Abandoned Midwestern Farm Scene (Saikei)

This is looking good!
This may seem a dumb question but why not make your fence with wood?!!
Check out this Peter Chan video :-
I also like the feeling of wood, and I plan to use some in my future penjing. But,...I think that if you think ahead, wood pieces will be "lost" as time goes by (unless you "protect" them and continue protecting them in the future).
So I think I prefer a reasonable "fake" fence for now....
 
This is looking good!
This may seem a dumb question but why not make your fence with wood?!!
Check out this Peter Chan video :-
Unless the Wood/grain would be from a “bonsai” tree.... wood won’t satisfy visual scale, also.

And you have so many rot issues to worry about.

Also, using this reasoning.. i should have made the BARN out of wood... and it is important to show INTENT.... If i use CLAY.. I can make my degradation/dilapidation look INTENTIONAL... if i did this with wood.. it would look like I threw busted up wood at some clay bits.

GREAT question!
 
Also... if you think a little MORE about it.. you realize that once that wood WOULD start to rot... that’s like a bunch of little IVs... transmitting pathogens into your soil.
 
Or nutrients…
I made a small fence and gate out of bamboo chopsticks once. It actually came out pretty good, and the bamboo fibers look like nice straight grain at that scale. It lasted maybe two years before it fell apart. It looked it’s best when stained and rotted right before the end.
min Florida heat and humidity I bet a clay fence will grow algae in the grain cuts and maybe moss and probably lichens all over, and then will age in really well. Maybe if they spend a year or so in a flooded BC pot that might speed up the process.
 
So these fired..

The issue is that I’m having troubles firing my top-shelf evenly..

The main shelf fired Cone 6... but the top just barely started to move the “tip”... so the Barn ruins have a deep color.. whereas the colors on most of the fenceposts didn’t “mature”... (This is an issue I observed heavily, this 12 hour fire.. and believe I can remedy the situation :) )...

But honestly.. I’d like to fire the fenceposts again to balance the colors... but I DID give them the “lick test” and they passed...

What’chu thinkin’ Kanorin.. firing them again is no problem for me.D82070DD-30B0-49F6-AAA3-58199C179C4E.jpeg
 
The hope is to plant this in the spring, so plenty of time still!
I'd say the colors on them don't need to match 100%, but it might be distracting if they are very different. Since you have the eyes on the ground, I'll trust your judgement.
Don't do a separate firing JUST for the fences though...they could wait for your next batch of stuff if that makes sense.
 
I like the idea of apple trees as they would be an authentic thing someone would have planted to have an orchard in a homestead. Also apples (at least old heirloom varieties) live for a long time. We are always stumbling across ancient apple orchards near homesteads where all you can see left is foundations.
 
To keep the leaves in scale with the fence posts and barn I might need to go with a very small-leafed variety of crabapple. Or maybe even cotoneaster might work as an apple stand-in. Does anyone know much about small grasses or grass-like plants (I guess a really hairy moss is an option as well). @Leo in N E Illinois ?
 
Some ideas of scale
Barn next to a dwarf cotoneaster (this variety of cotoneaster might be too small)
IMG-6163.jpg

Barn next to a crabapple seedling (leaves might be too big)
IMG-6166.jpg

Barn next to a Jacqueline Hillier Elm airlayer (Feels about right for leaf size)
IMG-6167.jpg
 
Some ideas of scale
Barn next to a dwarf cotoneaster (this variety of cotoneaster might be too small)
View attachment 406533

Barn next to a crabapple seedling (leaves might be too big)
View attachment 406534

Barn next to a Jacqueline Hillier Elm airlayer (Feels about right for leaf size)
View attachment 406535
very cool. i have a crabapple that looks damn similar to yours i just put a little wire on
it was that size after 1 season
 
I like that one, especially for an apple stand in.

That would be worth growing out for planting in years.

Sorce
That was my thought as well. Definitely has potential! Maybe I can find a cotoneaster that is slightly more upright/tall.

There is a crabapple in the park near me that has a phenomenal shape and character to it.
#inspiration
46866C78-E493-49BD-845F-DD39605CB9E3.jpeg
 
Does anyone know much about small grasses or grass-like plants (I guess a really hairy moss is an option as well).

Look at dwarf spike rush, Eleocharis parvula. At this scale it might look convincing as a tall prairie grass. I grow it as an kusamono or sometimes in the pot with a tree. A Google search will show it mostly as an aquarium plant. . .a very finicky aquarium plant! But in a pot with moist soil
 
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@Kanorin - "Sedges have edges, and all sedges are cool", a quote from one of my prairie restoration nut friends. I'm not well versed in sedges. Genus Eleocharis is a sedge, and it is native to much of North America, it is quite likely winter hardy in Saint Louis area. In all probability the reason Eleocharis fails as an aquarium plant is that it is a full sun plant.

If you have an area that floods part of the year, or a permanent pond or swamp nearby, spend some time gazing at the grasses. You might notice "little grasses" that grow between the more robust grasses. The "little ones" are very likely to be sedges, genus Eleocharis, & Carex. Some might also be rushes, genus Juncus, some species of Juncus are quite dwarf.. It takes expertise beyond my skills to tell one species from another, but the size of the '"little grass" after August is a good clue to what the likely mature size will be.

Better than crawling around on hands and knees, is wandering through Timberwinds Nursery on Clarkson Road, Ellisville MO, just west of Ballwin. We have my parents "incarcerated" at a care facility in Ellisville. (just joking about incarcerated), I hit Timberwinds to regain some sanity after talking with mom, her dementia is fairly advanced. But she is in good shape for a 90 year old. Luckily Dad is as lucid as he was when he was in his 40's. He is also 90, and in excellent health. He does most of the care-taking for Mom. The graduated care facility is quite nice, providing adequate services without treating the residents like infants. They don't let Mom wander away, yet are invisible when Dad has her in tow taking her to my sister's or out for a restaurant or what ever he wants to do.

Tradewinds has a number of varieties of cotoneaster, you might find a better match than the one you deemed too small. They also have a very dwarf Thuja occidentalis, I believe it is 'Piccolo', at first glance it looks like a miniature Hinoki. But its foliage is even smaller than Hinoki 'Nana Gracilis' and it grows slightly faster than the Hinoki.. They have Hinoki too. Tradewinds has more bonsai worthy plants than most nurseries, I think someone on purchasing staff is a garden scale model railroading enthusiast.

Creating your scene is definitely more like model railroading, in that you must get scale to agree across all elements.

For grass, you are close to something between N scale and HO scale, moss would probably be best, the rush or sedges can be used to stand in for wheat or tall un-mowed grass.

For some reason I had forgotten about this resource. Prairie Moon Nursery. They feature Midwest native species for prairie restoration projects, but also for landscaping a back yard. They have an excellent selection of native sedges and rushes, also all manner of forbes (non-woody perenials) and also a fair number of woody shrubs and a handful of trees. Their shipping season is closed, but you can make plans for spring.




@Carol 83 - if you have not gotten to Timberwinds, you should keep it on your "List of Places to Shop". I know it is a 30+ mile hike for you, but if you are doing one of the west Saint Louis County attractions, like Bush Farms or MOBot, you can make it a side trip.
 
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