Acer palmatum

[petegreg]

This guy is looking great now.. really fast growth.
Some bigger leaves, which actually have different shaped lobes than previous.. maybe still just bit of deformation but I’m not worried. Looking good! Time to grow.

Still not putting back in sun yet. Maybe once our heat cools down a bit.

View attachment 202019View attachment 202020View attachment 202021

You see, good care, good job.

 

[ConorDash]

You see, good care, good job.

Cheers.

I guess name of game is grow. I’ll hsve to figure out when to cut again though. According to Smoke’s advice in this thread, I should keep up with pruning.. not necessarily let it grow a lot, cut a lot... maybe 2 different approaches.

 

[petegreg]

Cheers.

I guess name of game is grow. I’ll hsve to figure out when to cut again though. According to Smoke’s advice in this thread, I should keep up with pruning.. not necessarily let it grow a lot, cut a lot... maybe 2 different approaches.

I guess same, till spring. You can have a portions of the tree you need to let grow longer and thicker, depending on desired design. For the rest of the tree, for next growing season, I would follow Smoke's approach. The tree looks good after chopping, Why not to let it be this year to gain some energy and prepare for overwintering?

 

[ConorDash]

I guess same, till spring. You can have a portions of the tree you need to let grow longer and thicker, depending on desired design. For the rest of the tree, for next growing season, I would follow Smoke's approach. The tree looks good after chopping, Why not to let it be this year to gain some energy and prepare for overwintering?

I will do.
2 branches have not got any leaves on yet. One is the branch coming from lower down the trunk, which I did want to keep as I saw it looking really well in the final design but.. we will see. No leaves yet, so might die back but there’s still time. Hopefully they get some growth to safe the whole branch.

 

[Bananaman]

I will do.
2 branches have not got any leaves on yet. One is the branch coming from lower down the trunk, which I did want to keep as I saw it looking really well in the final design but.. we will see. No leaves yet, so might die back but there’s still time. Hopefully they get some growth to safe the whole branch.

Don't cut anything. This tree is definitely not out of the woods yet. I say; it still is in fungus mode and is not well yet. You should not have clusters of very small disfigured leaves coming out. Your tree is not growing meristems nor petioles and it will die if not fixed. Its vigor is about used up.

 

[ConorDash]

Don't cut anything. This tree is definitely not out of the woods yet. I say; it still is in fungus mode and is not well yet. You should not have clusters of very small disfigured leaves coming out. Your tree is not growing meristems nor petioles and it will die if not fixed. Its vigor is about used up.

That’s fine, I wasn’t planning to prune again so soon. Hopefully the small clusters of bad leaves were what others said, simply first flush after heavy pruning and it can happen.

Either way, it’s getting better and better each day, ill not touch it

 

[ConorDash]

I c

Look on the fungicide label, you should find a group number. Every fungicide with the same number acts on the fungus in the same way. Even if you use 10 different brands or active ingredients if the group number is the same you are not really rotating. The idea behind rotating is that if a pest gets resistant to one group number you can keep it from getting dominant by reducing its population back down with another group number. That way the resistant genes can be diluted. Rotation and not using too lite a dose are your best defences against resistance. Two different group numbers are sufficient, though more is better.

Hope that helps.

i could not for the life of me find any group numbers.. there are random numbers on the box like:
MAPP 16672
The other one has: MAPP18321 and LB10602 46

But according to google there should be group numbers from 1-11 or so...

I checked the contents of the 2 fungicides, their long scientific ingredients are on the fungicide group contents but they do not match each other. So either I’m wrong or luckily they are both different.
They both contain different ingredients.

 

[taylor schaffner]

Here is my maple ? one is dead this one is on life support reported in Seagum moss saw a few new leaves ? hope for the best

 

[ConorDash]

So my maple is still growing very well at the moment..



Has 2 branches which I did want to keep, especially the lower one which people dislike lol, but as you can see from these next 2 pics, I think they will dieback, no growth in them.



Unfortunately.

There’s also this branch which has just pushed out its fresh new growth which looks good, awaiting extension though.

 

[petegreg]

Perfect.

... Have 2 branches which I did want to keep, especially the lower one which people dislike lol, but as you can see from these next 2 pics, I think they will dieback, no growth in them.

Unfortunately.

But as you can see those branches have or might have some replacement growth from branch collars that you can keep and grow.

 

[ConorDash]

Perfect.


But as you can see those branches have or might have some replacement growth from branch collars that you can keep and grow.

Perhaps, but it has tried.. pics not close enough but there is Black growth around a few collars where it tried and failed. Maybe it’ll push new growth again through but it’s a ticking clock at the moment as I can see the branch getting discoloured from dieback.
We shall see but to be honest I’m fine with it.

I’ll regrow whatever I need, the branches were probably too long and not good taper or movement in them any way

 

[petegreg]

View attachment 203831

Conor, if the branch is this dead and there's no node you can simply remove it, cut it flush and seal and there's a good chance to get some new buds from the same node nearby next spring.

 

[Mellow Mullet]

So my maple is still growing very well at the moment..

View attachment 203828View attachment 203829

Has 2 branches which I did want to keep, especially the lower one which people dislike lol, but as you can see from these next 2 pics, I think they will dieback, no growth in them.

View attachment 203830View attachment 203831

Unfortunately.

There’s also this branch which has just pushed out its fresh new growth which looks good, awaiting extension though.

View attachment 203832

Connor,

If it was me, I would remove those two dead/dying branches, it looks to me that you have anthracose or verticulum wilt or maybe both. It can be stopped if it is only affecting the leaves, but once it enters the wood, it is usually a death sentence for the tree. Check this article out on my website: http://www.heartofdixiebonsai.com/c...9-blog-post/33-a-is-for-anthracose?Itemid=101 , it has pictures of a maple that fell victim to these fungi. I happened fast, in about a month once the blackness started. We had it real bad last year, I lost several nice trees, including a really large trident that I chopped way back (like yours) and a large sangu kaku going in the landscape. The trident behaved just like yours, all of the initial growth turned black on the ends and died, every time it tried to come out, same thing, until it was spent. Its demise is somewhat chronicled here at the end of this thread: https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/one-for-smoke-trident-chop.17125/page-5

 

[ConorDash]

Conor, if the branch is this dead and there's no node you can simply remove it, cut it flush and seal and there's a good chance to get some new buds from the same node nearby next spring.

I think I will do. I gives me no signs that it will put out new growth on those branches to save them and I might as well cut now so the wounds can heal. One of them is from the nice grey bark, so it will be a shame to scan it but its not very big so hopefully in the coming years it will be completely gone.

Connor,

If it was me, I would remove those two dead/dying branches, it looks to me that you have anthracose or verticulum wilt or maybe both. It can be stopped if it is only affecting the leaves, but once it enters the wood, it is usually a death sentence for the tree. Check this article out on my website: http://www.heartofdixiebonsai.com/c...9-blog-post/33-a-is-for-anthracose?Itemid=101 , it has pictures of a maple that fell victim to these fungi. I happened fast, in about a month once the blackness started. We had it real bad last year, I lost several nice trees, including a really large trident that I chopped way back (like yours) and a large sangu kaku going in the landscape. The trident behaved just like yours, all of the initial growth turned black on the ends and died, every time it tried to come out, same thing, until it was spent. Its demise is somewhat chronicled here at the end of this thread: https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/one-for-smoke-trident-chop.17125/page-5

I know of the disease's. I understand but I think this is just dieback. Everything points to that and its normal. The fungucide has been applied well, so i dont have any reasons to get worked up or make a rash decision due to that kind of extreme.
HOWEVER, it would seem there will be no growth and they will die off in any case, so I will remove them tomorrow. Thanks though

 

[ConorDash]

Just a few better quality pics of the canopy, nice leaves. Some still deformed but I'm not concerned. I believe this is simply a reaction to the large stress put on it and it currently trying to normalise and steady itself.

DSC_0062 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
DSC_0063 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr

 

[ajm55555]

it looks to me that you have anthracose or verticulum wilt or maybe both

It should not be Verticillium wilt. Verticillium enters the plant usually through cuts in the roots into the vascular system of the plant. It doesn't start from cuts in the trunk, from what I know. More on Wikipedia.

 

[0soyoung]

It should not be Verticillium wilt. Verticillium enters the plant usually through cuts in the roots into the vascular system of the plant. It doesn't start from cuts in the trunk, from what I know. More on Wikipedia.

Verticillium gets into the xylem (wood), so it progresses upward, not down.
It's growth rate slows so rapidly at temperatures above 25C that it is essentially dormant. Hence it is a disease of cool spring time, not one that affects trees in the heat of summer.

 

[Mellow Mullet]

It should not be Verticillium wilt. Verticillium enters the plant usually through cuts in the roots into the vascular system of the plant. It doesn't start from cuts in the trunk, from what I know. More on Wikipedia.

Did you look at my pictures? Wikipedia, really?

 

[Mellow Mullet]

I think I will do. I gives me no signs that it will put out new growth on those branches to save them and I might as well cut now so the wounds can heal. One of them is from the nice grey bark, so it will be a shame to scan it but its not very big so hopefully in the coming years it will be completely gone.



I know of the disease's. I understand but I think this is just dieback. Everything points to that and its normal. The fungucide has been applied well, so i dont have any reasons to get worked up or make a rash decision due to that kind of extreme.
HOWEVER, it would seem there will be no growth and they will die off in any case, so I will remove them tomorrow. Thanks though

OK, just trying to help. Fighting in the same trenches, just sharing some strategy.

 

[ConorDash]

OK, just trying to help. Fighting in the same trenches, just sharing some strategy.

No no, of course. I appreciate it. Just I try to “fight back” in a manner of speaking. It’s not against you though, it’s against the probability of an outcome.
And my reason for it is anxiety!! Lol. I don’t want to get masses of worry over something if I strongly believe it’s not true. Usually there are 10s of possibilities. If I worry about them all I’d be a nervous wreck! Lol.

But in any case, I learnt some good stuff about the disease from:

Verticillium gets into the xylem (wood), so it progresses upward, not down.
It's growth rate slows so rapidly at temperatures above 25C that it is essentially dormant. Hence it is a disease of cool spring time, not one that affects trees in the heat of summer.

So I think we all win here . Very good to know thanks 0so, and @ajm55555