Japanese Maple Grow Boxes

Messages
458
Reaction score
253
Location
Belleville, Ontario, Canada
USDA Zone
6
Have you checked out the threads started by @clem ?

He is using wide shallow boxes. His pace and results are excellent. Links below

In terms of materials, I have not found anything better than wood. It is as durable as we need it to be, and allows us to easily fasten nails or staples. I have used tile, plastic, etc. and did not like the fact that I could not use stables. On very young material I use plastic discs (I usually cut out the bottoms of cracked pots), but once there is a need to specify exactly where certain roots should be, wood becomes very practical.

I have also used wood circles in taller pots as opposed to shallow boxes (see 2nd image). I do this knowing that all of my roots are going to hook 90-degrees downward into the substrate. That doesn't bother me because that's the point where I am going to prune all of the roots back to when I repot anyways. I have seen good rapid root-growth with this strategy - as much as shallow boxes, I would say. Its also nice that they take up less space on the bench - I would recommend trying both shallow boxes and taller (as in regular size) pots




Wish I read these before I made all these 12"x12"x 3.5" boxes. I did make some 12"x16"s too, but nothing as wide as Clem's.boxes.jpg
 

River's Edge

Masterpiece
Messages
4,755
Reaction score
12,780
Location
Vancouver Island, British Columbia
USDA Zone
8b
One issue with the Anderson flats is that they are not rigid enough to avoid gentle deformations when you move them around. Probably not great for the roots...
Simple solution for this is to nest one inside another. Added bonus is improved ventilation and drainage for the rootball. Tip: drill some 1/4 holes along the bottom side edges of the Botton flat for additional air/ drainage. This is not a maple;). But displays the concept. If you look closely you can see the small holes in the side of the lowest flat near the bottom edge. That combined with the air space between the nested flats improves aeration and drainage for the root ball. Nesting the two improves the rigidity of the sides ensuring a more stable root system.
 

clem

Chumono
Messages
780
Reaction score
1,876
Location
Normandy, France
Wish I read these before I made all these 12"x12"x 3.5" boxes. I did make some 12"x16"s too, but nothing as wide as Clem's.View attachment 514341
hello, i don"t use plastic mesh anymore because the roots grow inside and it is a real pain to remove the rootball during repotting. Look at the result with plastic mesh ->
acer palmatum beni chidori 2021 02 24 (11).JPG






So now, i just use 100% wood + nails or srews. Drainage is done by the spacing between the wooden boards (2 milimeter is enough to get a very good drainage and also to prevent akadama particles from falling down). ->
caisse-IMG_2467.JPG



It's up to you, but i also advise you to build rectangular wood boxes because we often want to have bigger roots on the side of the nebari than on the front or back.. and the final Bonsai pot is often oval with JM. If you want to create a literati JM you can developp it in a square box as the final Bonsai pot will be round in shape.
My2cents ;)
 

xwintersgloomx

Seedling
Messages
20
Reaction score
19
Location
Ontario Canada
USDA Zone
6a
Thanks for digging up these links!
Interesting nuances within growing out some maples within or around the Ebahari technique, and some great links as well. Mind if I ask where you were able to purchase the Anrea Meriggioli book from? Sounds like a great resource.
 

Maiden69

Masterpiece
Messages
2,347
Reaction score
3,633
Location
Boerne, TX
USDA Zone
8b
Wish I read these before I made all these 12"x12"x 3.5" boxes. I did make some 12"x16"s too, but nothing as wide as Clem's.View attachment 514341

Do you own a table saw? If you do you could set the fence to shave a few inches and run it through. Same with a circular saw and a guide after removing the top screws just in case...

Definitely Clem is the only one I have seen here using that box with outstanding results.
 

dbonsaiw

Masterpiece
Messages
2,015
Reaction score
2,515
Location
New York
USDA Zone
7b
My go to grow boxes using 2X4s is 14X14X3.5: 2 14" pieces; and 5 17" pieces. I build the frame with 2 14" and 2 17" and use the remaining 17" for the bottom. Then I drill half inch+ holes and cover with small plastic mesh squares. It's also easier to remove the mesh squares than a mesh sheet.

I have one trident growing in a 30"30"X3.5". I find the edges stay too wet and the soil gets that green film.

Not sure about screwing the tree directly into the box - I'd rather have at least some space beneath for roots to grow. Kind of the reason I'm using the grow box in the first place.
 

toolpro

Seedling
Messages
16
Reaction score
0
Location
Atlanta, GA
USDA Zone
7a
For best drainage, build the four sides of the box with the board and cover the bottom with hardware cloth. Then a few 1x1" or 1x2" stringers across to support the cloth and hold the box off the bench.
Rick
 

Kevin1968

Yamadori
Messages
90
Reaction score
100
Location
Jacksonville, Florida
USDA Zone
9a
Interesting nuances within growing out some maples within or around the Ebahari technique, and some great links as well. Mind if I ask where you were able to purchase the Anrea Meriggioli book from? Sounds like a great resource.
Contact him on his Facebook account he will send it to you autographed. https://www.facebook.com/andrea.meriggioli.3
 
Messages
458
Reaction score
253
Location
Belleville, Ontario, Canada
USDA Zone
6
hello, i don"t use plastic mesh anymore because the roots grow inside and it is a real pain to remove the rootball during repotting. Look at the result with plastic mesh ->
View attachment 514396
;)
Ya, I had the same experience when using pet screen.
I'm now using 1/4" galvanized hardware cloth, stapled to the bottoms of the box, with a loose sheet of window screen between the hardware cloth and the substrate.
 

clem

Chumono
Messages
780
Reaction score
1,876
Location
Normandy, France
Definitely Clem is the only one I have seen here using that box with outstanding results.
IMO good results come mainly from culture : to find a good place where your trees can grow quickly. No wind for JM as much as possible. My JM grow very well in my green house but i live in mild humid and temperate climate. If i lived in a warmer and sunnier climate, maybe the green house would give too much heat and maybe JM would prefer to live outside with partial shade and no wind.
 

BobbyLane

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
6,062
Reaction score
17,711
Location
London, England
The greenhouse definitely contributes. You see this growth rate in Peter chans greenhouse trees too.
 
Messages
458
Reaction score
253
Location
Belleville, Ontario, Canada
USDA Zone
6
IMO good results come mainly from culture : to find a good place where your trees can grow quickly. No wind for JM as much as possible. My JM grow very well in my green house but i live in mild humid and temperate climate. If i lived in a warmer and sunnier climate, maybe the green house would give too much heat and maybe JM would prefer to live outside with partial shade and no wind.
What is the average temp and humidity in your greenhouse in the middle of summer?
 

clem

Chumono
Messages
780
Reaction score
1,876
Location
Normandy, France
What is the average temp and humidity in your greenhouse in the middle of summer?
i don't know the humidity level but the T° are often 35 - 40°C (95 - 104 °F) during the day, and 20°C during the night inside the greenhouse.

During heatwaves, T° can grow up to 40°C outside of the greenhouse and more than 45°C inside (more than 113 °F). I have more and more sunburn and slowdown in growth because of heatwaves so i think i will install a shade net to protect my JM next summer.

ps : the green house is opened and there is air circulation inside : the leaves move because of the air ciculation but there is no hard wind that block the growth.
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom