leatherback
The Treedeemer
You just HAD TO steal my line, did you?That's some awesome materials you got there.
You just HAD TO steal my line, did you?That's some awesome materials you got there.
With this caliber, I don't think one can have too many trees in a year!@Brian Van Fleet-
Good to see that Beech is getting on the radar more and more. They are beautiful trees, and if they are a little bit more demanding in culture they are certainly worth it.
Here is my Kurume Azalea, last tree of the year for me...
etView attachment 172438 View attachment 172439 View attachment 172440 View attachment 172442
Thanks for your input Judy. Not sure that cutting it below the top branches would solve the obvious problem that there is an absence of branching midway up on the left side. However, there is a branch on the back side that I can wire to the left so as to fill in that void in the middle plus there are two buds that have sprouted above the bottom left branch, about 2" up, that will hopefully develop into a suitable side branch to fill that void. As for movement, the trunk is fairly upright and straight so I am leaning strongly towards styling this as a formal upright. the 1/2" branch that I am thinking of using continues that trunk direction. Does this change your opinion?Wow that's a horrible story, hard to imagine coming home to that!
Well since you asked... I would chop the tree just above the lower sets of branches. There is little taper and movement above that, and a long blank spot as well. I know that's not what you're looking for, but would be a better tree in the long term if you did.
I was actually talking about going just above the lowest set of branches to do the chop. But if you want informal or formal upright that won't work so well, I was thinking of a broom from that cut. Take a quick look at my olive thread and you can see how I went from something similar to yours to where it is now. Not saying that you should do this, merely pointing out an optional route. Formal uprights are generally stick straight, so this may not work for that style if you use a side branch for continuation of the trunk. You could go for informal upright and do that.Thanks for your input Judy. Not sure that cutting it below the top branches would solve the obvious problem that there is an absence of branching midway up on the left side. However, there is a branch on the back side that I can wire to the left so as to fill in that void in the middle plus there are two buds that have sprouted above the bottom left branch, about 2" up, that will hopefully develop into a suitable side branch to fill that void. As for movement, the trunk is fairly upright and straight so I am leaning strongly towards styling this as a formal upright. the 1/2" branch that I am thinking of using continues that trunk direction. Does this change your opinion?
I ordered my last tree in December but it won't be shipped tell tomorrow 1/2/18. The ever seemingly unpopular incense cedar. The tree/shrub I got right after Christmas is a total experiment, Rhamnus Frangula
I don't know if I'll be able to turn it into anything but who cares I'll love them just the same.
Awesome!@Brian Van Fleet-
Good to see that Beech is getting on the radar more and more. They are beautiful trees, and if they are a little bit more demanding in culture they are certainly worth it.
Here is my Kurume Azalea, last tree of the year for me...
etView attachment 172438 View attachment 172439 View attachment 172440 View attachment 172442
Yeah, they are an invasive species but because of that they are extremely hardy and cheap technically Junipers are an invasive species around here and people love them as Bonsai haha (yes not necessarily the same species of Juniper)The best treatment for Rhamnus franglais is to chop and treat with 20% gallon 3A. It is considered an invasive species in Illinois, I have been killing them for close to 30 years now.
Wow that's a horrible story, hard to imagine coming home to that!
Well since you asked... I would chop the tree just above the lower sets of branches. There is little taper and movement above that, and a long blank spot as well. I know that's not what you're looking for, but would be a better tree in the long term if you did.
OK, I now understand what you suggested. Never crossed my mind to chop that low. You’ve given me something else to consider. Thank you.I was actually talking about going just above the lowest set of branches to do the chop. But if you want informal or formal upright that won't work so well, I was thinking of a broom from that cut. Take a quick look at my olive thread and you can see how I went from something similar to yours to where it is now. Not saying that you should do this, merely pointing out an optional route. Formal uprights are generally stick straight, so this may not work for that style if you use a side branch for continuation of the trunk. You could go for informal upright and do that.
https://bonsainut.com/threads/help-needed-with-eu-olive-styling.7016/
Agreed.^^^ I really enjoyed working with this species in Florida, it is a natural choice for bonsai.
As you probably know, Molivella, this species is tropical and is sensitive to freezing temperatures, so it will need a setup indoors for a while in North Florida.
I have several tropicals - several ficus, a schefflera, a few bougainvilleas, etc. As soon as we have weather (like now) that even begins to approach 40 degrees, they all go in the greenhouse until April.Agreed.^^^ I really enjoyed working with this species in Florida, it is a natural choice for bonsai.
As you probably know, Molivella, this species is tropical and is sensitive to freezing temperatures, so it will need a setup indoors for a while in North Florida.