Delve into a newbies garden! 😎

Trident maple too, this one may go in the ground next year!

Apparently the leaf colour is from being in a polytunnel, recently imported. Yet to learn about this properly!
 

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I didn't notice this Separation before. There is a lot of folaige on that first be part?

I'd cut that knob off.

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Sorce
 
I didn't notice this Separation before. There is a lot of folaige on that first be part?

I'd cut that knob off.

View attachment 321355

Sorce

These photos make it clearer?
 

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Nice to see another uk bonsai person on here . Nice trees clorgan! And By the way , We're not all as daft in the northeast as the geordie shore lot . But we are quite daft non the less 🤪
 
I don't know when cutting these would make Sense, as I have no experience with these.

But that cut, and another above the third branch on the right trunk seems fitting.

The dominant tree should be larger, where you still have a larger(wider), shorter, or submissive tree.

Sorce
 
Thought I'd make one of these threads (such a sheep 🐑) - many of my postings don't really deserve threads of their own tbh, so will be bunging stuff in here instead.

So i always get bored in the summer holidays, most teachers love them but I hate not being busy! So I thought I'd have a go at whipping up a freebie bench to pass the time and get rid of the butt shaped groove in my sofa...

So it's begun 😂 It's no looker that's for sure, but I just used what I had available and it's a start. Top needs a lick of varnish or something of the sort. Haven't attached the blocks together, feels pretty study without.
Is that an MDF top? I don’t think varnish will be hardcore enough to stop that caving in after a heavy downpour or two if it is. Not to rain on your parade...but it just might. Got any old pallets or can you get any? They’re pretty good for a make do and mend.
 
I don't know when cutting these would make Sense, as I have no experience with these.

But that cut, and another above the third branch on the right trunk seems fitting.

The dominant tree should be larger, where you still have a larger(wider), shorter, or submissive tree.

Sorce

Cheers for the ideas, good food for thought, I'll have a ponder over it!
 
Is that an MDF top? I don’t think varnish will be hardcore enough to stop that caving in after a heavy downpour or two if it is. Not to rain on your parade...but it just might. Got any old pallets or can you get any? They’re pretty good for a make do and mend.

Yeah to be honest I just threw the top on as it's all we had in the garage! I'm sure I could get hold of a pallet, always see them on FB marketplace. My fella probably has some at work actually..Good shout cheers 😁
 
Been thinking about a potentilla of mine today...

Here's it when I first purchased in mid July - bit of a mess!
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Gave it a clean up
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Put it in the ground a few days later in the hope to thicken the trunk, didn't touch the roots. Going to tackle them in spring.

Here's it today. So far I've just let it get settled and grow, and I've been enjoying the flowers!
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Would it be a good idea to hard prune now or is it a bit late for that? If too late for a hard chop I'm guessing a light prune and removal of flowers would be a good idea?
 
Unless the trunk is the thickness you want, don’t cut anything off.
 
https://www.evergreengardenworks.com/trunks.htm is essential reading for growing your own stuff. Use a scale of 1:7 or thereabouts as a guide between trunk width at the base and eventual height. This is only a very rough indicator: if you want a chunkier, more powerful tree then the second number (height) should be lower. Deciding whether you want a 20cm tree or a 50cm one will make a massive difference how thick the trunk should be and will drastically affect how long it needs to stay in the ground to thicken.

As Tom has said pruning will drastically reduce thickening. If you want a thick trunked potentilla it may take in excess of a decade with minimal pruning before you can start the training process.
 
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https://www.evergreengardenworks.com/trunks.htm is essential reading for growing your own stuff. Use a scale of 1:7 or thereabouts as a guide between trunk width at the base and eventual height. This is only a very rough indicator: if you want a chunkier, more powerful tree then the second number (height) should be lower. Deciding whether you want a 20cm tree or a 50cm one will make a massive difference how thick the trunk should be and will drastically affect how long it needs to stay in the ground to thicken.

As Tom has said pruning will drastically reduce thickening. If you want a thick trunked potentilla it may take in excess of a decade with minimal pruning before you can start the training process.

Thanks so much for this, really helpful stuff! The article is great - I've been reading that much that it's hard to actually retain it all, even the obvious stuff, but the article explains it all really clearly. I'm sure I'll be referring back to it often 😊
 
I thought it'd be a good idea to justify my repetitive questions and poor memory - why I ask a lot of simple answered questions here that I've probably asked before...

I blame ADHD, I'm not trying to be annoying I promise 😂😂
 

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Here's my little spiraea...First photo is when I first got it (end of June) after removing many damaged leaves - it really didn't like the hot weather in the post! Second photo is from last week and third photo is today after wiring some of the main branches. Reluctant to bend too much as they're pretty brittle, I'd have wired a lot sooner if it hadn't been so stressed.

Quite impressed with its recovery, I thought it was a goner!

Any feedback/suggestions on it would be warmly welcome 😊 also, the new branches grow with no taper and very straight - think I read that this is common for spiraea?

Cheers 😎
 

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Been reading up on the dos and don'ts of the twin trunk style and made a quick virt of the spiraea.

Tried to use what I read about the style in the virt where possible... Hopefully the virt is realistic.

- Trunks should move in the same direction
- Direction of the trunk and apex is the same
- Train branches as if it's a single tree as the trunks are close together
- Lowest branch should be on the smaller trunk
- Overall outline should form a triangle
- Don't cross branches over the trunks
- Branches from each trunk should not be at the same level

I've cut the right trunk slightly, thinking that small left branch near the cut could be the new leader.
 

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