and bacteria, since the only stuff they can eat are the cuttings.Alternative: Pure sand will not support fungal life by itself. So it might be less prone to losses by fungi?
Just using the sunlight from the windows? Mine havent even started callous, but were taken much later- yours already grown callous?Got the set-up stable this weekend
100% humidity
24C (75F) bottom heat
Just using the sunlight from the windows?
yours already grown callous?
I was reading thru a trove of old Int'l Bonsai magazines I recently acquired and there's an article in one of them on P. mume from cuttings. A lot of it is covered in this thread.
Yes, I normally reserve the lighting except for ambient room light, until leaves begin to emerge. Typically roots should be observable emerging from the bottom of small pots within six to eight weeks! That is, if individual cuttings are placed in 2 inch pots for propagation. Progress is going to be variable in every set up. Lots of variation just within the thickness of the cutting.I've heard there's no guarantee with these things, but it sure is exciting to see green emerging!
@River's Edge there are no signs of roots yet on the cuttings that are starting to open their leaf buds. Callus ranges from light to aggressive. Do you think opening the lights at this stage would cause them to grow and dehydrate faster than they otherwise would, thus reducing the time-period during which they might produce roots? They are in 100% humidity. You mentioned turning the lights on at bud-break last year. I was curious if you're doing the same this year?
I remove the flower buds when I can safely do so without risking damage to the leaf buds that emerge just below the flower buds. Typically this is when planting or after planting the cutting. Simply on the basis that it may save a minuscule amount of energy reserve as well as prevent additional risk of fungal development as the blooms deteriorate over time in the enclosed humidity.I am trying this as well. However my cuttings have lots of flower buds that have swelled a bit over the time in the fridge. Should I keep them or remove them? If remove, now or before planting them?