Giant Arakawa... Some questions.

[JeffJ]

Hello Everyone!

This is my Arakawa. I have owned this tree for about 5 years now. I'm no pro, so I am looking for a bit of guidance from the masses on a few things. Since owning this tree, I have never repotted it. Last summer I did not think the tree looked as good as it had in previous years.

Do you think repotting this tree in the next month would be a good idea and good for the tree?

When looking at the photo, specifically the right side of the tree, do you all have any recommendations on how to dense up the middle, right side of the tree?

Kind of a open ended questions here, but if this was your tree, would you be doing anything else to it or what would you do?

I will post a few more pics in the next post. Thanks all

 

[JeffJ]

 

[GreatLakesBrad]

Really beautiful tree!
I think repotting wise, it is likely safe to assume the tree is due. Timing would be dependent upon your climate and when you see buds beginning to swell, versus a particular date or month.

I am no expert on development/refinement - but my two cents is that this tree, while beautiful in its current form, could be taken to the next level by addressing some of the lack of taper in the branching. The lower branches in particular are roughly the same thickness as those further up the trunk. I think pruning back the upper canopy branching and letting lower branches run while keeping in mind where you will prune back to in an effort to create taper would be a good move over the next few years.

Also considering the fact that you may not be able to achieve backbudding as easily with arakawa as the corkbark continues to cover the surface...

Would love to hear from some of our more seasoned folks on what they might do with this tree. It is lovely!

 

[MHBonsai]

Really nice tree. When buds are extending I'd repot, it looks likely it's ready and if it declined somewhat last summer that could be your sign.

If this was mine, I'd be tempted to compact tree pretty dramatically, and also change the front slightly to hide the inverse taper from the big cut. The long straight main trunk section will be hard to work with. I think I would repot this spring and cut back hard at the red lines, and begin working more dense branching on a much smaller more powerful tree. The front may change to hide the scars and wire the new apex up...

 

[BrianBay9]

...and air layer that thick piece in the center.

 

[JeffJ]

Thanks for the great suggestions! It’s a lovely tree and I see what everyone is saying, just not sure I have the skill at this point to really know what to do once it’s chopped and new branches start forming. I will have to think all of this over. If I do decide to do a major chop/reduction. When is the best time to do this?

 

[BrianBay9]

If you're going to air layer any of the branches you probably want to start in late spring.

 

[Applicative]

Just a quick note, while your repotting likely is good for the tree health -

If you enjoy the tree leafed out, I mean you enjoy looking at it etc, maybe just give it a light trim and save the learning experience for some other similar experience.

I think it looks quite lovely. You could always niwaki or stylistically prune the tree to softly make some pads without large branch work.

 

[Potawatomi13]

Air layer off thinner tree above thickest trunk section. Redevelop tree from there. Also change trunk angle to informal upright and ground layer or thread graft roots where needed for better root spread.

 

[rockm]

I have found with my in ground landscape Arakawa that hard pruning has to be done before the branch "barks up" with the corky bark. Mine is reluctant to backbud after hard pruning on branches that have the thicker bark. So if you plan on cutting it back severly, get it done sooner rather than later. IMO, Your tree has excessively long branching that needs to be brought in

 

[Contact]

Con il mio Arakawa paesaggistico interrato ho scoperto che è necessario eseguire una potatura dura prima che il ramo "abbaia" con la corteccia sugherosa. Il mio è riluttante a germogliare dopo una potatura dura sui rami che hanno la corteccia più spessa. Quindi, se hai intenzione di ridurlo drasticamente, fallo il prima possibile. IMO, il tuo albero ha una ramificazione eccessivamente lunga che deve essere portata dentro

Totally agree. The branches are too much long and it's important to reduce them asap in my opinion.... Anyway very impressive tree, I really like it.

 

[JeffJ]

I have found with my in ground landscape Arakawa that hard pruning has to be done before the branch "barks up" with the corky bark. Mine is reluctant to backbud after hard pruning on branches that have the thicker bark. So if you plan on cutting it back severly, get it done sooner rather than later. IMO, Your tree has excessively long branching that needs to be brought in

So you’re suggesting just cutting the branches back a good bit and not doing a hard prune/reset? What would be your suggestions on cuts?

 

[Maiden69]

I will have to think all of this over. If I do decide to do a major chop/reduction. When is the best time to do this?

Here is a little advise. Think before you chop... and if possible, consult someone that has years of experience. This is something that Ryan pushes constantly, cutting a tree like this hard will set you back a huge amount of years. Especially corked up areas. The one area I think you need to pay a lot of attention is the one marked below.



There are way too many branches coming out of that area, also an apparent chop was performed there which is creating inverse swelling.

 

[Wood]

So you’re suggesting just cutting the branches back a good bit and not doing a hard prune/reset? What would be your suggestions on cuts?

I also would worry about no backbudding on branches that have barked up already, like @rockm said. Thread grafting new secondary branches onto the long primary branches would be a great and safe alternative. You likely don't have properly placed or long enough branch extensions currently to do that, so it would be a multi-year process. @MACH5 has posted lots of thread grafts on this site, and you should be able to find good tutorials here or on YouTube

Repotting is the first priority, especially if the tree's vigor has slowed down a little in the last couple of years. If you've got a club or upcoming workshop in the area, they can provide great support for that

My suggested general plan would be to (including an optional air layer):

1. Repot and get the tree healthy and vigorous
2. Wait until the first flush of growth has hardened off
3. Start an air layer early summer (probably June-ish. Once the first flush of growth has hardened is a great time to do that)
4. Grow long extensions from a handful of shoots to use as thread grafts
5. Separate the air layer after roots have taken
6. End of the 2024 growing season
7. Mid-to-late March, thread graft new secondary branches lower on the long, straight primaries
8. Once the thread grafts have taken, remove the entering side of the thread graft
9. Slowly start cutting back the primary branches to the thread grafts. This should be done in stages because you'll be removing so much foliage

Good luck you've got awesome material with a fantastic nebari there!

 

[rockm]

So you’re suggesting just cutting the branches back a good bit and not doing a hard prune/reset? What would be your suggestions on cuts?

I would prune all the branching back by at least half to 2/3 (if possible, if there is thicker bark where a cut would go, move out on the branch until you find smooth bark, but there.

As mentioned above, I would also repot in the spring and do a decent root prune. Reinvigorate the roots. At the same time, you can do the top pruning--pruning roots first will cut down on "bleeding" of sap from the top. I'd also look at removing some of the branches at the trunk completely. There a number of spots of cluster branching near the bottom. Left alone, those clusters will form lumps in the trunk--some of that is happening now.

 

[Kanorin]

This is a tree that is valuable because it is old, has great bark, has some good primary branch placements, and has been a bonsai for a long time. However it's heading downhill (as many others have mentioned) and it's evident that it hasn't really been worked on in 5+ years. I think a lot of people are nervous for you that the tree is going to slip away and not be able to be reigned back in if you don't start doing some maintenance and rebuilding work (as others above have stated).

But I'll also mention that with dozens of people on the internet giving you advice on how to handle the tree, it's kinda hard to decide which things to do, which not to do, which things to do when (which is different if you live in Florida vs. Minnesota), and which actions to do 1st, 2nd, third, etc. Therefore, I'd strongly recommend sitting down with an experienced club member (or better yet a bonsai professional) and figuring out your 2-3 year plan for the tree. I'm rooting for you to get this tree back on track!

 

[JeffJ]

Thank you all very much for all the comments!!

I have gotten in direct contact with the head of our club. We are going to do a one on one with the tree when the timing is right. We are going to repot and start sorting out branch work. I’m hoping we, and I’m sure we will, come up with a longer term plan on what the next steps will be moving forward in the coming years.

I will keep this thread updated as the tree progresses

 

[JeffJ]

This is what the tree looked like when I purchased it.

 

[JeffJ]

 

[leatherback]

Just a side-thought, of which I do not knwo whether it is true..
I could imagine that for arakawa it may help to do the heavy pruning and the rootwork in different seasons. WIth intact root systems I could imagine better budding responses. (Also, perhaps it is worth doing the trimming in fall, allowing the tree the whole winter to push buds?

Not sure, would be nice experiemnt to see what is needed for good budding on corked branches.