Dormant Sprays

[JoeR]

I’ve read so many articles all saying something different, it simply leads to confusion. So- I have Japanese maples and various other deciduous that likely have fungal infections. What do I spray, and when?

Based on Scott’s article, I’d say diluted like sulfur on the trunk and branches as buds swell- but to me, that seems a bit late as the trees are already infected. What he suggests is more of a preventative or no? Is there a way to cure them during winter?

 

[Lazylightningny]

Has anyone used a fungicide such as Daconil or copper as a dormant spray?

 

[GrimLore]

Has anyone used a fungicide such as Daconil or copper as a dormant spray?

I do

Grimmy

 

[Lazylightningny]

I do

Grimmy

Both going into dormancy and coming out of dormancy?

 

[GrimLore]

Both going into dormancy and coming out of dormancy?

Yes, I use the copper only once at those times to use it up on Fruit trees, have gone to a three time a year Sulfur soil drench since and find it far more effective here where I live.
Daconil is my go to for anything that may/could have Fungal or does have Fungal problems. Primarily here used as a preventative late Fall and once in Spring on plants growing in dark or shaded areas. It is very effective for new fungal infested plants if received as such - in that case I use it every 7 days AND the Sulfur soil drench - usually shows great results.

Grimmy

 

[Lazylightningny]

Yes, I use the copper only once at those times to use it up on Fruit trees, have gone to a three time a year Sulfur soil drench since and find it far more effective here where I live.
Daconil is my go to for anything that may/could have Fungal or does have Fungal problems. Primarily here used as a preventative late Fall and once in Spring on plants growing in dark or shaded areas. It is very effective for new fungal infested plants if received as such - in that case I use it every 7 days AND the Sulfur soil drench - usually shows great results.

Grimmy

It sounds like I have the same problem. You mix the lime sulfur at a ratio of 2 tablespoons to 1 gallon of water? Have you found any plants that are sensitive to the drench?

 

[GrimLore]

It sounds like I have the same problem. You mix the lime sulfur at a ratio of 2 tablespoons to 1 gallon of water? Have you found any plants that are sensitive to the drench?

So far I have used the Sulfur powder 2 tablespoons per gallon on the following with no bad results;
Elms, all
Maples, all
Fruit trees, all
Cotoneaster, 2 varieties
Quince, 3 varieties
Junipers, many
Azalea, Rhododendron, many
All above potted.

Roses
Barberry
and many others in landscape as well.

Never have seen a need for it in Tropicals, Sub Tropicals and indoor Exotics.

I also use it if I have compaction and root damage. At repot after trimming away damaged roots, any plant.

Sounds like a lot but I have only used 3/4 of a pound in two full seasons. 1 pound costs me just under 10.00USD at AGWAY, certain it can be found for less. Also by drench I mean water it in like a soak through watering.

Grimmy

 

[markyscott]

Based on Scott’s article, I’d say diluted like sulfur on the trunk and branches as buds swell- but to me, that seems a bit late as the trees are already infected. What he suggests is more of a preventative or no? Is there a way to cure them during winter?

Dormant spray application of diluted lime sulfur will kill exterior fungal growth on the tree on contact before it infects the plant tissue. It is a very effective preventative, but will not cure diseased tissue. In fact, it is not all that effective after the buds have opened because the fungus will enter the tissue where 1) it becomes very difficult to spray with the solution and 2) the solution will likely damage the soft tissue in the concentrations you are applying it.

I imagine treatment of existing fungal problems during winter is problematic. Systemic fungicides are probably your best bet, but their uptake during winter is probably limited due to the reduced transpiration during that season.

Scott

 

[GrimLore]

I imagine treatment of existing fungal problems during winter is problematic. Systemic fungicides are probably your best bet, but their uptake during winter is probably limited due to the reduced transpiration during that season.

Through a couple of years of experimenting I find that any fungal problem I have encountered requires treating the substrate along with systemic or soil drench/watering in of Sulfur and/or something like Daconil Spring Summer and Fall to break the cycle. Having to deal with extensive work to rid the cause by correcting landscape having pseudomonas syringae taught me that. Yes it is a fast spreading horrific problem and classified airborne BUT it first spawns in the soil with suitable conditions. Other fungal(many) like Cedar Rust start airborne but keep the cycle going in the soil, going airborne again.
I am not saying all that to argue as I respect you and your contributions highly but sharing to explain what I have found here where I live and the results. I firmly believe a combo method to break the cycle is need for an entire year. After broken a nominal correct preventative with less attention to the substrate goes a long way.

Grimmy

 

[M. Frary]

I've never dormant sprayed.

 

[Guy Vitale]

I've never dormant sprayed.

I never have either Mike, but I think I will this year, not sure if it was the wetter than normal spring/summer, but some of my trees seamed to have gotten hit this year. Also on my deciduous trees, I want the leaves to look better during fall colour changes.

 

[M. Frary]

I never have either Mike, but I think I will this year, not sure if it was the wetter than normal spring/summer, but some of my trees seamed to have gotten hit this year. Also on my deciduous trees, I want the leaves to look better during fall colour changes.

Maybe I'm lucky or what I don't know. I've seen needle cast on my pines but it just seems to go away. Maybe it can't survive the long cold but I nevervworry about it.
As for fall colors the trees in the landscape get some But my trees in pots are still green and growing. So when winter does come the leaves just brown up and fall off. It happens fast.

 

[Dav4]

I never did either, until I moved to GA and started having annual bouts with spider mites. Now, it seems my deciduous trees may be having some fungal issues, as well. Oh well, it is what it is.

 

[M. Frary]

I never did either, until I moved to GA and started having annual bouts with spider mites. Now, it seems my deciduous trees may be having some fungal issues, as well. Oh well, it is what it is.

Well you had to move south huh?
I think a lot of pest issues may be regional or related to climate.
Vance gets spider mites and he's 180 miles south. I bought a juniper a couple years ago that had mites from a nursery 80 miles away. I didn't treat it. Just froze them and the next spring they were gone.

 

[miker]

What does everybody think about my just using a half strength dose of Phyton on my nice stuff when I do my dormant spraying, just to make sure.

I bought that today (in addition to a concentrated solution of acephate, Bonide, for pests) and it would be nice to be able to use what I have. On the other hand, it might be more cost effective to get the sulfur discussed above for routine dormant spraying.

Phyton would certainly be a sure thing though.

 

[Lazylightningny]

I've never dormant sprayed.

The thing is Mike, in my yard I have a serious issue with powdery mildew and leaf curl. It infects only my malus, prunus, and Japanese maples, but I have to really stay on top of it, which I am not good at doing. It's bad enough that I'm considering just not growing those species any more.

 

[JudyB]

The thing is Mike, in my yard I have a serious issue with powdery mildew and leaf curl. It infects only my malus, prunus, and Japanese maples, but I have to really stay on top of it, which I am not good at doing. It's bad enough that I'm considering just not growing those species any more.

That's sad actually. Maybe try a completely different soil mix, to see if that might make a change. I would.

 

[JudyB]

The thing is Mike, in my yard I have a serious issue with powdery mildew and leaf curl. It infects only my malus, prunus, and Japanese maples, but I have to really stay on top of it, which I am not good at doing. It's bad enough that I'm considering just not growing those species any more.

You should also consider using a good systemic. If you apply that twice a year, you may have a lot less to stay on top of.

 

[M. Frary]

The thing is Mike, in my yard I have a serious issue with powdery mildew and leaf curl. It infects only my malus, prunus, and Japanese maples, but I have to really stay on top of it, which I am not good at doing. It's bad enough that I'm considering just not growing those species any more.

I can see why you are asking then.
Lime Judy said. Have you tried a systemic?

 

[JoeR]

Yes, I use the copper only once at those times to use it up on Fruit trees, have gone to a three time a year Sulfur soil drench since and find it far more effective here where I live.
Daconil is my go to for anything that may/could have Fungal or does have Fungal problems. Primarily here used as a preventative late Fall and once in Spring on plants growing in dark or shaded areas. It is very effective for new fungal infested plants if received as such - in that case I use it every 7 days AND the Sulfur soil drench - usually shows great results.

Grimmy

Awesome info. So if you have fungus infected plants, which I have, you use Daconil every seven days regardless of season? What proportion of water/sulfur do you use in combination with the Daconil, and how often do you use the drench? I’m wanting to try exactly what you do so I can cure my trees, ASAP..