Peter Adams Seminar at the GSBF convention

[wvbonsai]

In reference to Mr. Adams' comments on using more organic soil; I see this as one of his great moments where illustrates again "If it ain't broke don't fix it!" A loose and pourous organic mix will yield fat lovely and happy roots. If you have ever received a tree from Brent at Evergreen you notice how much organic (fir bark) he uses. I think the craze for inorganics has a lot to do with the more forgiving nature of such mixes. In a pure or mostly organic mix you must monitor the moisture levels closely but if the mix is inorganic you can and almost have to water it like crazy. Since you can just drench inorganic mixes on rote I feel like Peter Adams sees the change as sacrificing technique for technology

 

[bonhe]

Hi Smoke, thanks a lot for an excellent article. Question: I'm using granule humic acid as a trial for 6 months already, and I didn't see any difference yet. Do I have to wait a little longer to see its effect? I'm also using lot of fertilizer with it. Thanks. Bonhe

 

[Attila Soos]

Okay, Tom and Attila, you helmet head haters, what would Peter Adams do with this 28" JBP..........

keep it green,
Harry

He would probably lower the second branch on the right, because right now it is almost at the same level as the branch on the left side. Also, the angle of the pads should vary a bit, right now they are all horizontal, which is not very interesting. He would also fill out the top a little bit, to create a fuller, slightly rounded apex. And lastly, he would fill out and raise the center of the foliage pads, so that they become more natural looking (thicker in the middle of the pad, like a spreading dome). Right now the pads are too flat and uniform looking (somewhat like thin frying pans), which takes away from the naturalness. Regarding the needles, all needles that point downward, should be immediately removed. The branches representing the bottom of the foliage pads should be always clearly visible, never obstructed by any needle.

If you are a subscriber of Bonsai Focus, just find a few pine bonsai that Peter has drawn. Look at the apex, and look at the shape and angle of foliage pads. You will see right away what I mean.

These changes are very easy and could be done in a couple of seasons, resulting in a great tree. Most of the work on this tree is already done, but the finishing touches are what create the true beauty and interest. That's what your tree is lacking. It is nowhere near its true potential.

 

[mcpesq817]

I think you're right.

I really think that Peter has a great sense of design. You look at a small-ish japapanese black pine, for example, created in the spirit of Kokufu-ten in mind. It is very pleasing and dignified, but it basically has a helmet on.
Then look at how Peter would design the same tree, based on his drawing: the foliage pads vary in size and shape, and there is a little more negative space. As he said, it only requires a little work to change a helmet into an interesting tree, the changes are mostly subtle, but the tree becomes much more interesting. It's really easy, anybody with a little training and imagination can do it.

I've liked the drawings in his column for Bonsai Focus. But as for his stylings of deciduous trees generally, from the pictures in one of his maples books that I own, his trees tend to be styled like pine trees. Part of that might have to do with the fact that many of the trees seemed to be imports. Not that there is anything wrong with maples being styled like pine trees, particularly if done to look more natural, and his trees were very nice, but I was a bit surprised at the stylings of his maples in his books.

 

[cquinn]

He would probably lower the second branch on the right, because right now it is almost at the same level as the branch on the left side. Also, the angle of the pads should vary a bit, right now they are all horizontal, which is not very interesting. He would also fill out the top a little bit, to create a fuller, slightly rounded apex. And lastly, he would fill out and raise the center of the foliage pads, so that they become more natural looking (thicker in the middle of the pad, like a spreading dome). Right now the pads are too flat and uniform looking (somewhat like thin frying pans), which takes away from the naturalness. Regarding the needles, all needles that point downward, should be immediately removed. The branches representing the bottom of the foliage pads should be always clearly visible, never obstructed by any needle.

If you are a subscriber of Bonsai Focus, just find a few pine bonsai that Peter has drawn. Look at the apex, and look at the shape and angle of foliage pads. You will see right away what I mean.

These changes are very easy and could be done in a couple of seasons, resulting in a great tree. Most of the work on this tree is already done, but the finishing touches are what create the true beauty and interest. That's what your tree is lacking. It is nowhere near its true potential.

Like a maple? Pine trees don't grow with the middle of the pads raised where I live. Needles point up, but branches spread out on old pines. I've never seen one that grows up from the middle of the pad. They generally just spread. It's best to look at Kokufu books and not books from Westerners. I'll say it again, after hundreds of years the Japanese have it right. When I go and apprentice at Warren Hill's place we look at Kokufu books for discussion or anything Saburo Kato, or John Naka wrote. Mostly Kokufu. The trees in those books don't all have green helmets either. The maples tend to look like what we're mostly accostumed to deciduous trees looking like.

 

[PaulH]

Over many years I have studied with a lot of very different teachers. Each has something to broaden my understanding of bonsai.

I have the pleasure of participating in a small, grass - roots study group with Peter. His approach to bonsai is unique an enlightening.
A couple of very simple but important "AHA!" concepts I've gleaned from him are:

A bonsai should look like a tree, and be styled in that tree species true habit.

Peter forbids the use of the "F-word" (front) in reference to bonsai. To paraphrase him he explains that the front of a real tree is the side you are looking at.

Horticulturally, Peter is very knowledgeble and fully capable of explaining the science behind his opinions.

Finally, he is first an artist, and has helped me see beauty in my trees I overlooked

 

[cquinn]

Over many years I have studied with a lot of very different teachers. Each has something to broaden my understanding of bonsai.

I have the pleasure of participating in a small, grass - roots study group with Peter. His approach to bonsai is unique an enlightening.
A couple of very simple but important "AHA!" concepts I've gleaned from him are:

A bonsai should look like a tree, and be styled in that tree species true habit.

Peter forbids the use of the "F-word" (front) in reference to bonsai. To paraphrase him he explains that the front of a real tree is the side you are looking at.

Horticulturally, Peter is very knowledgeble and fully capable of explaining the science behind his opinions.

Finally, he is first an artist, and has helped me see beauty in my trees I overlooked

So he just took pictures for his book from any angle, side of pot , back of pot, etc. Sure looks like he picks a front to me. He would have to if he was making anything other than a perfectly symetrical tree. I mean a slant would warrant a front, or else it would be slanting away from you or toward you. that wouldn't look right. There definitely is one best image. Sometimes a tree can look good from the front or back, but one has to be chosen as a front at repotting time in order to be planted in a pleasing position in the pot. ie back left, back right. How did he choose the best angle to take photographs? Probably by picking a best front.

 

[PaulH]

So he just took pictures for his book from any angle, side of pot , back of pot, etc. Sure looks like he picks a front to me. He would have to if he was making anything other than a perfectly symetrical tree. I mean a slant would warrant a front, or else it would be slanting away from you or toward you. that wouldn't look right. There definitely is one best image. Sometimes a tree can look good from the front or back, but one has to be chosen as a front at repotting time in order to be planted in a pleasing position in the pot. ie back left, back right. How did he choose the best angle to take photographs? Probably by picking a best front.

Of course you are correct, but I think you completely missed my point.

It is very valuable to listen to (and try to understand) as much information as possible when pursuing an art and pick and choose from that information to adapt and develop that art in your own unique way.
The "front" concept often leads to creation of very one dimensional trees. Which in my opinion are artificial and uninspiring. This is not to say that every tree has a side from which it looks best nor that potting position is not extremely important in bonsai. My point is that Peter's comment increased my ability to appreciate the tree as a whole, not just a photograph in a book.

 

[greerhw]

Regarding the needles, all needles that point downward, should be immediately removed. The branches representing the bottom of the foliage pads should be always clearly visible, never obstructed by any needle.



This I agree with, thanks for the comments.

keep it green,
Harry

 

[cquinn]

Of course you are correct, but I think you completely missed my point.

It is very valuable to listen to (and try to understand) as much information as possible when pursuing an art and pick and choose from that information to adapt and develop that art in your own unique way.
The "front" concept often leads to creation of very one dimensional trees. Which in my opinion are artificial and uninspiring. This is not to say that every tree has a side from which it looks best nor that potting position is not extremely important in bonsai. My point is that Peter's comment increased my ability to appreciate the tree as a whole, not just a photograph in a book.

Okay, I get it. Take a look at pictures from Japanese nursery's where a single tree isn't the soul focus, and you'll see that they are very 3 demensional. In Naka's first book while going over Chokan, he presents a top view of the branch arrangement, again 3 demensional. I guess what I'm getting at, is that the western teachers aren't giving us anything new. They are simply giving their interpretations of something that's already been interpreted in the same way. I mean give the Japanese credit. They aren't stupid, and have eyes, and they know what a tree looks like. Westerners are always wanting to make things their own even when they are doing the exact same things. I think a part of it is ego.

 

[Attila Soos]

Like a maple? Pine trees don't grow with the middle of the pads raised where I live.

No, not like a maple. Like this pine here. Note the upper pads, where the middle of the pad is slightly raised. The lower pads are more flat. So, my point is that the pads should not look like they were made out of the same pancake mold. A little variety adds interest. In nature, branches are not uniform, like cars that come off the belt. You can see how natural this tree on the picture looks, although it was created by artificial means.

Also note how the apex looks.

Harry, I hope this is a good guideline for pad design. The best part for you is that this is a top Japanese tree, owned by a top Japanese collector and artist (Seiji Morimae).

By the way, Peter is a big advocate that deciduous trees should be designed true to their growing habits, and the same with conifers. Designing deciduous trees like pines is a no-no for him.

(This is a Japanese tree from the defunct old Takagi bonsai museum. But if I am breaking copyright issues here, the picture can be removed)

 

[Attila Soos]

I mean give the Japanese credit. They aren't stupid, and have eyes, and they know what a tree looks like. Westerners are always wanting to make things their own even when they are doing the exact same things. I think a part of it is ego.

I think we can all agree on this. You are absolutely right, Japanese are not stupid (and yes, they have eyes as well). Thank you for pointing this out.

We need to take a step back here, and realize that art is universal. Bot the East and West have access to it. Nature is universal as well. There is no Japanese nature and Western nature. Bonsai can express all the different views of nature.

But, I am hijacking my own thread. If I remember, I started with the soil....

 

[Attila Soos]

What is loam?

Loam is composted organic matter i.e.; garden loam. Farmers will plant silage crops in between cash crops to plow into the soil to help renew it by composting in the organic matter.

Thanks for the great article, Al. It has many useful observations.

One small correction about the loam: loam is not composted organic matter, but rather a mix of clay, silt, and sand. But, as you pointed out, it can contain lots of organic matter, such as humus.
I agree that loam retains nutriens very well, and this property can be useful in bonsai. A lot of inorganic medium used today does not retain nutrients, and this can cause trees to respond poorly to bonsai techniques, unless they are continuously fertilized. Using a nutrient-retaining medium creates an environment where instead of a constant Hi-Low in nutrient concentration, there is a continuous supply and slow release of nutrients.

As you pointed out, composted organic material needs to reach a point where there is no further break-down, and it becomes stable. This is called humus. Humic acid is a stable component of humus, it persists thousands of years in the soil. Peat contains humic acid as well, so very coarse peat can be a great additive to bonsai soil.

Your article made me think about the importance of humus and humic acid in increasing the plant's ability to absorb nutrients and micronutrients, such as iron-uptake. I intend to use more of it in the future.

 

[rockm]

"There is no Japanese nature and Western nature."

I think there is...The geographic specifics of Japan have driven its view of nature. It's little slice of heaven is a very narrow geographically unique archipelago of islands that has developed distinct species of plants.

http://www.biodiversityhotspots.org/xp/hotspots/japan/Pages/biodiversity.aspx

That environment is extremely specific. It has had a tight grip on bonsai for a long time. Japan and the West do have access to nature, but Japan's is vastly more limited and is getting smaller everyday. I think that may be the reason Japanese trees sometimes lack spontaneity.

I think over the last few decades, Westerners have begun to get away from the somewhat limited Japanese view of nature (and I'm talking physical nature. There are also pretty diverse spiritual differences in Japanese and Western nature) to interpret their landscapes--which are extremely diverse and incorporate a lot more species that have their own "look" in those landscapes.

 

[Attila Soos]

"There is no Japanese nature and Western nature."

I think there is...The geographic specifics of Japan have driven its view of nature. .

You know very well what I mean, so don't be such a stickler: nature is specific to geography, not cultural philosophy. Therefore, we are not tied to a narrow geographical niche (such as Japan), but rather can express our own natural world. That's what I mean by the universality of nature.

 

[greerhw]

By the way, Peter is a big advocate that deciduous trees should be designed true to their growing habits, AND THE SAME WITH CONIFERS. Designing deciduous trees like pines is a no-no for him.

I was following along with his interpertions until we hit a snag, I never saw a conifer growing in a bonsai pot that was not styled that resembled a bonsai tree. I don't think Peter and I would last very long in the same room. I'll stick with the stallion and my sterotypical Japanese styled trees. Like old Tom said, I'm a stubborn old SOB...........

keep it green,
Harry

 

[Attila Soos]

Hey, you've got to do what you've got to do.
If Japanese trees give you a warm and fuzzy feeling, go for it! I like them too, but I want some variety as well. Just like with my music. I switch channels once in a while.

 

[greerhw]

Hey, you've got to do what you've got to do.
If Japanese trees give you a warm and fuzzy feeling, go for it! I like them too, but I want some variety as well. Just like with my music. I switch channels once in a while.

When I first started in koi, I thought I needed one of every variety, newbie stupidy. When I started In bonsai I thought I need a large variety, I soon found out that wasn't going to work out ( I paid my dues, need any pots) then after a couple of years, I found my niche, conifers, D trees don't do it here. To me the best conifers were Japanese styled, that leads us to today and why "I keep it green"..............

keep it green,
Harry

 

[Smoke]

.....conifers, D trees don't do it here. To me the best conifers were Japanese styled, that leads us to today and why "I keep it green"..............

keep it green,
Harry

Once again a factual statement. You gotta watch those Harry

You mean "you" can't keep D trees there. Are you telling me that no D trees grow in Oklahoma? If they grow in the ground they will grow and thrive in a pot. You just ain't found the secret yet.

 

[greerhw]

Once again a factual statement. You gotta watch those Harry

You mean "you" can't keep D trees there. Are you telling me that no D trees grow in Oklahoma? If they grow in the ground they will grow and thrive in a pot. You just ain't found the secret yet.

Not too many you would want for bonsai and the secret can stay hidden until someone comes along that wants to spend time to develope them and end up with inferior crap. The birds just fall out of the sky, no place to land...................


keep it green,
Harry