What technology is this referring to? I couldn't find the reference, sorry if i missed it.
Prunus Mume Propagation by Hardwood Cuttings During Early Winter - The Peter Adams Method
- Thread starter RobertB
- Start date
Do you know how I might come by back issues of this?
Paradox
Marine Bonsologist
You would need to check the American Bonsai Society web page. I dont recall them offering back issues.
The only other way is to find someone with issues they want to sell.
There are a bunch for sale on Ebay
Last edited:
For my own sake, I used ChatGPT to make a summary of the entire thread, but I thought it might be worthwhile to share it for others.
I directed ChatGPT to use ONLY information it derived from the comments I gave it in my original prompt, not to editorialize. And I've consolidated and reorganized things a lot. I skipped over most chitchat, but ultimately there were nearly 60 back-and-forths that were included and the transcript came to almost 11,000 words (I didn't just CTRL+A, CTRL+C, CTRL+V the whole thread, I went through and pulled out only relevant bits manually).
I hope it is accurate, but I will edit with any feedback I receive. There are also some open questions at the end. @River's Edge, your review would be valuable if you have the time.
Important Considerations: Choose branches that are about 3/8 inch thick, as thicker cuttings tend to have more energy reserves, leading to a higher success rate. If the cuts appear crushed, remake them until they are clean and sharp.
Important Considerations: The substrate (sphagnum moss or sand) should be visually moist but not waterlogged. Regularly check for any signs of mold, and ensure the cuttings remain moist but not soaked.
Important Considerations: Check the moisture level in the bag visually every two weeks. If the substrate appears dry, mist it lightly with the peroxide solution. The substrate should remain evenly moist throughout the storage period. If mold develops, adjust the moisture levels by reducing dampness and misting with the peroxide solution.
Important Considerations: Callus formation should begin around 4 weeks into storage. If no callus is visible after 8 weeks, it may be best to discard the cuttings. Only proceed to the next phase if the cuttings show signs of callus or resistance to tugging.
Important Considerations: The particle size of the pumice should be less than 3 mm to ensure proper drainage while retaining enough moisture. The rooting hormone helps increase the chances of successful rooting, especially for more difficult cultivars.
Important Considerations: Ensure that water does not drip onto the cuttings from the enclosure, as this could lead to mold growth. The enclosure should be tightly sealed to maintain humidity, but some air movement is necessary to prevent mold. As roots begin to develop, slowly reduce the humidity inside the enclosure by opening it slightly over time.
Important Considerations: Avoid excessive light, as this can cause the cuttings to dehydrate too quickly. Ensure that the light does not generate too much heat inside the enclosure, as this could disrupt the high-humidity environment needed for root development.
Important Considerations: Monitor the development of roots by observing the growth of the plant and checking for roots emerging from the bottom of the pots. Avoid disturbing the root system during this delicate phase.
Important Considerations: Ensure the cuttings remain in a high-humidity environment during the transition by slowly reducing the enclosure opening over a period of weeks. Watch for signs of stress, such as wilting or leaf drop, and adjust conditions as needed.
Important Considerations: Ensure the root system is well-established before transplanting. Maintain high humidity and monitor moisture levels during the transplant process to avoid shock.
Important Considerations: Examine the leaves regularly for yellowing, and adjust care as needed to promote healthy growth. If necessary, use foliar sprays to supplement nutrients until the root system is fully functional.
Problem: Crushed or Damaged Cut Ends
Problem: Mold Development on Cuttings
Problem: Lack of Callus Formation
Problem: Root Development Issues
Problem: Dehydration of Cuttings
Problem: Chlorosis (Yellowing Leaves)
Problem: Weak Root System After Transplanting
A: Select one-year-old apical branches (the topmost branches of the tree) with 3-6 nodes. Thicker cuttings (around 3/8 inch) tend to have higher success rates due to greater energy reserves.
Q: How should the cuttings be made?
A: Make clean cuts just below the lowest bud using a sharp tool like a razor blade or grafting knife. The cuts should be clean and sharp, without crushing the tissue. Seal the top of the cutting with Kaneshin sealant to prevent moisture loss.
Q: How should the cuttings be treated before storage?
A: Soak the cuttings in a hydrogen peroxide solution (2-3 tbsp/quart of water) to prevent fungal growth. Place the cut ends in damp sphagnum moss or sand inside a zip-lock bag, ensuring the cut ends are in contact with the substrate.
A: Store the cuttings in the refrigerator at 35-40°F (1.5-4°C). This cold temperature slows down bud development while allowing callus formation to begin.
Q: How should moisture levels be monitored during storage?
A: Check the moisture level visually every two weeks. The substrate should remain evenly moist, but not waterlogged. If the substrate appears dry, lightly mist it with the peroxide solution.
Q: How do you know when callus formation is sufficient to proceed to the next phase?
A: Callus formation should start around 4 weeks into storage. If you see a white, bumpy tissue around the cut end or feel resistance when gently tugging the cutting, it's a good indicator that the cutting is ready for planting.
A: Use a mix of small particle pumice and akadama. Fine particles should be placed in the center, with slightly larger particles around the cutting. Before planting, dip the cut ends into Clonex Purple (3.0 g/L IBA) rooting hormone to encourage root development.
Q: How should humidity be controlled after planting?
A: Create a high-humidity environment by covering the pots with a clear plastic enclosure. Maintain 100% humidity initially, which should be gradually reduced as roots develop.
Q: What is the role of lighting during this phase?
A: Once leaf buds begin to open, provide the cuttings with continuous low-strength LED grow lights, positioned outside the plastic enclosure to reduce intensity and prevent overheating. The light spectrum should support vegetative growth.
Q: When should bottom heat be introduced?
A: Place the pots on a heat mat set to 65-72°F (18-22°C) to encourage rooting. This should be done after the cuttings have been planted and are in the enclosure.
A: Gradually transition the cuttings to outdoor conditions by opening the enclosure and reducing humidity. Begin by placing the cuttings under shade cloth and gradually increasing their exposure to sunlight.
Q: When should the cuttings be transplanted into larger pots?
A: After one growing season, when the roots are fully developed, transplant the cuttings into larger pots without disturbing the root ball. Continue using a mix of pumice and akadama for optimal root development.
Q: How can chlorosis or nutrient deficiencies be managed?
A: Monitor the cuttings for signs of chlorosis (yellowing leaves) or nutrient deficiencies. Use diluted iron sulfate or magnesium sulfate sprays if necessary to correct these issues.
I directed ChatGPT to use ONLY information it derived from the comments I gave it in my original prompt, not to editorialize. And I've consolidated and reorganized things a lot. I skipped over most chitchat, but ultimately there were nearly 60 back-and-forths that were included and the transcript came to almost 11,000 words (I didn't just CTRL+A, CTRL+C, CTRL+V the whole thread, I went through and pulled out only relevant bits manually).
I hope it is accurate, but I will edit with any feedback I receive. There are also some open questions at the end. @River's Edge, your review would be valuable if you have the time.
Comprehensive Guide to Propagating
Introduction
Prunus Mume is a species that can be challenging to propagate, but with the right techniques and timing, success is achievable. Some cultivars, such as 'Kobai,' have been noted for their higher success rates, while others like 'Matsubara Red' may be more difficult. This guide will take you through each phase of the propagation process, with specific steps and conditions highlighted for best results.Phase 1: Collection and Preparation (0-1 Weeks Post-Cutting)
Step 1: Select and Cut Branches (Late November)
Select one-year-old apical branches—these are the topmost branches of the tree that have grown in the current year—with 3-6 nodes. Make a clean cut just below the lowest bud on the branch. Use a single-edge razor blade, sharp grafting knife, or pruning shears on a damp softwood surface to avoid crushing the branch. After cutting, seal the top of the cutting with Kaneshin sealant to prevent moisture loss and infection.Important Considerations: Choose branches that are about 3/8 inch thick, as thicker cuttings tend to have more energy reserves, leading to a higher success rate. If the cuts appear crushed, remake them until they are clean and sharp.
Step 2: Soak and Store Cuttings (Immediately After Collection)
Soak the cuttings in a solution of hydrogen peroxide and water to prevent fungal growth. Use a dilution of 2-3 tablespoons of hydrogen peroxide per quart of water. Once soaked, place the cut ends of the cuttings in damp sphagnum moss or sand inside a zip-lock bag. Ensure the cut ends are in contact with the damp substrate, and bundle the cuttings in the same orientation for easier handling later.Important Considerations: The substrate (sphagnum moss or sand) should be visually moist but not waterlogged. Regularly check for any signs of mold, and ensure the cuttings remain moist but not soaked.
Phase 2: Storage (1-8 Weeks Post-Cutting)
Step 3: Store Cuttings (1-8 Weeks)
Place the zip-lock bag containing the cuttings horizontally in the refrigerator at a temperature of 35-40°F (1.5-4°C). This cold storage slows down the development of the buds and allows the cuttings to begin callus formation, which is crucial for rooting.Important Considerations: Check the moisture level in the bag visually every two weeks. If the substrate appears dry, mist it lightly with the peroxide solution. The substrate should remain evenly moist throughout the storage period. If mold develops, adjust the moisture levels by reducing dampness and misting with the peroxide solution.
Step 4: Monitor Callus Formation (1-8 Weeks)
Every two weeks, check the cuttings for signs of callus development. Callus is a white, bumpy tissue that forms around the cut end and is an indicator that the cutting is preparing to root. Gently tug the cutting—if there is resistance, it is a good sign that the cutting is forming roots or has developed a strong callus.Important Considerations: Callus formation should begin around 4 weeks into storage. If no callus is visible after 8 weeks, it may be best to discard the cuttings. Only proceed to the next phase if the cuttings show signs of callus or resistance to tugging.
Phase 3: Planting and Root Development (8-16 Weeks Post-Cutting)
Step 5: Prepare Propagation Setup (8 Weeks Post-Cutting)
Prepare individual 4-inch pots with a well-draining mix of small particle pumice and akadama, using fine particles in the center and slightly larger particles around the cutting. Before planting, dip the cut ends of the cuttings into Clonex Purple (3.0 g/L IBA) rooting hormone to encourage root development. Plant the cuttings vertically, ensuring that at least two nodes are buried in the substrate.Important Considerations: The particle size of the pumice should be less than 3 mm to ensure proper drainage while retaining enough moisture. The rooting hormone helps increase the chances of successful rooting, especially for more difficult cultivars.
Step 6: Humidity Control (Immediately After Planting)
Create a high-humidity environment by covering the pots with a clear plastic enclosure. This enclosure can be as simple as a plastic bag or a more sophisticated setup with a small fan to provide air circulation. The goal is to maintain 100% humidity initially, which will gradually be reduced as roots develop.Important Considerations: Ensure that water does not drip onto the cuttings from the enclosure, as this could lead to mold growth. The enclosure should be tightly sealed to maintain humidity, but some air movement is necessary to prevent mold. As roots begin to develop, slowly reduce the humidity inside the enclosure by opening it slightly over time.
Phase 4: Lighting and Transition to Outdoors (16-24 Weeks Post-Cutting)
Step 7: Introduce Lighting (16 Weeks Post-Cutting)
Once leaf buds begin to open, provide the cuttings with continuous low-strength LED grow lights, such as Feit Electric Growlights. Position the lights outside the plastic enclosure to reduce intensity and prevent overheating. The light spectrum should support vegetative growth.Important Considerations: Avoid excessive light, as this can cause the cuttings to dehydrate too quickly. Ensure that the light does not generate too much heat inside the enclosure, as this could disrupt the high-humidity environment needed for root development.
Step 8: Root Development and Bottom Heat (16-24 Weeks Post-Cutting)
Place the pots on a heat mat set to 65-72°F (18-22°C) to encourage rooting. Continue to monitor moisture levels and adjust as needed. Keep the cuttings in the enclosure until roots are well-established, typically after 6-8 weeks.Important Considerations: Monitor the development of roots by observing the growth of the plant and checking for roots emerging from the bottom of the pots. Avoid disturbing the root system during this delicate phase.
Phase 5: Transition to Outdoors and Post-Propagation Care (6-12 Months Post-Cutting)
Step 9: Transition to Outdoors (6-8 Months Post-Cutting)
Gradually acclimate the cuttings to outdoor conditions by opening the enclosure and reducing humidity. Begin by placing the cuttings under shade cloth and gradually increasing their exposure to sunlight.Important Considerations: Ensure the cuttings remain in a high-humidity environment during the transition by slowly reducing the enclosure opening over a period of weeks. Watch for signs of stress, such as wilting or leaf drop, and adjust conditions as needed.
Step 10: Transplanting (12 Months Post-Cutting)
Once roots are fully developed, transplant the cuttings into larger pots without disturbing the root ball. Continue using a mix of pumice and akadama to support optimal root development.Important Considerations: Ensure the root system is well-established before transplanting. Maintain high humidity and monitor moisture levels during the transplant process to avoid shock.
Step 11: Ongoing Care (12+ Months Post-Cutting)
Monitor the cuttings for signs of chlorosis (yellowing leaves) or nutrient deficiencies. Use diluted iron sulfate or magnesium sulfate sprays if necessary to correct these issues. Maintain proper watering and humidity levels as the cuttings continue to grow.Important Considerations: Examine the leaves regularly for yellowing, and adjust care as needed to promote healthy growth. If necessary, use foliar sprays to supplement nutrients until the root system is fully functional.
Open Questions
- What specific method should be used to ensure roots are developing without disturbing them during the rooting phase?
- How much should the humidity be reduced after initial rooting, and what is the best method to manage this reduction?
- Is there a recommended light spectrum for the LED grow lights used during the propagation process?
- Is there any specific nutrient regime recommended during the transition phase outdoors?
- How does the initial health of the mother plant affect the success rate of cuttings?
- What are the best practices for dealing with cuttings that show delayed or uneven callus formation?
- Are there any specific signs that indicate when to remove the cuttings from the enclosure during root development?
- How should cuttings be protected from pests during the transition to outdoor conditions?
Common Problems and How to Resolve Them
Problem: Crushed or Damaged Cut Ends
- Cause: Using dull or inappropriate tools to make the cuts.
- Resolution: Always use a sharp razor blade, grafting knife, or pruning shears on a damp softwood surface to make clean cuts. If the cut appears crushed, remake it until it is clean and sharp. Seal the top of the cutting with Kaneshin sealant to prevent moisture loss.
Problem: Mold Development on Cuttings
- Cause: Excessive moisture or poor air circulation during storage.
- Resolution: Monitor moisture levels closely and ensure the substrate is evenly moist but not waterlogged. If mold appears, mist the cuttings lightly with a hydrogen peroxide solution and reduce the moisture slightly. Ensure that the storage bag or enclosure allows for some air circulation to prevent mold.
Problem: Lack of Callus Formation
- Cause: Inadequate storage conditions or insufficient time in cold storage.
- Resolution: Ensure that the cuttings are stored at a consistent temperature of 35-40°F (1.5-4°C) in the refrigerator. Check for callus formation every two weeks. If no callus forms after 8 weeks, it may be best to discard the cuttings and consider adjusting the storage conditions for future attempts.
Problem: Root Development Issues
- Cause: Inadequate substrate or poor humidity control.
- Resolution: Use a well-draining substrate with small particle pumice and akadama. Apply Clonex Purple rooting hormone to the cut ends before planting. Create a high-humidity environment with a clear plastic enclosure, and gradually reduce humidity as roots develop. Place the pots on a heat mat set to 65-72°F (18-22°C) to encourage rooting.
Problem: Dehydration of Cuttings
- Cause: Excessive light or inadequate humidity during the early stages.
- Resolution: Use low-strength LED grow lights positioned outside the plastic enclosure to reduce intensity. Maintain 100% humidity initially and gradually reduce it as the cuttings establish roots. Ensure the enclosure remains tightly sealed to retain moisture, but allow some air movement to prevent mold.
Problem: Chlorosis (Yellowing Leaves)
- Cause: Nutrient deficiencies or improper soil pH.
- Resolution: Monitor the cuttings regularly for signs of chlorosis. If yellowing occurs, use diluted iron sulfate or magnesium sulfate sprays to correct nutrient imbalances. Ensure the cuttings are planted in a well-balanced, slightly acidic substrate (e.g., akadama and pumice).
Problem: Weak Root System After Transplanting
- Cause: Disturbing the roots too soon or inadequate substrate for root development.
- Resolution: Avoid transplanting until the root system is well-established, typically after one growing season. When transplanting, use a slightly larger pot and continue using a mix of pumice and akadama to support root development. Handle the root ball carefully to avoid disturbing the roots.
FAQs
Collection and Preparation Phase
Q: What type of branches should be selected for cuttings?A: Select one-year-old apical branches (the topmost branches of the tree) with 3-6 nodes. Thicker cuttings (around 3/8 inch) tend to have higher success rates due to greater energy reserves.
Q: How should the cuttings be made?
A: Make clean cuts just below the lowest bud using a sharp tool like a razor blade or grafting knife. The cuts should be clean and sharp, without crushing the tissue. Seal the top of the cutting with Kaneshin sealant to prevent moisture loss.
Q: How should the cuttings be treated before storage?
A: Soak the cuttings in a hydrogen peroxide solution (2-3 tbsp/quart of water) to prevent fungal growth. Place the cut ends in damp sphagnum moss or sand inside a zip-lock bag, ensuring the cut ends are in contact with the substrate.
Storage Phase
Q: What temperature should the cuttings be stored at?A: Store the cuttings in the refrigerator at 35-40°F (1.5-4°C). This cold temperature slows down bud development while allowing callus formation to begin.
Q: How should moisture levels be monitored during storage?
A: Check the moisture level visually every two weeks. The substrate should remain evenly moist, but not waterlogged. If the substrate appears dry, lightly mist it with the peroxide solution.
Q: How do you know when callus formation is sufficient to proceed to the next phase?
A: Callus formation should start around 4 weeks into storage. If you see a white, bumpy tissue around the cut end or feel resistance when gently tugging the cutting, it's a good indicator that the cutting is ready for planting.
Planting and Root Development Phase
Q: What type of substrate should be used for planting?A: Use a mix of small particle pumice and akadama. Fine particles should be placed in the center, with slightly larger particles around the cutting. Before planting, dip the cut ends into Clonex Purple (3.0 g/L IBA) rooting hormone to encourage root development.
Q: How should humidity be controlled after planting?
A: Create a high-humidity environment by covering the pots with a clear plastic enclosure. Maintain 100% humidity initially, which should be gradually reduced as roots develop.
Q: What is the role of lighting during this phase?
A: Once leaf buds begin to open, provide the cuttings with continuous low-strength LED grow lights, positioned outside the plastic enclosure to reduce intensity and prevent overheating. The light spectrum should support vegetative growth.
Q: When should bottom heat be introduced?
A: Place the pots on a heat mat set to 65-72°F (18-22°C) to encourage rooting. This should be done after the cuttings have been planted and are in the enclosure.
Transition to Outdoors and Post-Propagation Care Phase
Q: How should the cuttings be acclimated to outdoor conditions?A: Gradually transition the cuttings to outdoor conditions by opening the enclosure and reducing humidity. Begin by placing the cuttings under shade cloth and gradually increasing their exposure to sunlight.
Q: When should the cuttings be transplanted into larger pots?
A: After one growing season, when the roots are fully developed, transplant the cuttings into larger pots without disturbing the root ball. Continue using a mix of pumice and akadama for optimal root development.
Q: How can chlorosis or nutrient deficiencies be managed?
A: Monitor the cuttings for signs of chlorosis (yellowing leaves) or nutrient deficiencies. Use diluted iron sulfate or magnesium sulfate sprays if necessary to correct these issues.
RobertB
Chumono
i haven't been on my thread in quite a bit. thinking of trying again this year as i have a very large mother tree im cutting out of the yard this spring and starting the bonsai process on. Thank to all that have added to this!
Pugs
Seedling
Well, reading this whole thread I've concluded I don't understand most of it. So I shall read and re-read. Maybe something will klick. Who knows, but my mind is a weird place.
But I was inspired to buy a Prunus mume "Peggy Clarke" and a seedling of it, plants from two different nurseries, for my yard. I've also ordered the book Bonsai Maples - by Andrea Meriggioli from the UK. And I should say "ouch" at the price. A 60 pound shipping fee added to the pain.
But I was inspired to buy a Prunus mume "Peggy Clarke" and a seedling of it, plants from two different nurseries, for my yard. I've also ordered the book Bonsai Maples - by Andrea Meriggioli from the UK. And I should say "ouch" at the price. A 60 pound shipping fee added to the pain.
If you ask some questions maybe we can help clarify.
penumbra
Imperial Masterpiece
Maybe using either pumice, de, or perlite would discourage wood lice.
I don't have but a few Mume and they are small, but I will try it.
Canada Bonsai
Chumono
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You’re right to feel this way. Any thread (and there are several…) on the topic of Prunus mume hardwood cuttings should be prefaced with the warning that the approach is experimental and has an incredibly low and unpredictable success rate, even for those people writing post after post about their methods…
…and so the information is speculative, constantly changing, and often contradictory, being backed neither by science nor by experience, and is always undermined by results!
I suggest the addition of a preface-warning to these threads because when you google prunus mume propagation, these threads always come up (and it’s unfair to expect beginners to ‘know better’). The result is that i constantly receive emails from people asking me why their Prunus mume cuttings failed despite the fact they they did everything so and so said on BonsaiNut.
As somebody working with roughly 70 Prunus mume cultivars, i can tell you a few hard facts based on my real experience and i have the trays upon trays of material to back it up:
- In my experience, any cultivar that will root from winter hardwood cuttings and survive long term will also root from cuttings taken in June, and will do so with an invariably better success rate. (My timing reference: 4-6 weeks after japanese maple cuttings, i take prunus mume cuttings).
- Most ornamental cultivars will not root at all, or will root but not survive very long (this is not shocking, the same is true for many species such as Acer palmatum).
- It is perfectly acceptable—in fact, it’s required—to graft Prunus mume when creating high level bonsai.
I have gone into detail in a few places online about how i propagate prunus mume from cuttings — they are not my methods, it’s simply what is being done in Asia. I’m not claiming that it is the best way possible either, but at this time i have yet to find a better method and i am constantly experimenting with large batches of diverse strains.
bwaynef
Masterpiece
I've only ever attempted rooting P.m. from hardwood cuttings in late winter, I've never gotten lower than ~75% and maybe more. Take a look at my last photo. I don't think I had any fail beyond when I took that photo except the tall one in the back left of the frame. This was my 3rd year or so. (I ended up losing the parent tree this year (along with several others that stung) so I'm going to have to take a year to grow out a few for parent stock.)
I can't imagine getting noticeably better percentage in June. The benefit to hardwood propagation is it happens at a slow time of the year.
I can't imagine getting noticeably better percentage in June. The benefit to hardwood propagation is it happens at a slow time of the year.
