Impossible Question to Answer

If you could get your hands on sloe...that mature bark is absolutely freaking insane...and... not found here. Black gnarly bark...with the simplicity of a white bloom...and slow berries that are fat,plump and blue.

Now they have been heard of being grown here. But... not for bonsai ...Jason Schley has a dead trunk of one. Again...the bark is wicked cool on more mature trees. You want to create movement though. A dream piece from the UK. I would own one...if there was one readily available.

Species:
Prunus spinosa, called blackthorn or sloe
Took the words right out of my thumbs. I can’t find it for sale anywhere
 
For native North American species, I have been playing with these:

PItch Pine, Pinus rigida
Seedlings I collected in my area to develop. Seem very promising, get interesting bark early
Others have been growing these as well. There are a few nice larger collected specimens. Unfortunately around me they tend to grow ram rod straight trunks so I opted to try ~2 year old seedlings I collect then can bend movement into.

Juniperious horizontalis 'wiltonii'
A cultivar of this native species I found at a local nursery. Found a few that had already really nice sized trunks for the size of the plant.
These are ground growers typically. Been playing with them for a few years. Jury is still out on how well they work for bonsai

There are a lot of people trying out native NA species. They just dont get talked about as much as the more common non native species used for bonsai
 
What are your thoughts on Halesia caroliniana (Carolina silverbell)? Dirr and Heuser say it's easily rooted from cuttings. Also, Callicarpa americana (beautyberry) is supposed to be very easy to grow from seed, as are Euonymus americanus and Euonymus atropurpureum.

Overall, I'm thinking my best choices would be trees that are easy to propagate that have unique characteristics which set them apart from traditional Asian species.
 
I, uh,....have a lot going
For next year I have planted:
Two different flowering cherries
Katsura (Cercidiphyllum japonicum)
Korean Fir
Korean Hornbeam
Pacific Madrone (because I badly want to make this one work)
Western Larch
Zelkova

Still to plant are:
Sitka Spruce
Dwarf Pomegranate
Sweet Bay Laurel

Seedlings that survived a full year:
Korean Fir
Dwarf Flowering quince
Serviceberry (Alnifolia)
(One) Bald Cypress
(One) Sitka Spruce
Dawn Redwood
Katsura
Zelkova
(Two) Flowering Cherry

I could of sworn I had some Princess Persimmon in there as well, but I couldn't find a log of it somewhere. Maybe just a fever dream thinking I bought some seeds. I'll look through my pile of seed bags later to confirm or not.
It's important to know that you likely won't get dwarf pomegranate from seed. Poms do not germinate true from seed.
 
Hornbeams
Seiju elms
cedrus brevifolia
Taxus brevifolia
Acer p nishiki gawa
Beauty Berry
cryptomeria
ume
silverberry
cork oak
 
It's important to know that you likely won't get dwarf pomegranate from seed. Poms do not germinate true from seed.
Thank you for the reminder on that. I had forgotten it was a cultivar until now and I reread the description.

Worse case I get some pomegranates to grow as some fruit trees. Gotta love them pomegranates.
 
Hackberry- very yes. Hornbeam- very yes. Boxelder- even I can’t really get behind that, and I have several
I've seen some amazing specimens, and in nature they're often the prototypical haunted house tree - it's a tough sell, I get it tho.

B
 
Hornbeams
Seiju elms
cedrus brevifolia
Taxus brevifolia
Acer p nishiki gawa
Beauty Berry
cryptomeria
ume
silverberry
cork oak

This is an excellent list. I hadn't heard of Cedrus brevifolia, and I didn't know Taxus brevifolia was so cold hardy until I looked it up. Apparently, it grows in Alaska.

I want to promote Carpinus caroliniana because it is significantly more cold hardy than any of the available Old World species, and it is very tolerant of wet soil, which makes it easy to keep. For similar reasons, I prefer Ulmus americana to its Chinese counterpart.

There's a native species of silverberry that I want to try, so that's on my list, along with beauty berry.

I'm growing regular green Acer palmatum var. palmatum from seed, but I would consider picking up a 'Nishiki Gawa' and taking cuttings and/or air layers.

Unfortunately, I can't grow cork oak here, but I am growing a hybrid Quercus lobata x macrocarpa in an effort to get a cold hardy tree with corky bark and reasonably-sized leaves for bonsai. If there's a hybrid Quercus macrocarpa x suber, then I want it.

I'm interested in trying different species of Prunus to find one that's somewhat resistant to fungus, but it might be tricky for me to keep them healthy. Every stone fruit I've tried to grow has been sickly, but perhaps that's because I've been growing commercial fruit tree cultivars, not healthy, wild-type trees.

I'm not really interested in cryptomeria.
 
How healthy is 'Nishiki Gawa' compared to the species? I'm not a fan of how weak and sickly other cultivars tend to be, but the bark is cool, and I love trees with orange fall foliage, so I might be interested. Also, how easily do cuttings root? Air layers?
 
How healthy is 'Nishiki Gawa' compared to the species? I'm not a fan of how weak and sickly other cultivars tend to be, but the bark is cool, and I love trees with orange fall foliage, so I might be interested. Also, how easily do cuttings root? Air layers?
Nishiki gawa is a very vigorous cultivar. Cuttings are pretty darn close to 100% success for a backyard hobbyist setup and I am 2/2 on air layer attempts. It barks up waaaay faster than arakawa too.
 
Diospyros virginiana
Carpinus caroliniana
Ostrya virginiana - likes more sun and is slightly more drought tolerant than Carpinus. Really an undervalued hornbeam (hop flowered hornbeam)
Pinus rigida
Pinus banksiana - jack pine for far northern growers - hardy thru zone 3. likely most winter hardy low elevation pine in North America.
Dawn redwoods are amazing with rapid growth, You can not plant them and forget them.
Crataegus - look for varieties with red fruit , black fruit varieties and green fruit types are not as interesting. Species are difficult to distinguish, and poorly described, so taxonomy is confused. Don't worry about names, just get one with good fruit and flowers.

Wild plums - find a local species that is pretty and propagate it. Although the domestic plum is really a pretty tree too, and apricots, the culinary apricot is as pretty as Ume, flowers just a week or two later. Culinary plums and apricots do flower before leaves have expanded so they can be used like later flowering versions of Ume. And fruit is still small enough it does not look too out of proportion should one allow fruit to develop.
 
Diospyros virginiana
Carpinus caroliniana
Ostrya virginiana - likes more sun and is slightly more drought tolerant than Carpinus. Really an undervalued hornbeam (hop flowered hornbeam)
Pinus rigida
Pinus banksiana - jack pine for far northern growers - hardy thru zone 3. likely most winter hardy low elevation pine in North America.
Dawn redwoods are amazing with rapid growth, You can not plant them and forget them.
Crataegus - look for varieties with red fruit , black fruit varieties and green fruit types are not as interesting. Species are difficult to distinguish, and poorly described, so taxonomy is confused. Don't worry about names, just get one with good fruit and flowers.

Wild plums - find a local species that is pretty and propagate it. Although the domestic plum is really a pretty tree too, and apricots, the culinary apricot is as pretty as Ume, flowers just a week or two later. Culinary plums and apricots do flower before leaves have expanded so they can be used like later flowering versions of Ume. And fruit is still small enough it does not look too out of proportion should one allow fruit to develop.
Second the recommendation of Pinus banksiana! One of my favorite cascade pines ever is in a private collection here in Virginia (zone 7B).
 
I've wanted to play with the American snowbell for a while, but it seems less cold hardy than the Asian species and I've never found anyone selling it. Halesia caroliniana looks really cool and would be fun

I've seen a couple of people growing various Aronia, especially Aronia melanocarpa 'Brilliantissima'. Not sure how well it propogates, but it has wonderful fall color, nice winter berries and low disease pressure

Gary Clark was really enthusiastic about chalk maples (Acer leucoderme), and his collected ones at the winter silhouette show had a lot of potential. Super tiny internodes and Gary said their vigor is similar to tridents

There's got to be a deciduous oak species that'll work for bonsai, though I don't have any ideas on which ones to try
 
Pomegranate takes well from cuttings and are perhaps one of the more resilient for field growing, much like Trident Maple. They will fatten up quickly in the ground provided they get enough water and nutrients. If you decide to plant some, I'll hit you up in 10 years for a tree.
 
Diospyros virginiana
Carpinus caroliniana
Ostrya virginiana - likes more sun and is slightly more drought tolerant than Carpinus. Really an undervalued hornbeam (hop flowered hornbeam)
Pinus rigida
Pinus banksiana - jack pine for far northern growers - hardy thru zone 3. likely most winter hardy low elevation pine in North America.
Dawn redwoods are amazing with rapid growth, You can not plant them and forget them.
Crataegus - look for varieties with red fruit , black fruit varieties and green fruit types are not as interesting. Species are difficult to distinguish, and poorly described, so taxonomy is confused. Don't worry about names, just get one with good fruit and flowers.

Wild plums - find a local species that is pretty and propagate it. Although the domestic plum is really a pretty tree too, and apricots, the culinary apricot is as pretty as Ume, flowers just a week or two later. Culinary plums and apricots do flower before leaves have expanded so they can be used like later flowering versions of Ume. And fruit is still small enough it does not look too out of proportion should one allow fruit to develop.

Thanks for the suggestions! I'm growing Diospyros virginiana, Carpinus caroliniana, Pinus rigida, Prunus americana, and Prunus caroliniana.

I haven't tried Ostrya virginiana or Pinus banksiana, since I live outside their native range.

Dawn redwoods are interesting, but I'm not sure I understand why I would grow one when I have the option to grow bald cypress.

Crataegus tends to have problems with cedar rust, which infects the twigs and creates galls in a manner similar to black knot. None of the fungicides I tried were particularly effective, so I quit growing them.
 
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