Itoigawa shohin

[Pharvey3232]

You’re welcome. When sorce said dry is die he meant bone dry.
No dry is death too.

With good draining inorganic soil a rainy week will not damage the tree.

My 20-$25 Shimpaku from NEB 2008

Time for a dedicated thread for the 1st Shimpaku I owned. Oct. 8th 2008 I carried this one around with me in fear it would get snatched up if I set it down. Pretty good sized area NEB is. Tag read-shimpaku 20 or $25 and the fella at the register questioned the cost, and I said I had not...

www.bonsainut.com

I got this shimpaku at New England Bonsai in 2008.
Brian Van Fleet left a link for Summer work on shimpaku there from his web site Nebari Bonsai.

Ok, I've went a head and got my tree into full sun now. This was the 3rd day in a row of 4 hours of more full sun I let it dry out to the point it barely mist before giving it a good watering in the evening. Now it's in a good wet dry cycle ! I also give it a spray every evening with better gardens fungicide as directed just Incase it had a fungus. I also fed yesterday with super thrive. Tsp stressed trees. I have been blocking the upwards just to make sure it's draining good after watering. Right now I'm full sun it appears to need a watering once a day, way less than it was getting a few weeks ago. Hahaha. My question for you would be. It's only really been 2 days since it's been in a good schedule. Is it normal for the yellowing tips etc to appear to continue advancing? My wife thinks it is because of the fertilizer is still in the rioting system and it will take a week or so to dissipate ? It seems as if the yellowing if the tips is not isolated to a few pads now but the whole tree. It doesn't look bad jus a tad yellow. I've attached pics

 

[Japonicus]

I have been blocking the upwards just to make sure it's draining good

I suppose you're saying that you are tilting the pot?
4 hours full Sun, is a good increase over 2. Hopefully 6 or more is available in the future.

Honestly I can't answer your question in entirety, but it does happen that a juniper can die
and look green for some time. That it not the case here I'm sure, just unhappy roots and adjusting to a 3rd environment
in a short period which is yet changing to increase Sunlight and watering schedule.
So yes, the tree will not stop throwing yellowing needles suddenly upon corrective action, and I still think next year
you're going to have to do some thinning in Summer, after it takes off with growth splurge mid Spring.

If there was any root rot, and I hate to even mention that because repotting should happen if that ever were the case
and I am not overly experienced with treatments for it because I water correctly best I can for my schedule.
Root rot would have a smell, should sport some little gnats, and black roots somewhere. I would like to defer your
question to @Brian Van Fleet and get his input on this. He is much more experienced with shimpaku than I am.

BTW evening time is not the best time to water. You're treating with a fungicide, and evening waterings is favorable for disease
when carried out as the normal schedule. Sure nature rains at night, but not as a routine really. It happens, and we allow dry time
soon as possible. It will take time for you juniper to respond favorably to a change for the good. Consider it lag time, catch up.
However you don't have much of a growing season left this year.

 

[Pharvey3232]

I suppose you're saying that you are tilting the pot?
4 hours full Sun, is a good increase over 2. Hopefully 6 or more is available in the future.

Honestly I can't answer your question in entirety, but it does happen that a juniper can die
and look green for some time. That it not the case here I'm sure, just unhappy roots and adjusting to a 3rd environment
in a short period which is yet changing to increase Sunlight and watering schedule.
So yes, the tree will not stop throwing yellowing needles suddenly upon corrective action, and I still think next year
you're going to have to do some thinning in Summer, after it takes off with growth splurge mid Spring.

If there was any root rot, and I hate to even mention that because repotting should happen if that ever were the case
and I am not overly experienced with treatments for it because I water correctly best I can for my schedule.
Root rot would have a smell, should sport some little gnats, and black roots somewhere. I would like to defer your
question to @Brian Van Fleet and get his input on this. He is much more experienced with shimpaku than I am.

BTW evening time is not the best time to water. You're treating with a fungicide, and evening waterings is favorable for disease
when carried out as the normal schedule. Sure nature rains at night, but not as a routine really. It happens, and we allow dry time
soon as possible. It will take time for you juniper to respond favorably to a change for the good. Consider it lag time, catch up.
However you don't have much of a growing season left this year.

Yep. Ok. Will change watering time as well as fungicide treatment time. Didn't think about evenings but it totally makes sense that it would t be the best time to water and treat for fungus ! Thank you
I'm very patient and I know this little tree will turn around and is on the right path now. Good news is our growing season is a bit longer in in south Texas as we do not see fall winter weather until normally dec- jan. Usually still in the 89s-90s around nov-dec

 

[LanceMac10]

Nothing wrong here, why so vexed? Bio-gold? Organic pellets? These need to be broken down by microbes in the soil, so it's usually a couple weeks before the plant can access.
Junipers are fairly sturdy and can deal with too-dry/too-wet pretty well.
Full sun all the time.


pm @markyscott for some insider details about growing in Houston......

 

[sorce]

@AndyJ just thinking about your leggy I too.

I don't ever let this one dry and it never gets anything besides normal dropping of old folaige and heavily shaded branches.



I water it when it's already wet. This is the first year of 2 or 3 it hasn't also had a moss layer that kept it more wet.

When fish ferted every other day one year, it grew longer runners.
This year it got the fish maybe 3 times.
Nothing else but water. Just grew the same strong folaige, only more compact.

Maybe it's genetics?
Maybe it's the 8822 DE?
The Iker pot?
I "never" prune it?
That good lake water?

It is always perfect. Always pest free.

That pic is kinda old, it looks even better now!

Sorce

 

[sorce]

Oh....so...

I think you have a mix of brown tips from dry roots where sparse and tips and either wire damage where it is clustered, or if the seller had a cat, cat spray. Check the pattern.

Seems 2 seperate incidences/causes.

Sorce

 

[Pharvey3232]

Nothing wrong here, why so vexed? Bio-gold? Organic pellets? These need to be broken down by microbes in the soil, so it's usually a couple weeks before the plant can access.
Junipers are fairly sturdy and can deal with too-dry/too-wet pretty well.
Full sun all the time.


pm @markyscott for some insider details about growing in Houston......

Thanks. Makes me feel a lot better knowing this. I'm just over thinking I'm sure. Nursery i bought it from told me the mai. Problem with a beginner and their first tree is over babying the tree and killing it with to much attention. Lol!!!
I've got it on a good 6 hours of sun and watering as needed schedule now.
As sorce said I'm gonna let it grow and get strong now !

 

[Pharvey3232]

@AndyJ just thinking about your leggy I too.

I don't ever let this one dry and it never gets anything besides normal dropping of old folaige and heavily shaded branches.

View attachment 329701

I water it when it's already wet. This is the first year of 2 or 3 it hasn't also had a moss layer that kept it more wet.

When fish ferted every other day one year, it grew longer runners.
This year it got the fish maybe 3 times.
Nothing else but water. Just grew the same strong folaige, only more compact.

Maybe it's genetics?
Maybe it's the 8822 DE?
The Iker pot?
I "never" prune it?
That good lake water?

It is always perfect. Always pest free.

That pic is kinda old, it looks even better now!

Sorce

Beautiful thriving juniper there sorce!!!

 

[sorce]

Beautiful thriving juniper there sorce!!!

It's just one of the lucky ones!

Sorce

 

[Pharvey3232]

I know I know. Patience. But every day the tree just gets swallowed up more with yellow brown tips and shoots. This afternoon while in full sun I noticed more. It appears the whole tree how had yellow brown tips. It's still damp from yesterday so I haven't watered as it yet. All I can do is keep doing what I'm doing and hope it will eventually stop Turning brown. Curious as to when the Tree eventually turns all brown will they shoots fall off and a new batch of healthy green shoots begin to appear in the next growing season ?

 

[Japonicus]

Juniperus/ Juniper Bonsai Species Guide – Bonsai4Me

www.bonsai4me.com

Reading the watering paragraph, makes me question when the juniper was repotted.

and either wire damage where it is clustered, or

I agree. I mentioned this earlier wandering when the seller wired the tree.
I still say it will take off next Spring.

 

[Pharvey3232]

Spoke with the nursery and he said it was wired and ready potted about 5 months ago. Akadama and Sphangnum moss He said that is what the nursery uses to great success

 

[sorce]

nursery uses

Not picking fights but truth truth...

I don't know how much prodding each nursery owner needs to also state their winter temps, but I think I had to uncover the 34degree temps at THG for myself.
Not that it needs to be volunteered for their statement to be true and in good faith.

I am absolutely convinced sphagnum in the roots has more and more potential to kill trees the lower the temperature gets, it also makes for worse freeze thaw effects.

Sphagnum above the soil, applied on near any manner, from full, shredded, mixed with green, etc, all seems to just turn into a matte of hard on the surface that doesn't really effect this phenomenon.

Add...

Mad props to @Japonicus for showing healthy old trees.
And BVF for all that good J info through the years.

The Ryan Neil quote was just for effect.

These fellas are always here!

Sorce

 

[Japonicus]

Mad props to @Japonicus for showing healthy old trees.
And BVF for all that good J info through the years.

The Ryan Neil quote was just for effect.

That's a frazzlin' nice ole tree. Love the nebari. It fills the pot.
What post did you quote Ryan in?

 

[sorce]

What post did you quote Ryan in?

A different thread!? Lol!I don't know!

Sorce

 

[Pharvey3232]

After speaking to some people at the nursery ive come to conclusion from what I was told that this particular tree was wired a month Or so before I bought it. I believe it's foliage yellowing and browning is a result of agitation from the wiring. . Not a big deal just wish I'd have been told so I wasn't running around with my head cut off trying different things. I'm not killing this tree. I doing everything according to its needs and requirements. Like japonicus said it should take off next season

 

[Japonicus]

this particular tree was wired a month Or so before I bought it.

In my 1st reply to you

I am curious as to when they applied the wire. Beautiful tree underway.

Still could be 2 scenarios at one time as sorce suggested.
So, you can deal with the sphagnum next April. I would take a few repottings
to get the soil replaced myself rather than 1 or 2, but that's me, I'm slow.

 

[Pharvey3232]

In my 1st reply to you

Still could be 2 scenarios at one time as sorce suggested.
So, you can deal with the sphagnum next April. I would take a few repottings
to get the soil replaced myself rather than 1 or 2, but that's me, I'm slow.

Nope. Your right in my opinion that was my first order of operation on the list . New soil and repotting ! April can't come fast enough ! Would you go with straight akadama ??You guys are the best

 

[Japonicus]

Nope. Your right in my opinion that was my first order of operation on the list . New soil and repotting ! April can't come fast enough ! Would you go with straight akadama ??You guys are the best

Nope no straight akadama. Fine to use in equal parts akadama, lava rock and pumice as with pines. I add an equal part of bark.
In my mix I replace akadama with longer lasting Monto Clay which is just Turface sized to 1/4". Fired much higher so doesn't break down as fast.

Bonsai Jack © – Ultra Premium Supplies

www.bonsaijack.com

so Jack's soils are tested for pathogens regularly. Very clean and he's quick to answer your questions and ship.
Price includes shipping on pre mix and soil components. Good cut paste too.

 

[Pharvey3232]

Fantastic!!! Many thanks!!!!!