sorce
Nonsense Rascal
Burn it!
Sorce
Sorce
JBP Spring Candle Work...???
- Thread starter tmjudd1
- Start date
River's Edge
Masterpiece
It is important to identify your objectives for this tree, before any clear advice can be offered. One can answer your individual questions but the overall approach is the key to success! Developing the tree in proportion is very desirable.
For example candle work may not be aggressive enough to manage growth on specific branches, or it may be too aggressive to allow extension for specific branches. In particular the apical sacrifices for thickening portions of the trunk!
The approach depends on the objectives for the tree and also the portions of the tree under development.
At six years of age the trunk is likely less than two inches in diameter, which may be acceptable for a smaller design but often will require additional thickening for medium to large formats.
Based on the picture shown some branches and candles appear thicker than desired for the overall height at this point. Pictures can be very deceptive however. If you could provide some measurements and a clearer picture of the trunk and branching that would be very helpful.
First, I would suggest thinning the number of shoots at each whorl to one or two as a beginning to clear the image. If leaving two avoid bar branches and leave different size shoots depending on purpose in that location. For example if an apical or sacrifice branch leave the centre shoot and one medium side shoot. If on a design branch leave medium shoots not opposite each other. This will also prevent swelling at whorl locations that can spoil design.
The second suggestion would be to reduce candles and needles on sacrifice branches closer to the trunk, this would prevent weakening the smaller branches and shoots that you may wish to retain for final design.
These two steps will go a long way to presenting a clearer picture of the overall potential.
If you are wishing to further compact design or create addition back budding than consider cutback into needles rather than candle breaking or removal. This step can be used on individual branches as desired without applying to the tree as an overall approach. often used to compact and manage growth on branches one wishes to retain for final design.
For example candle work may not be aggressive enough to manage growth on specific branches, or it may be too aggressive to allow extension for specific branches. In particular the apical sacrifices for thickening portions of the trunk!
The approach depends on the objectives for the tree and also the portions of the tree under development.
At six years of age the trunk is likely less than two inches in diameter, which may be acceptable for a smaller design but often will require additional thickening for medium to large formats.
Based on the picture shown some branches and candles appear thicker than desired for the overall height at this point. Pictures can be very deceptive however. If you could provide some measurements and a clearer picture of the trunk and branching that would be very helpful.
First, I would suggest thinning the number of shoots at each whorl to one or two as a beginning to clear the image. If leaving two avoid bar branches and leave different size shoots depending on purpose in that location. For example if an apical or sacrifice branch leave the centre shoot and one medium side shoot. If on a design branch leave medium shoots not opposite each other. This will also prevent swelling at whorl locations that can spoil design.
The second suggestion would be to reduce candles and needles on sacrifice branches closer to the trunk, this would prevent weakening the smaller branches and shoots that you may wish to retain for final design.
These two steps will go a long way to presenting a clearer picture of the overall potential.
If you are wishing to further compact design or create addition back budding than consider cutback into needles rather than candle breaking or removal. This step can be used on individual branches as desired without applying to the tree as an overall approach. often used to compact and manage growth on branches one wishes to retain for final design.
tmjudd1
Mame
Weeds removed! I also topped my infested pots off with a 'semi thick' layer of smooth river pebbles that won't retain moisture, nor contribute to topical growth (hopefully). Those pebbles should also help to retain moisture once it gets really hot during the summer. "Fingers Crossed!" 
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tmjudd1
Mame
Sorce... I thought about that, but that stuff is too green to easily burn. I'd have to use one of my 'High-Power' rocket motor igniters to get 'em going. Those igniters will lite an ice-cube on fire, but they are also a pain to make and I don't want to waste them on a weed!
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
Sorce... I thought about that, but that stuff is too green to easily burn. I'd have to use one of my 'High-Power' rocket motor igniters to get 'em going. Those igniters will lite an ice-cube on fire, but they are also a pain to make and I don't want to waste them on a weed!
I think maybe I meant singe.... probably just singe!
As long as it's fun! Torch?
Sorce
Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
Do not be surprised to see that weed grow again. It can grow from bits of root left in the soil. It can grow from seed in the soil. You are likely to battle with it for 3 -5 years but provided you stop any further seeds you should get on top of it - eventually.
Flame is remarkably effective with weeds. They do not need to be totally crisped. Just enough to melt the waxy cuticle covering leaves is usually enough to kill existing leaves. We use a flame thrower to weed the paths at our Community garden but now have someone on hand with a hose after the unfortunate incident where a burning leaf landed in the straw mulch on the asparagus bed
Not sure I would want to use it among the bonsai though. Plenty of far safer and better ways to deal with weeds in bonsai pots.
Flame is remarkably effective with weeds. They do not need to be totally crisped. Just enough to melt the waxy cuticle covering leaves is usually enough to kill existing leaves. We use a flame thrower to weed the paths at our Community garden but now have someone on hand with a hose after the unfortunate incident where a burning leaf landed in the straw mulch on the asparagus bed
Not sure I would want to use it among the bonsai though. Plenty of far safer and better ways to deal with weeds in bonsai pots.
Bu-Jetjet
Mame
I have the same weed with my cork-bark JBP... interestingly enough, I don't have it with any of my Ponderosas (maybe it's just luck).
Japonicus
Imperial Masterpiece
second that. bits of roots in the soil and I wear goggles for eye protection if they've gone to seed when tweezing them out.
I'm ordering me one too when I get more coper wire and MicroMax
