Keep it or Cut it?

As I read the commentary I get the feeling that you and I are the same in many respects. Work and work on getting a beautiful nebari when $8 or 900.00 would do the job much better in the first place. But then again when it is all done, you and I can take all the credit for the many years of work required to put some shoes on a tree.
 
Not trying to ignite this thread into another soil firestorm, but I have taken note that both you and @MACH5 have made reference to using 100% Akadama when repotting maples. Thank you for sharing your experience with us.
 
Great tree Brian. Japanese maples grow ok here in Houston - beautiful in spring. I keep them in the sun till temps get into the 90s then into the shade. They grow well through the summer. But by the time fall comes in December - it's like the tree is just done. If we get an early cold snap, we'll get some colors, but other than that it's brown and crispy for the fall. Any suggestions on what I might do to get better fall colors?
 
markyscott said:
Any suggestions on what I might do to get better fall colors?
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Move them back into full sun. Most green varieties will respond with making anthocyanins to shield the chlorophyll which will make for oranges to intense reds. Keeping them a bit dry and chilling the roots (good luck with that in Houston) also helps to develop fall color.
 
0soyoung said:
Move them back into full sun. Most green varieties will respond with making anthocyanins to shield the chlorophyll which will make for oranges to intense reds. Keeping them a bit dry and chilling the roots (good luck with that in Houston) also helps to develop fall color.
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Naught, you are correct but there is that "fine" line where the leaves "burn up" before autumn colors appear in the HOT south. Houston can be a tough place for JM. I cringe at the thought of JM there. ;-)
 
garywood said:
Naught, you are correct but there is that "fine" line where the leaves "burn up" before autumn colors appear in the HOT south. Houston can be a tough place for JM. I cringe at the thought of JM there. ;-)
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They grow fine and fall colors are beautiful if you like brown and crinkly. I think I just need to learn to appreciate that more.
 
0soyoung said:
Move them back into full sun. Most green varieties will respond with making anthocyanins to shield the chlorophyll which will make for oranges to intense reds. Keeping them a bit dry and chilling the roots (good luck with that in Houston) also helps to develop fall color.
Click to expand...

It's the chilling of the roots that are the problem I think. We get temperatures up in the 80s in January fairly regularly.
 
garywood said:
Naught, you are correct but there is that "fine" line where the leaves "burn up" before autumn colors appear in the HOT south. Houston can be a tough place for JM. I cringe at the thought of JM there. ;-)
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Yep, but its very humid. It only takes a few days, though; until the tinge of red is evident. Then the die is cast.
 
So far, this guy has managed full sun from sunrise to about 3:30 every day. More sun than it had at the last house, and its handling it well so far. A thread graft is planned for spring, and then it should be approaching show-shape again.
image.jpeg
Hard to tell from photos, but the base is really starting to spread, and a perfectly-placed root has appeared from the trunk on the right side, so I packed some moss over it to encourage it to grow stronger.
image.jpeg
 
MACH5 said:
Very nice Brian! How are you liking the akadama?
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I am liking it. It's been an akadama mix for 10+ years, but never quite 100% akadama. Based on everything I'm seeing, I suspect the roots will look great as a result when it's repotted next spring, and I'll likely go right back into all akadama.
 
I like the backdrop lighting on the right side of the tree more so than on the left. Seems like there's more light focused on it and makes it look more brown than black.
 
MACH5 said:
Ok glad you like it and is working well for you. As you probably know, I have been using straight akadama (on occasion with a bit of kiryu sand) on all my maples and they really do so well in it.
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Hi Sergio,

I'm sure you've said this elsewhere but which specific type of akadama do you use straight? Exclusively the hard variety? Or do you find it even makes a difference?
 
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