Prunus Mume Propagation by Hardwood Cuttings During Early Winter - The Peter Adams Method

[River's Edge]

Did you propagate them in 100% pumice with a top dressing of moss? Or did you use moss throughout your media?

The propagation tray, separate pots were set up the same! Drainage layer 1/2 inch deep of medium size pumice. Size left between large and medium 3 set screen. 4 inch deep small pumice with small amount of shredded sphagnum moss. 1 part shredded moss to 9 parts small pumice. ( fines removed)
Top dressed with shredded sphagnum moss. Humidity retained with clear plastic enclosure. Plastic painting drop sheet stretched over a wooden frame to provide reasonable humidity control and air space. Much like a small cold frame. Small computer fan mounted to provide air movement and prevent mold!
The fan was used very little as the height of the frame provided a good volume of air. The roof of the enclosure did not accumulate water and drip on the cuttings which I think is very important! It was stretched tight and stapled to prevent sag! A better design would show a peak centre line to make it easier, but that would interfere with light bars later in the process!
Hope that clarifies my original comments. Here is a picture of the set up with a variety of cuttings in place!

 

[エドガー]

What month did you take the cuttings?
How long inside greenhouse before introducing to real world?

 

[River's Edge]

What month did you take the cuttings?
How long inside greenhouse before introducing to real world?

cuttings taken in late November!
Went into fridge at that point!
Out of fridge beginning of January!
Cuttings in tray and or pots at that time!
Introduced to outside in April with greenhouse protection. Windows and doors open! Used extra heat from sun to boost the new leaves and adjust to less humidity gradually!
Placed outside under shade cloth in the beginning of may.
Roughly a five month process.

 

[namnhi]

cuttings taken in late November!
Went into fridge at that point!
Out of fridge beginning of January!
Cuttings in tray and or pots at that time!
Introduced to outside in April with greenhouse protection. Windows and doors open! Used extra heat from sun to boost the new leaves and adjust to less humidity gradually!
Placed outside under shade cloth in the beginning of may.
Roughly a five month process.

Is there a reason to harvest I November then put in fridge until Jan?
Thanks

 

[River's Edge]

Is there a reason to harvest I November then put in fridge until Jan?
Thanks

Yes there is. My understanding is that the cooler temperatures slow down some processes ( bud development) but allow the cutting to begin callus and root formation! If I understand it correctly this gives the cutting a head start without using reserves for other processes until the callus formation is well under way! Keep in mind I do not pretend to be a horticultural expert. Simply trying recommended methods and reporting on my progress!
If you wish a thorough discussion of the factors affecting hardwood cuttings I would refer you to " the Reference Manual of Woody Plant propagation".

 

[Canada Bonsai]

cuttings taken in late November!
Went into fridge at that point!
Out of fridge beginning of January!
Cuttings in tray and or pots at that time!
Introduced to outside in April with greenhouse protection. Windows and doors open! Used extra heat from sun to boost the new leaves and adjust to less humidity gradually!
Placed outside under shade cloth in the beginning of may.

Thank you for sharing Frank! Wow, this is such good news! This made my day/month/year!

I'm reading through your process, and i'm wondering when during this process did you put them under your lights -- between January and April?

Can I please ask what kind of lights you used, and for how many hours per day?

I'm in the process of setting up my propagation house now in Halifax, with heated bed etc. I have always had success with maples without any lights, but if Ume work better with lights i will definitely add them!

 

[River's Edge]

Thank you for sharing Frank! Wow, this is such good news! This made my day/month/year!

I'm reading through your process, and i'm wondering when during this process did you put them under your lights -- between January and April?

Can I please ask what kind of lights you used, and for how many hours per day?

I'm in the process of setting up my propagation house now in Halifax, with heated bed etc. I have always had success with maples without any lights, but if Ume work better with lights i will definitely add them!

Keep in mind I am not a techie, I feel the heat mat is a more important factor once the callus has formed and root formation is beginning! Of course I did not use lights until leaf buds were opening. Then I used them continuously! Was easier then hooking up timers or remembering to turn on and off. Simple Led units from Home Depot. Made by Feit Electric LED Growlights , It was not strong lighting and was outside the plastic enclosure so reduced in strength! I suspect t5 would work just as well! Keep in mind I purchased units that were lighter to sit on top of a frame and was looking for certain dimensions for the frame. There are units for vegetative growth and floral growth. I combined them as they link together! They look like this! The smaller units were placed on the outside with the main unit centered. This allowed a mix of the light spectrum and balanced the overall weight on the frame.

 

[エドガー]

Yes there is. My understanding is that the cooler temperatures slow down some processes ( bud development) but allow the cutting to begin callus and root formation! If I understand it correctly this gives the cutting a head start without using reserves for other processes until the callus formation is well under way! Keep in mind I do not pretend to be a horticultural expert. Simply trying recommended methods and reporting on my progress!
If you wish a thorough discussion of the factors affecting hardwood cuttings I would refer you to " the Reference Manual of Woody Plant propagation".

Wow.. thanks for the detailed steps and tips! Ah, so you're doing hardwood cuttings.
I assume no soil when in fridge, correct? Just in a bag or something?

I wonder if your method would work with acer p too. (like the harder to strike cultivars...shishigashira, dissectums, etc.)

Have you ever tried wrapping hardwood cuttings in parafilm?
I saw a YT video of a fruit grower using this method for hardwood cuttings of figs.
I guess it keeps in moisture. And it's also relatively porous. In spring, the buds break through the parafilm.

 

[River's Edge]

Wow.. thanks for the detailed steps and tips! Ah, so you're doing hardwood cuttings.
I assume no soil when in fridge, correct? Just in a bag or something?

I wonder if your method would work with acer p too. (like the harder to strike cultivars...shishigashira, dissectums, etc.)

Have you ever tried wrapping hardwood cuttings in parafilm?
I saw a YT video of a fruit grower using this method for hardwood cuttings of figs.
I guess it keeps in moisture. And it's also relatively porous. In spring, the buds break through the parafilm.

zip lock baggie, paper towel.
My experience with the new parafilm stretchy grafting tape has been mediocre! Done just right it works well on Juniper, not as useful for pine grafting in my opinion. fail to see how it would work well with bud breaking and leaf emergence! Prefer baggies with sphagnum moss inside for moisture control. Allows more space for air and unrestricted growth initially!
Whenever I see pictures of it being used, I often note that it is very opaque because the person did not stretch it properly when applied! This alone limits the effectiveness from the outset. Limited light transmission and breathability! It is meant to be stretched until clear without tearing and then applied.

 

[エドガー]

So, callous forms by January? (if putting cuttings in fridge in November)... wow, I gotta try this!

I only had callous on my satsuki air-layers after I cut them off at 3 months in... thought they were a fail at first, but used them as cuttings anyways... 14 out of 14 still alive, new growth and green 7-8 months later!

 

[エドガー]

Will your technique work with acer p?
I know most people usually use semi-hard/June cuttings for acer ps.

 

[River's Edge]

So, callous forms by January? (if putting cuttings in fridge in November)... wow, I gotta try this!

I only had callous on my satsuki air-layers after I cut them off at 3 months in... thought they were a fail at first, but used them as cuttings anyways... 14 out of 14 still alive, new growth and green 7-8 months later!

Callus formation gets a good head start in that time, I would not say it is complete.

 

[River's Edge]

Will your technique work with acer p?
I know most people usually use semi-hard/June cuttings for acer ps.

Not my technique! Working with techniques from Peter Adam's book and modifying with suggestions taken from Dirr and Heuser. Simply followed others suggestions for difficult to strike cuttings. Will continue to experiment, lots of room for improvement. For example the Kobai cultivar is stronger than Matsubara Red. need to work on that one for sure!

 

[エドガー]

I assume from your replies... bud-formation is always happening in a plant/cutting and it is that what takes up too much energy (before callous/roots are even formed, in order to support that new bud growth), resulting in the cutting dying early... so the fridge slows down this bud growth, but not callous/roots formation.... thus, a head start.

 

[Canada Bonsai]

Thanks again for all the insights and advice! This kept me awake in bed and smiling all night!

I was hoping I could please ask about a few more specifics?

Better results with thicker cuttings

1 - Was it just girth itself that caught your attention, or also age? i.e. When you took the cuttings in November, did you only use growth that pushed from March to November of the same year, or did you also cut into growth from previous years? If so, did you track it and notice a difference?

2 - I noticed a little fertilizer (?) on the surface around the cuttings in your picture in post #18. Can I please ask what it is/when it was applied etc.?

3 - I've been chatting with Brent about Ume cuttings for over 2 years now. He mentioned recently the idea of using fungicides (or at least Root Tone, which includes a fungicide). Was wondering if you used any fungicides or rooting hormones? My teacher uses Stim-Root #3 on his successful Ume cuttings taken in May.

I feel the heat mat is a more important factor once the callus has formed and root formation is beginning!

Bottom temp 18C (65F)?

 

[Bonsai Nut]

He mentioned recently the idea of using fungicides (or at least Root Tone, which includes a fungicide). Was wondering if you used any fungicides or rooting hormones?

Following this thread, and just going to add a comment. Sphagnum moss has natural anti-fungal properties. I use it in most cases when I put something in the fridge that needs humidity, but I am concerned about possible damping/fungus problems.

 

[River's Edge]

Thanks again for all the insights and advice! This kept me awake in bed and smiling all night!

I was hoping I could please ask about a few more specifics?



1 - Was it just girth itself that caught your attention, or also age? i.e. When you took the cuttings in November, did you only use growth that pushed from March to November of the same year, or did you also cut into growth from previous years? If so, did you track it and notice a difference?

2 - I noticed a little fertilizer (?) on the surface around the cuttings in your picture in post #18. Can I please ask what it is/when it was applied etc.?

3 - I've been chatting with Brent about Ume cuttings for over 2 years now. He mentioned recently the idea of using fungicides (or at least Root Tone, which includes a fungicide). Was wondering if you used any fungicides or rooting hormones? My teacher uses Stim-Root #3 on his successful Ume cuttings taken in May.



Bottom temp 18C (65F)?

1.Juvenility is a critical factor in success, current years growth only!
2. I make my own organic fertilizer, suggest one that is low numbers, all three below 10. Lots of options out there! I applied when the leaves were just opening. Remember in this situation, inorganic soil medium primarily, it takes a while for the organic fertilizer to break down to available elements for uptake! Another safe option is dilute liquid fish fertilizer! ( not my preference if indoors).
3. I used hydrogen peroxide in water to mist cuttings weekly and also for initial drench watering source.( credit this idea from Osoyoung) Pre-treated the small particle pumice with same solution and then dried thoroughly before use! My pumice comes bagged and is often damp inside the bag so after sifting to size the pumice used for cuttings and seedlings is treated! ( how effective this treatment is I have no idea! ). I wash the pumice thoroughly to remove fines prior to treatment! Used a grey powder ( StimRoot #3) meant for hardwood cuttings. available in most garden centres.
4. My setting was a bit higher 72F,


The approach I used to research this was to start with known approaches, basically the notes from Peter Adams and from discussion with Brent. I then went to The Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation and studied the approach to Prunus cuttings, particularly those known to be difficult, looking for commonalities in successful approaches! Note: Prunus Mume is not in the book. I then went back to study the factors that affect root formation and the factors that affect cutting success in general. I also noted the factors that increase fungal issues. ( a big problem with prunus mume)
After that trial and error! Lots of room for improvement, it is a good thing younger generations exist, inquiring minds and all that!
Remember I am not a horticulturist, simply working on a puzzle with tools available!

 

[エドガー]

Fungus/mold is always a big problem, esp in a humid, moist enclosure/greenhouse (my main worry for my cuttings... and I think many died because of this)... hydrogen peroxide sounds like a great and safer idea! (I've been really considering Daconil; but idk if Daconil will have negative repercussions on super sensitive cuttings)

How much hydrogen peroxide do you use in the water dilution? (let's say, in a 32oz. spray bottle or for 1-2gal watering cans.. and which strength hydrogen peroxide you use?)

 

[River's Edge]

Fungus/mold is always a big problem, esp in a humid, moist enclosure/greenhouse (my main worry for my cuttings... and I think many died because of this)... hydrogen peroxide sounds like a great and safer idea! (I've been really considering Daconil; but idk if Daconil will have negative repercussions on super sensitive cuttings)

How much hydrogen peroxide do you use in the water dilution? (let's say, in a 32oz. spray bottle or for 1-2gal watering cans.. and which strength hydrogen peroxide you use?)

Time for Homework!
Check out Osoyoungs advice in this forum!

 

[エドガー]

Fungicide for stratifying seeds

Starting a ton of different seeds this winter, and as I've been researching, several different sources recommend occasionally spraying a fungicide inside the ziplock bag while the seeds are stratifying in the fridge. Any reason why I couldn't/shouldn't use the one pictured below? Cheers, Paul

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