leatherback
The Treedeemer
I think that even if it looks man-made initially, in a decade or so it will have gained age and patina and I think it will look very natural.
My 2p.
Acer palmatum beni tsukasa (from cutting)
- Thread starter clem
- Start date
My 2p.
leatherback
The Treedeemer
Lovely tree. It is know who did the initial styling?
stu929
Shohin
Beautiful japanese maple from the Phipps Conservatory. I couldn't find a tag but none of the large maples they had were close to straight.
Love the progression. Want to see how this ends up. I'm just starting and long term progression threads are very helpful to me.
Love the progression. Want to see how this ends up. I'm just starting and long term progression threads are very helpful to me.
Attachments
b3bowen
Mame
Skye325
Seedling
Awesome job! Thanks for sharing!
clem
Chumono
In the same style, i've found a shishigashira japanese maple with pronounced curves in the famous Omiya Bonsai Museum in Japan (from a youtube video) ->
clem
Chumono
Today, i removed the ground of the nebari, to look at it and eventually to order young cuttings if the nebari lack of roots (in order to make thread grafts eventually).
The front nebari is nice, thanks to my palmatum cuttings producer (his knowledge and experience allows to produce palmatum cuttings with a lot of roots -> good nebari) ->
The back side of the nebari isn't as good as the front nebari, but i don't think it will need graftings to improve, because there are already roots emerging at the right places (white arrows) so i just plan to cut the roots under those surface roots to stimulate their growth and thickening (white arrows) during next spring ->
i can't wait to be next spring to repot this tree and raise its nebari to make it more visible
The front nebari is nice, thanks to my palmatum cuttings producer (his knowledge and experience allows to produce palmatum cuttings with a lot of roots -> good nebari) ->
The back side of the nebari isn't as good as the front nebari, but i don't think it will need graftings to improve, because there are already roots emerging at the right places (white arrows) so i just plan to cut the roots under those surface roots to stimulate their growth and thickening (white arrows) during next spring ->
i can't wait to be next spring to repot this tree and raise its nebari to make it more visible
BobbyLane
Imperial Masterpiece
Looks awesome, great job. how long did you say you've been doing bonsai again?
the low hanging, ground hugging branches look very convincing, im inspired now to try this on a Hornbeam i have. are you going to try to root any of those?
the low hanging, ground hugging branches look very convincing, im inspired now to try this on a Hornbeam i have. are you going to try to root any of those?
clem
Chumono
i do Bonsai since 1990 , it is my friend and neighbor who began doing Bonsai so i tried too (it was the beginng of Bonsai in France when everybody thought it was easy and every Bonsai died, even the imported Bonsai in "pro" nursery because nobody knew how to grow them)Looks awesome, great job. how long did you say you've been doing bonsai again?
the low hanging, ground hugging branches look very convincing, im inspired now to try this on a Hornbeam i have. are you going to try to root any of those?
Here is a pic of my Bonsai (boxwood) in 1993 : i used to cultivate them in the shade in a barn = not good at all) so none of those trees survived ->
I cultivate more correctly my trees since 5 years, thanks to forums advises, youtube videos and magasines. To cultivate correctly and to keep the tree alive/healthy is the main task of Bonsai for me !! I killed so many trees
Concerning the hanging right branch, your idea to make it root in the soil is interesting.. I'm sure this branch will fall down on the soil, and then bounce back to go up again (like the famous oak tree) but i dunno if it will root by itself or if i will make it root (but it is an interesting idea) ->
This would be worthy getting cuttings from, usually JM dont exceed 150 years in age afaik
BobbyLane
Imperial Masterpiece
ah i see from 1990, i did remember you saying 5 years somewhere so makes sense.
yeh the deciduous trees will route low hanging branches often.
i ofen get hornbeams where there the low branches had produced roots, the low branches on these had sent out roots before i bought them
yeh the deciduous trees will route low hanging branches often.
i ofen get hornbeams where there the low branches had produced roots, the low branches on these had sent out roots before i bought them
Attachments
Arlithrien
Shohin
Impressive growth, and your vision for an old weeping oak has been shaping up nicely.
clem
Chumono
the tree on the right has already a great base & nebari
Going really great, you make it look easy
.Can I ask, the cut back. Why not cut them back completely to the desired place? Have you let them longer to continue thickening, or just cut back for back budding? But if all you want is back budding, why not prune the branches back fully to where you want, now? They dont look like they need thickening anymore, if that was the goal, in my opinion.
Really lovely looking roots under that substrate. Well done, clearly all you are doing, is working.
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Grovic
Mame
That's one sweet nebari, love the tree.
clem
Chumono
thank you.Going really great, you make it look easy
Can I ask, the cut back. As you've still left the branches long for more sacrifice, why not, not prune them at all? So they would thicken faster, although perhaps you cut back to still get slow thickening (if thats what you are aiming for, I dont think its needed) but also get back budding? But if all you want is back budding, why not prune the branches back fully to where you want, now?
Really lovely looking roots under that substrate. Well done, clearly all you are doing, is working.
I answer to your question, if i understood correctly.
I plan to let the primary branches grow more this year and maybe next year. And when the diameter is enough, i plan to cut them and do clip&grow to get better movement (to remove the repetitive sinusoid curves) and to get branches with taper/conicity. The small secondary branches are now inhibited by the terminal buds of the primary branches and the shadow of the leaves in summer... but as soon as the primary branche will be cut, the terminal buds of the small secondary branches will recieve all the sapp of the main branch.. so they will grow very much and they will thicken very quick. Those young secondary branches will quick become quite thick in a few years, that's why i want the primary branches to thicken more before to cut. The small secondary branches will quickly catch up with their thickness. What i don't know is whether to cut in 1 time directly or to cut by steps above the secondary branches, in order to not let the sapp go too quick too much inside those secondary branche and get very long inter-nodes. Never donne that before so i dunno what's the best option. i think i will cut by step reducing the main primary branche slowly (?)
BobbyLane
Imperial Masterpiece
i will try it and post the tree in another thread. i think if one could get a branch to root, it will also thicken up considerably faster, im going to try it on a spindly low branch that is sort of off to the rear.
its common on old trees in the wild, heavy low branches often hit the soil, root and continue to rise back up. its something ive always wanted to try.
clem
Chumono
Not sure but the risk is maybe to get a reverse taper on the branche downstream the roots, as the roots will make the branche thicken downstream ?
BobbyLane
Imperial Masterpiece
here is a closer look at the hornbeam i posted above. it was deeper, which had caused the branch to root.
i wouldnt really be worried about any bulges at the soil line tbh, anyway this demonstrates its possible on carps
there were more roots coming off the base of that branch that i cut off to make it more presentable.
im not keeping this one, in fact its already been sold but had i kept it i would of used a pot wide enough to run the branch on the soil line.
this would also give the tree an illusion of a wider base.
i wouldnt really be worried about any bulges at the soil line tbh, anyway this demonstrates its possible on carps
there were more roots coming off the base of that branch that i cut off to make it more presentable.
im not keeping this one, in fact its already been sold but had i kept it i would of used a pot wide enough to run the branch on the soil line.
this would also give the tree an illusion of a wider base.
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