All aboard the Mugo train!

He will probably be the voice of reason. I have this propensity to cut things back far. I imagine he will slow me down a little. But then again I watched him cut the crap out of these things. Maybe I'll have to be the voice of reason. Poor tree.
 
I'm back and overwhelmed with the stuff you guys have come up with. Most of the stubs to be cut back should be left for a year and then do with them what you want. It's a turd jump when you get forced into doing something just because your lack of patience made some bad things happen. Most of these trees are pretty nice but all of them will take a little time. Most of these guys need a lot of time to develop some charactor. This can be accelerated by starting to consider connected lines leading to a singular trunk line. I am not seeing that yet. No looking for a connected trunk line in the mess of branches. I am still looking for the appearance of larger trunk trees.

In my study of Mugo Pines I discovered that this tree grows the way it does in order to fit into the environment where it naturally occurs that forces it to grow between rocks and debris from the rest of the forest. If you go through all the information you can find about Mugos as the occur in nature you will notice that a single straight trunk standing up straight is almost an impossibility. For further research I would suggest you look into studying Bristlecone Pines and the ways they grow. My research has shown me that the two trees are very similar in the way they grow.
 
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Hey there sir. I really want to know what you think of this guy. I'll get some better pics this week. The trunk is an easy 2" the overall tree as it sits is probably 18-24" tall, I want to bring that down to around 12" But first I need to know what to do. Its been in this pot a #1 Anderson for years it would appear, it is very happy though, new growth for the year has already hardened off. I was thing repot and start working the roots this year then style next year. I'm really in no rush but its quite obvious this tree is very ready for work.
 

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Most of the time I am having to complain that the pictures I get do not pull back enough to show appropriate detail; in your case it is the opposite. I do see the really good trunk and I am assuming the tree is Pumilio. But the back ground is such that everything in the back ground blends into a green blur. In order to reduce the tree down we need to get the tree to back bud or do some sort of grafting but I cannot see what we have to deal with. Better and more detailed photos are necessary.
 
This can be accelerated by starting to consider connected lines leading to a singular trunk line. I am not seeing that yet.

I was going to wait till I got around you but I already know what I'm going to eliminate. I'll get after it this weekend.
 
Most of the time I am having to complain that the pictures I get do not pull back enough to show appropriate detail; in your case it is the opposite. I do see the really good trunk and I am assuming the tree is Pumilio. But the back ground is such that everything in the back ground blends into a green blur. In order to reduce the tree down we need to get the tree to back bud or do some sort of grafting but I cannot see what we have to deal with. Better and more detailed photos are necessary.

Here you are sir. Hopefully we can make something decent out of this mess. I'm almost leaning towards the rarely seen cascading mugo. The way this thing is coming out of the dirt I really think it could work. my real question is roots this year or style this year. What do you think will be best for this guy.
 

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This is actually a pretty nice tree as Mugos go. One thing I have come to realize, or maybe it is accept, is the fact that finding a Mugo that is only one or two steps away from being a bonsai is almost a myth. Most nursery Mugos are in need of major reduction, a process I look at as weathering. In the wild the weather and environment are pretty brutal with these trees. Branches are broken, the dead wood is polished, splintered and any number of things over any number of years eventually revealing an image that is worthy of a bonsai. Most of this with nursery material must be done by you and I. You are going to have to spend time with this tree looking at it from all angles and directions and in different light exposures. The way light can hit a tree can reveal options you may not see at other times. The major fact is that you probably will not want to make a bonsai of the whole tree. A good portion of this tree will probably be removed over the years to reveal the bonsai hiding in plain sight. Mugos, when young, are very virgorous and produce branches all over the place. Many of them are formed form many spring buds that occur in the spring creating a knuckle with branches growing out in all sorts of directions mostly right accros from each other. These formations create bar branches and will always be the bane of bonsai design. It is for this reason much of the tree has to be reduced down to eliminate these formations.
 
Thank you. Im in it for the long haul on this one. I killed the first one I had due to over watering. after reading your advice i'm thinking all I should do this year is repot and maybe do some root reduction(take out the first piece of pie) and stare at it until something comes to me.
What do you think of that first set of lower branches, a total bar-branch that needs to be addressed very soon or i'm scared will begin to create reverse taper. Any input?

Srry for thread jacking M.F.
 
I am thinking that it may be possible to make the entire bonsai from the first set of branches or maybe the second set of branches as you proceed up the tree.
This is the way my mind works, look for the smallest believable tree.
 
Thank you. Im in it for the long haul on this one. I killed the first one I had due to over watering. after reading your advice i'm thinking all I should do this year is repot and maybe do some root reduction(take out the first piece of pie) and stare at it until something comes to me.
What do you think of that first set of lower branches, a total bar-branch that needs to be addressed very soon or i'm scared will begin to create reverse taper. Any input?

Srry for thread jacking M.F.
Jack away bud! Isn't that what we're here for? Let 'er rip!
 
Srry for thread jacking M.F.
Let 'er rip!

The title does say All aboard!

Man. I bought one the other day. Mostly to board the train again.
My last one did 106mph on a curve slated for 50.

This one has a Nice base and some taper. I found some interesting branching, which made me buy it, but it ends there.

So my question @Vance Wood .
Can I overcome a nasty knuckle with all 30 branches originating from it?

Or should I get off at the next stop to find another?

Thanks!

Sorce
 
Here it is.

I really like the base on this. 20150521_052704.jpg

But all this is coming from that knuckle. All sized from chopstick to black&mild.20150521_052949.jpg

My thoughts for kicks. I was thinking of taking off all the weakest branches to maintain vigor and get in there.

I figure a lot of carving (years later) Will be the only remedy.20150521_052904.jpg

This was the only one with 2-3 inch new growth. So I think it is healthy. It looks much better than the last. Which had some bugs in it.
This year the depot trees come with an insecticide tag. So may be better.
This one is from Maryland.

Thanks!

Sorce
 

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The title does say All aboard!

Man. I bought one the other day. Mostly to board the train again.
My last one did 106mph on a curve slated for 50.

This one has a Nice base and some taper. I found some interesting branching, which made me buy it, but it ends there.

So my question @Vance Wood .
Can I overcome a nasty knuckle with all 30 branches originating from it?

Or should I get off at the next stop to find another?

Thanks!

Sorce
A nasty knuckle is only an opportunity for future fun things to happen if you can avoid the idea that you have to use every branch the tree has provided you. In other words; if the only branches you use, come from the knuckle, you have made yourself the bonsai version of a knuckle sandwich.
 
Here it is.

I really like the base on this. View attachment 74530

But all this is coming from that knuckle. All sized from chopstick to black&mild.View attachment 74532

My thoughts for kicks. I was thinking of taking off all the weakest branches to maintain vigor and get in there.

I figure a lot of carving (years later) Will be the only remedy.View attachment 74533

This was the only one with 2-3 inch new growth. So I think it is healthy. It looks much better than the last. Which had some bugs in it.
This year the depot trees come with an insecticide tag. So may be better.
This one is from Maryland.

Thanks!

Sorce
The base on this tree is absolutely worth the effort to exploit. Do you know if this is one of the dwarf cultivars like Mops or Valley Cushion? You have to look at the tree from that view point, every thing else is secondary and almost anything can be regrown. I would get myself into the shade and remove this tree from the nursery container and with fingers only remove all of the lose crud from the top of the soil mass so that you can get a good look at the trunk and the primary branches. I can already see that there are some branches that will need to be removed; the question is which ones? Did I mention put it back into the container when done looking? Of course you know that but some may be scratching their heads in wonderment.
 
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Vance:
I was think along the lines of a raft. Comments please.
Joedes
 
Vance :
Any thoughts? It is starting to get warmer in Massachusetts and would like to do something with this.
Joedes
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Vance :
Any thoughts? It is starting to get warmer in Massachusetts and would like to do something with this.
Joedes
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I assume for starters all questions come from the view point of what would I do if this tree were mine? If this tree were mine I would not hesitate in removing the left branch, leaving a significant portion of it for a good sized Jin then letting the tree develop further till I can see to remove something else. Developing Mugo Pines for bonsai in the beginning is always a process of elimination. This has to be done carefully and intelligently. If you remove too much at any one time you can kill the tree. There is no doubt that you will not have a very attractive tree at this point but you will have a better piece of raw material to work with that has a future.
 
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Vance:
I was think along the lines of a raft. Comments please.
Joedes
I really don't see how a raft could be an option here. When it comes to Mugos I seldom put a title on which style I plan on shooting for. In fact I seldom have a preset idea on any particular style at all other than a really old and demented tree---and yes I said demented. Think tree Daniel San. In my experience I have found any attempt to force a Mugo into any one particular form usually ends in boredom or disaster. Give the tree time to express itself. As you see things happening you can help it along. I don't know if any of this makes sense to anyone but me and most people think I'm nuts any way, but that's the way I look at things. Very seldom do I find a Mugo that cries out for anything. You have to remember this is a tree that makes its living by being adaptable. It grows in so many ways and directions and has so many branches and trunks and needles and junk and knuckles and crap your problem is getting a feel for the tree and what it might do. If you force it, it will rebel. But; once you start to see a direction go for it all at once if it does not envolve removing more than 60% of the tree at any one time in which case you cut/chop and grow.
 
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