Acer palmatum

But my proposed front would probably be this or this:
DSC_0219 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
DSC_0221 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr

.

I do not like the second front offered. That bulbous root just seems out of proportion as it stands. I like the first front.

Very nice tree with a lot of potential. Great job on it.
 
I still think that the branch (X) inside the curve could be removed.

I would replace it with what looks like a backbranch (2).

I would also cut off the branch that goes to the back (3) : all the lower ones are very thin, this will look awkward. If you leave a stub, new buds will appear, select the one that is in the best direction, and that will be good.

And I would remove all the wires, and let the top grow freely until next spring.

It's a very flat rendition, but new buds are very likely to pop out in (2) or (3) if the tree is healthy so you can select "perspective" branches.

My 2 €cents...

View attachment 245553

Hello

Bear in mind the pics above. That pic you chose, it’s older. I only used it in answer to Rob about a front.
The inside curve branch has been removed + your branch 2 is a line in the brick wall, not a branch.

I’ve only done light clean up to redirect energy, it’ll mostly be left to grow, regain strength but also thickening.
It has no primaries, so all are thin. I’ll be leaving all to grow so I can build some primaries.
Thanks for your info
 
your primary branches are the first branches that emerge from the trunk or the apex.at this point its a good idea to just let everything grow out unchecked a few months maybe for remainder of season and edit in autumn.
but what i would do is lightly wire the primarys so they ascend up n out, without any crossing. tips upturned to the light. they will develop faster.
 
up n out, no crossing
 

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your primary branches are the first branches that emerge from the trunk or the apex.at this point its a good idea to just let everything grow out unchecked a few months maybe for remainder of season and edit in autumn.
but what i would do is lightly wire the primarys so they ascend up n out, without any crossing. tips upturned to the light. they will develop faster.

That’s what I’ve done :)
The weight of the branches is dropping them down though. But they’ve got movement in them! That’s for damn sure :)
 
Maple has been fried a good bit this season, we had a few heat waves from out of no where, earlier on in spring (with another very hot week this week), so leaves are worse for wear. I should have protected better, I thought I was...
ALso left some wire on too long and has cut in a lot but mostly the branch will be cut off any way. Some branches were at right thickness to remove, with a few left long till they are ready.

DSC_0632 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
DSC_0633 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
DSC_0638 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr

This is currently a very ugly tree, load of pruning scars all over, leaves like crap, unshapely.. Its hopefully, the ugliest it will ever look.. its upwards from here. Few branches needing the right thickness then cut and I'll have some bones ready for developing.
 
Its hopefully, the ugliest it will ever look.

:D

As long as you can see the future of this tree, it's all right. I like bonsai with a lot to be done, I'm sure this ugly duckling will turn into a magnificent swan one day. It seems it's in good hands.
 
Maple has been pretty well ravaged by the weather, I don’t expect much from it for now. It may well bud from the heavy branches I removed, it’s only been a week so I’m hoping this will happen.

It’s strong and healthy in its roots, just it’s leaves badly damaged so won’t be photosynthesising well.

56CDB4C4-1B23-4910-B6E0-388D3C63FAE5.jpeg60319124-8908-49DF-986C-D5B0CD5A9671.jpeg248422A5-7BFF-4D6A-8861-B2D9B943094D.jpeg
 
Get some rhizotonic by canna I think this maybe a root problem

Really? I wasn't thinking it was anything more than normal leave damage from weather..
Bear in mind, the roots are well developed and filling the pot. It needs repotting. I think Rhizo is for developing roots, not solving any problems in the roots?
I have to start changing watering habits a bit with it, due to how full up the substrate is, with roots.
 
Really? I wasn't thinking it was anything more than normal leave damage from weather..
Bear in mind, the roots are well developed and filling the pot. It needs repotting. I think Rhizo is for developing roots, not solving any problems in the roots?
I have to start changing watering habits a bit with it, due to how full up the substrate is, with roots.
Sorry but The reason the leaves have dried out is because the roots aren't supplying them with enough water so yeah I would say it's a root issue.
I live in the uk too and have had the same weather as you and my acers are loving the sun this year. I think maybe the roots are in need of barerooting next spring or there just not in the condition you think they are in.
Rhizotonic and cannazym are brilliant for struggling trees caused by root issues trust me it's not a root disease you have it's more than likely a lack of the right conditions or lack of quality roots. give the canna stuff a go and in spring bareroot the tree and put it in a more open soil mix next spring looks like you have it in a small particle mix that would be fine on a more established tree but one in development put it in a more open mix then put a decent top layer of akadama on top
 
Thats fine. It conflicts with advice given about the species from others (bearing in mind different climates etc, its been taken in to account), so its just a difference of experience and/or opinion.
The rhizotonic stuff said it was for developing roots, not fixing any particular problems but I'm happy to try any way.

It is in need of repotting next spring, that much I know. It will have been 3 years, its done well. Ill buy that stuff now and try, Id heard about it a while ago from Harry Harryington, but again, more for collected trees needing to develop roots, whereas this is in a different situation but happy to go off your recommendation :).

I have a mix I have settled on now, which is not what it is in. My mix is a mix of slightly larger particle size, a small particle size and small percentage of pine bark. So it will go in that next spring. I dont tend to do akadama, don't want to get on that train, as there may be no getting off it!
 
wouldnt over complicate things. probably just got a little dry in the heat Conar....remember me commenting on how dry some of your pots were when i dropped off the hornbeam? if i'd let mine get that dry for even a day, the result would be the same. one of my hornbeams looks terrible at this point, i even decided to slip pot it into a deeper pot.
fwiw i dont really even bother with rhizo/canna anymore. sea weed n fish is all you really need in addition to regular fertilisation. dont waste your money
 
In the 90F plus weather we had recently I watered 2-3 times a day. If you get the right mix it's impossible to over water but Acers, Hornbeam, Crabapple, potentilla and Birch really can't stand dry conditions. Is your place sheltered from wind - that + heat can really mess maples up.

" My mix is a mix of slightly larger particle size, a small particle size and small percentage of pine bark." Mixing particle size isn't a good idea - the smaller particles fill in the gaps between the larger, reducing oxygen pockets between them.
 
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+1 on what @BobbyLane said

some of my healthy maples looked exactly like yours after 5 consecutive days of +30C (86F)

A shade cloth saved my trees leaves this year - they are all looking better because of it.


never trust a person who says:


😂😜

surprisingly, all the acers i purchased from garden centres or tree nurseries are all thriving, but they werent bare rooted, they were repotted into free draining soil with some old soil retained. the sango kaku went into a shallow pot. they are doing really well, even better than a couple of my hornbeams. i have a bit of organics in my mixes for the maples and i think its helped them to adjust. a little leaf tip burn on one or two branches here n there but nothing like above. i wasnt sure i could keep maples on my balcony, which becomes a hot box in the summer, but now im convinced they can work.
i sold a good trident over the winter because it seemed to really struggle in my micro climate
 
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Thats fine. It conflicts with advice given about the species from others (bearing in mind different climates etc, its been taken in to account), so its just a difference of experience and/or opinion.
The rhizotonic stuff said it was for developing roots, not fixing any particular problems but I'm happy to try any way.

It is in need of repotting next spring, that much I know. It will have been 3 years, its done well. Ill buy that stuff now and try, Id heard about it a while ago from Harry Harryington, but again, more for collected trees needing to develop roots, whereas this is in a different situation but happy to go off your recommendation :).

I have a mix I have settled on now, which is not what it is in. My mix is a mix of slightly larger particle size, a small particle size and small percentage of pine bark. So it will go in that next spring. I dont tend to do akadama, don't want to get on that train, as there may be no getting off it!
Only use akadama as a top dressing only a thin layer it wont effect the substraight below it ut will help keep moisture I'm if your using a more open mix
 
+1 on what @BobbyLane said

some of my healthy maples looked exactly like yours after 5 consecutive days of +30C (86F)

A shade cloth saved my trees leaves this year - they are all looking better because of it.


never trust a person who says:


😂😜
Add another vote for shade cloth, Maples are loving it this year, leaf color is improved, much deeper green.
 

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Shade cloth is plan for next year.

My current mix is free draining (not the new mix, although that should be too. I appreciate your post @Paulpash on the particle size. I could easily separate them from my mix.). My mixes before the new, are all 100% inorganic. I’ve always been happy with their drainage.

I do tend to water accurately.. I can increase frequency a bit though. I’ve always been happy with the fact I can’t over water my mix. Big reason for using it.
The maple hasn’t had any consistency yet.. all it’s growth this year was after a major prune then another one. It’s been under constant work so it may just not been strong enough to with stand the weather.
All it took was for me to leave in the wrong place for the wrong few days this season, and that’s it. Leaves trashed.

I’ll work out this whole Acer P stuff one year... maybe not this year..
 
Shade cloth is plan for next year.

My current mix is free draining (not the new mix, although that should be too. I appreciate your post @Paulpash on the particle size. I could easily separate them from my mix.). My mixes before the new, are all 100% inorganic. I’ve always been happy with their drainage.

I do tend to water accurately.. I can increase frequency a bit though. I’ve always been happy with the fact I can’t over water my mix. Big reason for using it.
The maple hasn’t had any consistency yet.. all it’s growth this year was after a major prune then another one. It’s been under constant work so it may just not been strong enough to with stand the weather.
All it took was for me to leave in the wrong place for the wrong few days this season, and that’s it. Leaves trashed.

I’ll work out this whole Acer P stuff one year... maybe not this year..

It'll be interesting to see the results of your shade cloth experiment - I'm always struggling to find more sun for my trees up North. Is your garden totally free of overhanging trees?
 
It'll be interesting to see the results of your shade cloth experiment - I'm always struggling to find more sun for my trees up North. Is your garden totally free of overhanging trees?

I just find it so hard to believe that the sensitive leaves of my Acer P would thrive in full sun, providing I supplied enough water. Seems so hard to believe! I’m interested to see in future. The shade cloth I think would help a lot.

Take a look at my garden.
May want to click on the pic to zoom, then pan across. 1 pic is from foot of the garden, next is further in the middle.

 
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