JBP

[Jim G]

I'm not sure if the information I'm trying to convey and trying to gather can be done on the web but at this time I thought I would give it a try. I know I need to join a club and get more involved face to face and hopefully will do that soon. At this point I'm reading and viewing what others are doing. My collection currently consists of 9 trees.
I purchased this tree in the summer of 16, slip potted and have just been taking care of it letting it grow as I try to learn what to do with it.
I read the term "leggy" and thinking this tree may fall into that category?? Should I cut back branches and work on trunk growth. I have no issues with a major chop if necessary. The tree is currently wintering in my shed in a wooden box bedded in pine mulch.
Thanks.

 

[dirk hoorelbeke]

It depends on what you want. I would start with keeping the lowest branches as the tree to be. Select a branch there that will be the next trunk section. Keep the others and wire them, if they grow to fast in summer decandle but most likely they will get slower and slower until you remove the sacrifice. When he trunk almost reaches the disired size count of the sacrifice and let the new top take over. Make sure the branches directly above your final tree don't shade it. Cut them. Look in the future if you can solve the thick root.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

Nice tree
Like Dirk said, not leggy, actually a good start toward a small to medium size JBP - the tall stuff is ''sacrifice branches'' needed to bulk up the trunk, the actual tree is in the first whorl of branches. The tree won't be ready to style until the trunk is almost the diameter of a beer can just above the roots.

Most bonsai spend their first decade of growing 5 to 10 times taller than their ultimate exhibition size. My future 8 inch tall amur maple is currently 5 feet tall. The trunk is still not thick enough so it stays in the 5 gallon nursery can.

Yes, a good plan, join a local club. I think the 4 seasons bonsai club is near you, maybe, do the google search, or ask Mike Frary or Vance about the when and wheres.

 

[River's Edge]

I concur in the focus to join, share and learn with others.
For this tree i would plan to repot in a grow box this coming spring. It looks healthy now, but the future work requires a very vigorous tree. That is far easier to accomplish in a larger container. I would suggest something approximately 11 by 14 and at least 4 inches deep. Get advice on how to lessen the trees reliance on the larger higher up root and move towards removing it while safeguarding the health of the tree and moving it forward. An experienced pine grower can help you stage a plan for trunk growth and branch development in stages. Specifically learn how to reduce the number of branches at each whorl to prevent knuckles. I prefer to develop each section at a time with three bracnhes. One for the branch placement, one for future trunk and the other for sacrifice leader.
Also if you are looking to do a medium size tree then you should consider wiring it for more movement soon.
The tree has good potential at this stage.

 

[augustine]

Do you understand the concept of "sacrifice and final" branches?

 

[Jim G]

Well..no, not enough to say a little, I just started this hobby and obviously have a lot to learn. I've read about sacrifice branches but need help with every step on this trees development so I do not destroy it.
I do appreciate the feedback here which helps me to better understand and research what i need to do.
I will take the advise and repot this spring to a larger pot. As far as what I want, at this point I'm thinking informal upright. Small to medium.

 

[twisted trees]

What size tree do you see in there? As big as it is? Half size or shohin?

 

[sparklemotion]

I have no specific answers for you yet, but good on you for starting to ask questions now, while you've got a couple or three months before you do anything to the tree.

Because you're not going to touch it before late winter/early spring, right?

 

[augustine]

Brian Van Fleet has well written info on his blog which has a search feature, google nebaribonsai blog. You can find info here also.

 

[Jim G]

I have no specific answers for you yet, but good on you for starting to ask questions now, while you've got a couple or three months before you do anything to the tree.

Because you're not going to touch it before late winter/early spring, right?

Right, It's put away for the winter..

 

[Jim G]

What size tree do you see in there? As big as it is? Half size or shohin?

Around the height it is would be nice.

 

[twisted trees]

Around the height it is would be nice.

I suggest you take that tree to someone who knows pines and can help guide you through its development. The tree has potential but really needs a knowledgeable onsite analysis.

 

[Guy Vitale]

I suggest you take that tree to someone who knows pines and can help guide you through its development. The tree has potential but really needs a knowledgeable onsite analysis.

@Jim G , feel free to bring it into FSBC meeting in January, I'd be glad to give some guidance. I'm reluctant to suggest too much without seeing the tree.

 

[twisted trees]

I suggest you take that tree to someone who knows pines and can help guide you through its development. The tree has potential but really needs a knowledgeable onsite analysis.

A little more explanation. There are steps to be taken first. For example, do you prefer Classical bonsai styles or natural styling?

Next, you need to pick a style within the style, ie, upright, slanting, cascade, etc.

From there, pick a front based on the surface roots, the base, trunk movement and taper and then branch placement.

These are steps that are followed.

It looks like choosing branches is where it would be good to find someone who can show you firsthand which branches to keep based on experience you don't have yet.

In order to get a tree the size you are talking about, believe it or not about half the tree needs to be removed. With pines this needs to be done properly and in stages.

Expect 10 years in making a good bonsai out of your pine tree in a pot.

Good growing.

 

[twisted trees]

Oh and more beginners advice, stop saying chop. It's a prune or a drastic prune. Sheesh, people are gunna think you get info from bnuttets.

 

[Vance Wood]

You can always go on FB and argue that your tree is a bonsai because it is a tree in a pot-----there ya go. No need to style, it's in a pot, no need to prune, it's in a pot, no need to repot, it's in a pot and as such it would violate the laws of physics where in it is stated that no two solid objects can occupy the same place and time----or something like that. So---- if it is a bonsai it is a tree in a pot and how could it be repotted if it was in a pot to begin with? Wouldn't that be redundant?

 

[Guy Vitale]

Vance, that post was so not worth your quality time. I can appreciate wanting to help people with their bonsai, but they have to be at least 1% engaged and that guy just was just looking to troll. Your time and advice is always appreciated, don't waste it on A-holes like that.

 

[Guy Vitale]

Oh and more beginners advice, stop saying chop. It's a prune or a drastic prune. Sheesh, people are gunna think you get info from bnuttets.

a 'chop' is a perfectly valid term, as in trunk chop or removing a massive amount of foliage in one step. Nothing explains a drastic process like that better.

 

[twisted trees]

a 'chop' is a perfectly valid term, as in trunk chop or removing a massive amount of foliage in one step. Nothing explains a drastic process like that better.

It's simpler to type.

 

[Vance Wood]

Vance, that post was so not worth your quality time. I can appreciate wanting to help people with their bonsai, but they have to be at least 1% engaged and that guy just was just looking to troll. Your time and advice is always appreciated, don't waste it on A-holes like that.

Thank You for your impression of me.