Acer palmatum

[ConorDash]

Conor, with the components, particle sizes and pot shape you are using, you may well find that the top layer of the pot dries out when there's still a lot of water being held in the bottom. Using a more consistent particle size (not the fine grained stuff in a pot that size) may help you in future.

Ok good to know. The grain size of this one, I would say is more smaller/medium size. This one has a consistant size too. This is actually the tesco cat litter (its now no longer available but a lot of my trees are in it).
Going forward, im using the medium sized kaizen clay fired granules.

Here a bit of a back budding on the maple. I hope to see more soon, as I have made 2 larger branch removals, a few weeks ago
DSC_0700 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
DSC_0701 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr

Horrible wire scar on that first pic too.. Really kicking myself, I did check frequent enough. Im hoping it will go away in time.

 

[AlainK]

Im hoping it will go away in time.

I presume this branch could be pruned to the first couple of knots, next spring or so.

If it's the leader, it will get unnoticed, especially if the top of the tree ends in a broom-shape with a lot of leaves. The shorter the ection with a scar, the less conspicuous in the end.

But yes, it can take years to have such scars disappear...

 

[Ingvill]

@ConorDash I am using about 50 % akadama, 25% kiryu (river rocks) and 25% pumice for my maples.
They are in training boxes, not small bonsai pots.
I water once a day during the active growing season, without checking soil at all.
During early spring and late autumn I water less, but I do check the soil every two days, especially if its windy weather.

(As akadama breaks down over time, this may change the trees watering needs)

The maples I bought this year, that are still in 100 % gardening soil, need less watering.
So I just check it every other day and water whenever its needed.

 

[Drew]

Watering, @Drew thats my technique, colour, finger in the substrate, I did like to think I was quite good at measuring moisture needs, by now, with that method.
However perhaps I am but simply I believe incorrectly in that it needs watering more, or less, than I think.
What’s your substrate recommendation? Inorganics, particule size?

Conor, I should also add I also check my local weather each morning and adjust watering accordingly. The substrate for my maples varies slightly but they all have Akadama in it the smaller pots have 100% akadama and other bigger pots have 60/40 or 70/30 akadama/sanicat Pink or Pumice. (I don't use tescos cat litter) I've taken a few picks this morning give you a better idea of what I'm talking about.

These are in full sun from around 8ish till around 6pm:


This one on the right is in 70/30 Akadama/Sanicat with a covering of moss. The canopy does provide shade for the soil so I usually water once a day before work but if its sunny 25 degrees and above (and or windy) I usually give them another water when I get home at 5ish. If its over 30 degrees i'll set my water timer to water them at around 1pm so they dont dry out before I get home.




The one on the left is pretty much the same:

 

[Drew]

These other smaller ones get sun from sunrise till about 1/2pm in the afternoon. They are all in 100 Akadama with moss on top:



This one dries out faster than all the others as the pots too small for the trees woody rootball, so it needs watering twice daily most days:




These next two are smaller with shallower pots. This one only needs watering once in the morning:


This one may need a second water on a hot or windy day:




The rest of these are just seedlings I'm making negari out of, they are in old re-used soil. They only need watering once a day as well:


I have loads of other trees that have varying watering needs but my point is whatever substrate they are in/location in your garden each tree is different so you need to learn for yourself how best to look after them.

Hope this helps a little Conor.

 

[Drew]

Also... Graham Potter has just done a youtube video for the first time in ages and talks about watering. If no one else listen to this guy!

 

[ConorDash]

Also... Graham Potter has just done a youtube video for the first time in ages and talks about watering. If no one else listen to this guy!

Oh i didn’t see him put out a new vid. It’s been a while.. I’ve watched all of his previous, repeatedly.

Yes your posts were very helpful and I appreciate the time and effort you put in to them, Info and pics.

It seems abundantly clear that my maple is suffering from more than just weather. I’m re-evaluating my watering of it, watering more.
It’s in 100% inorganic clay fired granulates, the Tesco cat litter (no longer available). It’s a good substitute for akadama, many have used and highly recommended. It’s been in it 3 years so the need to bareroot and repot is certainly there. Water doesn’t drain through as well anymore. I’ll water more frequently and thoroughly, till I can repot next spring.

Next pot substrate is planned to be the medium clay granules from Kaizen,

Moler Medium Grain (Biozorb/Terramol/Danish Pink) Bonsai Soil Growing Media

Moler Medium Grain (Biozorb/Terramol/Danish Pink) Bonsai Soil Growing Media Biosorb - Ultrazorb - Danish Pink are all aliases of this wonderful product 3-8mm mesh graded to produce an approximate particle size close to this range Guaranteed safe for horticultural use (unlike some cat litter...

www.kaizenbonsai.com

And about 20% of pine bark, from Kaizen.

My hope is, this will work.
I’ve plenty of time so I could even buy a bit of pumice and akadama just for the maple but I’d prefer to go with my plan, as I want to apply to all. I’d prefer all being in the same substrate.

Wonderfully green trees you have, also look like they are great bonsai, from the few pics.
I’ve not seen your name around enough, you don’t strike me as a beginner that’s for sure!
Thanks for your advice.

Not a whole lot I can do for my maple now, just watering correctly, fert. It’s got buds so with any luck I can help those leaves stay healthy and green but we will see!

 

[BrightsideB]

Any advice on what this is? It is on a koto no ito.

 

[AlainK]

Fungus. Too wet, check the soil.

In my opinion, not for bonsai.

It's a wonderful tree, so delicate.

Better to be kept as some call a "patio plant" : the leaves are very thin, difficult to make "pads" to enhance the distribution of branches.

I have one, my goal is to keep it as healthy as possible so the leaves don't get dry because of the heat waves that are more and more frequent here. So far, we've avoided hail storms, cross my fingers.

 

[0soyoung]

Nevertheless, I agree with this

In my opinion, not for bonsai.
It's a wonderful tree, so delicate.
Better to be kept as some call a "patio plant" : the leaves are very thin, difficult to make "pads" to enhance the distribution of branches.

and it is a marvelous yellow in fall as I recall.

 

[Cattwooduk]

It seems abundantly clear that my maple is suffering from more than just weather. I’m re-evaluating my watering of it, watering more.

If water isn't draining through as well anymore and is being retained in the soil, I would be careful about increasing how much you water! Worst thing you could do now is to start to rot the roots in the pot, if this guy has had a tough time this year at the top, messing up the bottom could REALLY set it back.

 

[Forrestford]

About 6-8 weeks. No bottom heat. Seed tray & clear propagation lid to keep up humidity. PAL mix 1:1:1. Sprayed with hydrogen peroxide twice a week during the early stages. Just dappled shade while they pushed leaves. They are now fully exposed to the elements. Arakawa is one of the most sun tolerant Acers for bonsai but the Deshojos are in back and get shade. They have always rooted after Arakawa and aren't as vigorous.

The hydorgen peroxide was for mold?

 

[Paulpash]

The hydorgen peroxide was for mold?

Yes, essentially. To stop fungal infection.

 

[ConorDash]

Well, I knew the maple would only look worse and worse till the leaves fell. Still quite dismaying to see how crap it looks now.
I also think some of the new buds emerging, do not look good either...

On the positive, at least I got some primary branches growing before things went badly again.
Next spring its getting repotted and with any luck, remove whatever problem it may have. Hopefully it has the strength to continue.

17/08:
DSC_0739 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr

01/09:
DSC_0792 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
DSC_0793 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
DSC_0795 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
DSC_0796 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr

 

[AlainK]

What's the soil like ? I mean, is it 100% inorganic of some sort ?

I think it has something to do with the roots not getting, or being able to, get enough nutrients, and oxygen.

 

[ConorDash]

What's the soil like ? I mean, is it 100% inorganic of some sort ?

I think it has something to do with the roots not getting, or being able to, get enough nutrients, and oxygen.

Yes the substrate is 100% inorganic clay fired granules. Its what a good few of my other trees are in, and was a well used and popular substrate, before it go discontinued.
It got a load of organic fert pellets on top, 3 doses of them since Spring started, so it should have been rich in nutrients (and I doubt over doing it as its so inorganic, the fert won't hang around much).
Yes, its been said that it may be a root problem. I was always quite confident I watered enough, always till the water ran out of the bottom... But clearly there was a problem. I may never know if this was my own doing or just some other force of nature.
A repot next spring will hopefully be saving grace.

 

[ConorDash]

At least there is a small bit of hope... Although these leaves will quickly decline and die because of the cold weather is truly here now.
Nothing I can really do to help them or save energy in the tree, is there?

DSC_0839 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
DSC_0840 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr

 

[AlainK]

At least there is a small bit of hope... Although these leaves will quickly decline and die because of the cold weather is truly here now.
Nothing I can really do to help them or save energy in the tree, is there?

There's hope. don't take what I will say for granted, but I'd cut off all the branches/twigs with no new flush, not too close to the base, and spread with a mild mix of bordeaux mix to keep fungal attacks off.

" cold weather is truly here now" : we're going to have 30°C in the afternoon this weekend (9-10° at night). We're not that far, maybe you should check the weather reports, it's much more than was forecast two days ago. In any case, put it in a well-lit place, away from winds, against a wall, And if it rains, keep the leaves dry (under some protection) and don't overwater the soil. Well, that's what I would do...

 

[JudyB]

Sounds like your weather isn't really cold enough to give new growth a problem. If you are 6 weeks from frost (if you get frosts there) then the new growth will have some time to harden off. Maybe think about your protection scheme for overwintering and step it up if necessary. Hope it pulls thru for you.

 

[ConorDash]

Sounds like your weather isn't really cold enough to give new growth a problem. If you are 6 weeks from frost (if you get frosts there) then the new growth will have some time to harden off. Maybe think about your protection scheme for overwintering and step it up if necessary. Hope it pulls thru for you.

Sure, yes I don’t believe freeze is here yet. Just thinking ahead, there’s not much more good weather ahead.

My overwintering is putting in sheltered ingested accommodation. Hopefully that’s enough for the tree to build strength.

I don’t think the tree is at “hope it pulls through” status. I believe the tree has built strength and not expended it. It’s been in this pot for 2-3 years. It’s roots should be strong.

There's hope. don't take what I will say for granted, but I'd cut off all the branches/twigs with no new flush, not too close to the base, and spread with a mild mix of bordeaux mix to keep fungal attacks off.

" cold weather is truly here now" : we're going to have 30°C in the afternoon this weekend (9-10° at night). We're not that far, maybe you should check the weather reports, it's much more than was forecast two days ago. In any case, put it in a well-lit place, away from winds, against a wall, And if it rains, keep the leaves dry (under some protection) and don't overwater the soil. Well, that's what I would do...

It’s primary branches it’s built this year are good, are desirable. I see no need to set myself back again and cut off. What benefit would there be in cutting off growth that’s already achieved?