Elm Root Cuttings
- Thread starter Smoke
- Start date
M. Frary
Bonsai Godzilla
That's it in a nutshell.
M. Frary
Bonsai Godzilla
If things ever thaw I have a couple pictures of little cork bark elm root cuttings I started last year to post. About as big around as a pencil. I have a ton of elms that get repotted this year so I will be taking root cuttings of all sorts.
Thanks Smoke for starting this thread. Root cuttings are the way to go for interesting trunks and a good jump on development toward bonsai. I am actually digging deeper this year when collecting elms in order to get root cuttings. One dig multiple trees.
Also does anyone know if hawthorn grow from root cuttings? They also tend to grow roots in interesting shapes. Going to try it but would like to know if anyone sees has too.
Thanks Smoke for starting this thread. Root cuttings are the way to go for interesting trunks and a good jump on development toward bonsai. I am actually digging deeper this year when collecting elms in order to get root cuttings. One dig multiple trees.
Also does anyone know if hawthorn grow from root cuttings? They also tend to grow roots in interesting shapes. Going to try it but would like to know if anyone sees has too.
Cypress187
Masterpiece
Where / how can i see if a plant is root-cuttable/growing?
erb.75
Chumono
I put some yatsubusa elm root cuttings in some soil yesterday, and just now saw smoke's post about soaking them in water. Any have opinions on the success rate of soaking them vs sticking them in soil and watering?
M. Frary
Bonsai Godzilla
They don't need soaking. Just plant them up. He just kept them in water until he was ready to plant them. If a root dries out its no longer viable. That's why it's important to water a tree properly. Underwatering/ drying out will kill a tree faster than overwatering.
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
Pretty sure that's just to keep them viable till the repot of the tree is done.
I thought about it the other day, whilst digging holes to throw them in in my catchall. Like a moron!
Have the water ready!
Sorce
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
How do we achieve a decent Nebari on these?
Groundlayers later?
Sorce
Groundlayers later?
Sorce
Brian Van Fleet
Pretty Fly for a Bonsai Guy
You have to work the roots. Hard, and every couple years at least.
Attachments
Anthony
Imperial Masterpiece
Here we go -
First image - Elm cuttings
second image - Catlin elm
third image - We call them - yatsubusa elm
Good Day
Anthony
image -
First image - Elm cuttings
second image - Catlin elm
third image - We call them - yatsubusa elm
Good Day
Anthony
image -
Anthony
Imperial Masterpiece
Also Hackberry root cuttings
Good Day
Anthony
Good Day
Anthony
Anthony
Imperial Masterpiece
Here is an example of how changeable elms can be from root.
The first is a root about 20 ish years old. No attempt was made to grow it on. Too strange.
The seond is the donor, also a root from China about 50 years old and hole inside.
Good Day
Anthony .
The first is a root about 20 ish years old. No attempt was made to grow it on. Too strange.
The seond is the donor, also a root from China about 50 years old and hole inside.
Good Day
Anthony .
Anthony
Imperial Masterpiece
Hackberry from root, a gift from the dead mother tree's side root. Should be about 30 ish
years old.
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Anthony
years old.
Good Day
Anthony
Anthony
Imperial Masterpiece
Two more from root.
Good Day
Anthony
clevetromba
Shohin
I keep hearing this phrase "work the roots" What exactly does that mean? Do you mean repot and root prune?
clevetromba
Shohin
Great trees Anthony! What do you mean by, "grow it on"?
Anthony
Imperial Masterpiece
Cleve,
there are two problems with elms. Go for a large trunk and the branches go coarse or you end up with large wounds that have to be healed as you cut back for finer branches/branchlets.
What we do is let the tree age naturally, and this may take 10 to 20 years, the trunk slowly thickening, wounds are small and you can get fine branching.
In this trees case, it has remained in that pot for years, all that is done, is cutting back the branchlets. It has not been allowed to go into a larger pot [ grow it on.]
Apologies for not being clear.
Thanks for the compliment, I will pass it on.[ I only weed and water, no ability at design, brother-in-law does that,]
Good Day
Anthony
there are two problems with elms. Go for a large trunk and the branches go coarse or you end up with large wounds that have to be healed as you cut back for finer branches/branchlets.
What we do is let the tree age naturally, and this may take 10 to 20 years, the trunk slowly thickening, wounds are small and you can get fine branching.
In this trees case, it has remained in that pot for years, all that is done, is cutting back the branchlets. It has not been allowed to go into a larger pot [ grow it on.]
Apologies for not being clear.
Thanks for the compliment, I will pass it on.[ I only weed and water, no ability at design, brother-in-law does that,]
Good Day
Anthony
clevetromba
Shohin
Anthony, no apologies necessary, I just wasn't familiar with the idiom "grow it on", I know what you mean now. I have experienced the large wounds you're talking about. Do they eventually scar over?
clevetromba
Shohin
The tree on the left: will you eventually remove the lowest two branches and regrow them? They seem almost as thick as the trunk.
erb.75
Chumono
Wow. that takes patience. I prefer to grow them big, hack them back, and let the tree heal. I don't mind seeing scars. Plus, given the 10-20 year timeframe, those scars can heal up pretty nicely if they are managed well. Kudos to you for patience though!
