I likes your JWP
@JudyB
I have a mugo pine with triple heads on strong candles.
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But like Frank, I've never seen them on my JWP. Mugo is single flush...normally.
Kimuras method is outlined in the "book" / collection, Bonsai Today Master Series PINES.
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Be careful if you buy this book, as it is a collection of different styles and methods.
It can get confusing. Can't tell you how many times I've read in this "book" a method,
went outside to my tree, and drew nothing but blanks. After a while it's forks knives and spoons
simple as setting the table. The tree will become balanced using Kimuras method and you will
enjoy pinching back all the candles at the same time, then following up on any stragglers through May.
In this book, you will also read that it is fine to allow the candles to remain full, become shoots, then cut the shoots back.
This would work fine to reenergize a tree that was more on the weak side. I've never done this yet though.
I pinched back all candles 75% this week on my JWP, save for any very weak shoots I might want to keep.
Adair also advocates no fertilizer until the needle sheaths fall. I start a bit earlier than that, and as Brian mentions
fish emulsion, then there's seaweed extract that pairs well with that. Adair and many others also use Julian Adams's
Micromax about the time the candles are moving in Spring. So he does not skip micro nutrients at all. Plus Adairs trees are all refined.
I remember him mentioning a touch of fish emulsion in the past is fine once or twice.
Just wait till late Summer before thinking about full strength fertilizer once your tree is back on track to prevent longer needles.
When candles are midways open/closed is time to spray to lower needle cast pressure,
repeated once opened. Paired with Bonide systemic anti fungal granules.
Could this be due to...
I'm not understanding the every other candle part. Could you explain?
Perhaps you're just stepping (progressing the steps) with the balancing method, with the every other candle terminology?